First off, Li-ions, including Titan, are
not suitable for airsoft. They're also incredibly overpriced. They're not suitable because of the extremely low discharge rate compared to LiPos--a lot of their packs are advertised at 5C (5C x 3000mah won't even run an ordinary AEG correctly) but it gets worse. Some packs have been measured at more like 2.8C.
This was tested by an actual electrical engineer with proper equipment in this thread:
https://www.airsoftsociety.com/threads/objective-battery-test-titan-lion-vs-kypom-lipo-vs-hv-lipo-valken-others.161379/
Because of this inadequately low discharge, Li-ions are great as HPA batteries, and for flashlights, but not for airsoft where burst current is demanded time after time.
Battery life is, as stated, subjective to your build and style.
Some of my more conservative friends use more like one 1200mah 25c 7.4v in a day, but I usually run a 2200mah 25C 11.1v, which with my aggressive play style usually gets drained to about halfway to LVC.
You should
not be going through 3-4 1400mah packs. That's a sign of either a really inefficient build, or more likely, really bad packs that are unable to provide the current your gun needs, and are way lower specs than advertised. I had this issue a long while back with four "Crazepony" 1400 mah LiPos, which ran out extraordinarily fast and then puffed.
Higher voltage actually does affect efficiency. This is because high voltage provides higher instantaneous torque, which is important for cycle startup, where the motor suddenly has to pull the spring's weight. So higher voltage actually mitigates some voltage sag on startup.
I do too. But does that mean that well under 10% (and maybe down to 4%) of the energy from the battery is actually making it out the muzzle?
Please check my working:
7.4V x 1.3 Ah x 3600 (seconds in an hour) = 34,682J
If you get 1,300J out of the muzzle (1,300 shots at about 1J per BB), where's the rest of the energy going?
Am I off by an order of magnitude? Have I carried the derp?
You're assuming 1mah per shot, which could easily be untrue, and you're also assuming that the battery is rated correctly and isn't more like 800mah in actuality.
The only real way to calculate this is to setup a baseline test on your build: charge the battery, measure capacity, as well the IR rating to determine if you actually have the stated discharge, and you're not overdrawing the battery, and then shoot 100 times (or whatever number) and measure again.
