• Hi Guest. Welcome to the new forums. All of your posts and personal messages have been migrated. Attachments (i.e. images) and The (Old) Classifieds have been wiped.

    The old forums will be available for a couple of weeks should you wish to grab old images or classifieds listings content. Go Here

    If you have any issues please post about them in the Forum Feedback thread: Go Here

Have I made a mistake? of buying this weapon?

FPS doesn’t mean better. (In short)

Plus, the one you bought has upgrades pre installed, as well as a gate aster. His one doesn’t. Personally I think your choice is far better based on the included upgrades from the edge 2.0 series. 
 

 
FPS doesn’t mean better. (In short)

Plus, the one you bought has upgrades pre installed, as well as a gate aster. His one doesn’t. Personally I think your choice is far better based on the included upgrades from the edge 2.0 series. 
 
Okay, I was also wondering about this "gate aster" stuff. im highly confused, I just brought the gun cause it looks amazing and it works fantastically out of the box.

I don't know anything about this programmable stuff and everything, I'm a bit new to airsoft and I haven't got across to this app.

I downloaded the aster thing, Cant even find it on my computer? 

Sorry for my annoyance.

 
Have you tried them both out in-game?  What is it about the ONE series that you find better then the EDGE 2.0?

You have a great fire control system, and (I believe, pending correction) a better quick-change system. On the EDGE series, you can change the spring just by removing the buffer tube, but on the ONE series, the gearbox needs to come out.

As above, muzzle energy doesn't mean much, as long as you're putting out 1J. Or not even that: there are people with Tokyo Marui guns that cost as much as both of yours put together that shoot at 0.7J.

If you want to get closer to your site limits, you can throw in a stronger spring easily enough thanks to the quick-change system. Although all the usual caveats apply about optimising airseal first.

You haven't made a bad choice, and the ASTER has some nice features. Adding some pre-cock will give you snappy semi-auto response, burst are always fun, and if you run on 11.1V lipo and/or throw in a beefier motor, you'll be glad you've got active braking available.

 
As asked above... what makes it better in your eyes?

Simple things like cleaning the inner barrel & adjusting the hop for the weight of BB's you're using make a big accuracy difference.

As for other suggestions... I'll leave that to those that know more than me (not difficult)

 
As asked above... what makes it better in your eyes?

Simple things like cleaning the inner barrel & adjusting the hop for the weight of BB's you're using make a big accuracy difference.

As for other suggestions... I'll leave that to those that know more than me (not difficult)
The fact that his gun does 410 fps straight out the box, dunno why it really bugs me as mine doesn't do just as well.

 
The fact that his gun does 410 fps straight out the box, dunno why it really bugs me as mine doesn't do just as well.


His gun is doing 410fps?  Unless it's locked to semi auto then it's too hot to use in a skirmish.  He'll have to pull his gearbox apart to change to a lower power spring (not the most fun thing for a new Airsofter)

Assuming yours is doing 300-350fps then you'll be playing and he won't!

(And btw they both look like nice guns, you should both end up enjoying them)

 
Last edited by a moderator:
The fact that his gun does 410 fps straight out the box, dunno why it really bugs me as mine doesn't do just as well.
Unless your mate's gun is locked to semi auto he won't be able to use it anywhere as it's way above any site limit. Hell its above UK legal limits.

Tbh from what I've read here you've made the better choice as DCA are renown for charging stupidly high prices

 
His gun is doing 410fps?  Unless it's locked to semi auto then it's too hot to use in a skirmish.  He'll have to pull his gearbox apart to change to a lower power spring (not the most fun thing for a new Airsofter)

Assuming yours is doing 300-350fps then you'll be playing and he won't!

(And btw they both look like nice guns, you should both end up enjoying them)


His gun is doing 410fps?  Unless it's locked to semi auto then it's too hot to use in a skirmish.  He'll have to pull his gearbox apart to change to a lower power spring (not the most fun thing for a new Airsofter)

Assuming yours is doing 300-350fps then you'll be playing and he won't!

(And btw they both look like nice guns, you should both end up enjoying them)


The fact that his gun does 410 fps straight out the box, dunno why it really bugs me as mine doesn't do just as well.
Okay. What BB's should I be using outside? I don't want my bbs flying away at 0.20, would 0.25g be really good for outdoor and still hold a high fps?

And when I got the gun, they ESPECIALLY advised me not to use 11.1v only use the 7.4v but I've seen people use 11.1vLIPO for this gun.

What would be good to use for now?

 
I was also wondering about this "gate aster
So the gate aster is a “Mosfet”, as you’ve discovered it has some nice features such as binary trigger etc however it doesn’t need messing with at all truthfully. I have 3 “Edge 2.0” series rifles and other than testing the features on one of them, I’ve not had to change anything on it. 
 

In my opinion, the gate aster is one of the nicer mosfets at a good price. As for the app you mentioned, you need to purchase an extra part (either a blu-link for Bluetooth phone editing) or the usb BUT you can adjust the aster settings via the trigger which is done with coloured lights (Far better than say, the Perun Hybrid as I found out earlier today)



 
Okay. What BB's should I be using outside? I don't want my bbs flying away at 0.20, would 0.25g be really good for outdoor and still hold a high fps?
You definitely want something heavier than .2g. I use .28g as I find they give the best compromise between giving me better range and time to target. 

 
Okay. What BB's should I be using outside? I don't want my bbs flying away at 0.20, would 0.25g be really good for outdoor and still hold a high fps


Try 0.25s to start with.  Your gun will be fine.  0.28s will punch through the foliage a bit better if the sites you play at have heavy cover.  I'd be very surprised if it couldn't lift 28s nicely.  No point going heavier.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Okay. What BB's should I be using outside? I don't want my bbs flying away at 0.20, would 0.25g be really good for outdoor and still hold a high fps?


Well, you can go as heavy as it can hop successfully (and your wallet allows, as they get pricey above 0.32g)

You'll only really know that once you try it shooting out past 40m, and can test the different weights.  Any half decent gun should be fine with 0.25g, a good one will do 0.28g.  You'll probably need to upgrade the hop rubber / nub / hop unit to go beyond that.

Yeah, as Cannonfodder and Dan say, 0.28g should be perfectly fine (I've gone through 10kg of Warhead 0.28g BBs and only felt the need to use 0.32s on one particularly windy day)

 
Last edited by a moderator:
The fact that his gun does 410 fps straight out the box, dunno why it really bugs me as mine doesn't do just as well.


Uh, are you in the UK?  If so, what muppet sold him that?  If you're in the UK, then what he's got there is a Section 5 firearm, not an airsoft gun. Any site that knows what it's doing will tell him to put it back in the bag and play with something else, lock it to semi (which I doubt he can do), or go home.

I'd strongly suggest not thinking or talking about fps, because the question then always becomes "using what weight of BB?"  You want to be thinking in Joules, using the weight of ammo that you're going to be using.  I honestly couldn't tell you what fps any of my guns are shooting at, because I only ever look at the Joules number on my chrono (set to the weight of BB that I'm using), and any half decent site will be doing the same.

0.2g is fine for indoors, but outdoors you want the heaviest BB that your hop unit can lift, and your wallet can stand. For a full auto / burst mode gun, I find 0.28g is a decent compromise of price vs performance.  Heavier is just fine, if your hop can lift it.

You're fine to use 11.1V in your gun. If the retailer says otherwise then they're looking for an excuse to void the warranty. But if that's what they want to do, they'll do it whatever you use, or say you used.  If you experience overspin and double-shooting on semi (you pull the trigger once, the gun shoots twice) then you can use the active-brake or pre-cock settings on your ASTER to fix that.

You've bought a perfectly decent gun, and it'll do you proud if you feed and treat it well. As above, clean the barrel (YouTube has plenty of guides), give it 0.25g or heavier, and get the hop dialled in (again, YouTube will help, or ask here).  Your ASTER is great, it's worth the time figuring out its features.

But none of that matters, as long as you're having fun in game. Plenty of us have a blast using the cheapest CYMAs, shotguns, revolvers and such. Airsoft isn't about having the bestest top-tier laser-beast gun, it's about the experience of taking and making hits with whatever you have to hand. Your gun will be as good as anything else out there, once you figure it out - you haven't wasted your money.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
 none of that matters, as long as you're having fun in game. Plenty of us have a blast using the cheapest CYMAs, shotguns, revolvers and such. Airsoft isn't about having the bestest top-tier laser-beast gun, it's about the experience of taking and making hits with whatever you have to hand




1000%.   When talking to rentals looking at everyone's £700 load out I point out that my main pews are my cheapest because they give all the fun with none of the stress of breaking the expensive ones.  The expensive ones are there for looks and not much more.

 
As above. My usual primary is a Galaxy MP5K which cost me £100 and it hasn't left me feeling outgunned by others using guns which cost several times more.

 
My usual primary is a Galaxy MP5K


Huh, why did I not know that?  I'll need to update the personnel records.  Great choice, I honestly think my Galaxy MP5K represents the most fun-per-penny that I've spent right out of the box, and they take uPgRaDeS well too.

 
On 28/10/2023 at 23:29, JinxDuh said:

So the gate aster is a “Mosfet”, as you’ve discovered it has some nice features such as binary trigger etc however it doesn’t need messing with at all truthfully. I have 3 “Edge 2.0” series rifles and other than testing the features on one of them, I’ve not had to change anything on it. 
 

In my opinion, the gate aster is one of the nicer mosfets at a good price. As for the app you mentioned, you need to purchase an extra part (either a blu-link for Bluetooth phone editing) or the usb BUT you can adjust the aster settings via the trigger which is done with coloured lights (Far better than say, the Perun Hybrid as I found out earlier today)

If I wanted to program it from my computer, What would I need to buy? It'll be so much easier if i downloaded the app on the computer and then somehow connect the gun to my pc? if thats how it works.

If I do need to buy something, any links?

 
If I wanted to program it from my computer, What would I need to buy? It'll be so much easier if i downloaded the app on the computer and then somehow connect the gun to my pc? if thats how it works.

If I do need to buy something, any links?


So for USB; https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/gate-usb-link-for-titan-and-aster-equipped-aegs

A lot of people prefer; https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/gate-gate-titan-blu-link which allows via phone

Personally, if I had a need for it I would also go with the blu-link despite the price point. However, doing it through the trigger is very straightforward should you wish to save some pennies.

 
Back
Top