• Hi Guest. Welcome to the new forums. All of your posts and personal messages have been migrated. Attachments (i.e. images) and The (Old) Classifieds have been wiped.

    The old forums will be available for a couple of weeks should you wish to grab old images or classifieds listings content. Go Here

    If you have any issues please post about them in the Forum Feedback thread: Go Here

What have you made?

This is great.

I see you printed it on the inside seam facing the bed. I think you should do it the other way. Remove the protruding parts from the side so it can lay flat. The front and back protrusions will still hold it in the shell. This way the ramp will be much cleaner. The spring will probably get stuck in the bends.

And/or you could make the path not just a pill shaped in cross section, but add a cutout where there's overhang. The edges will be printing cleaner.

What I did, was printing the other side on bed and added a raised part instead to create a small, smooth surface. And also because wu-tang.

The compressed spring forces the two sides apart with quite great force and even a small opening can make the BBs stuck. You might even need an other screw in the middle.


Maybe. It does actually have a small flat section in the path. So far there is no catching of the spring. There already are 5 bolts in there, and it so far holds up from the spring with just 2, so with all 5 in it should be good. If I start seeing failures where you mention then I may change that. I have also had serious issues with prints with that much contact with my printbed. V1 was basically a solid block to get the fit right, and I ended having to print it with the top of the mag down after a half-dozen failed prints trying to print it side-down. If someone wants to test the print on that side I can easily send you a modified file, but on my Prusa mk3S I am yet to have that style of print succeed. 

 
Last edited by a moderator:
They said it couldn't be done....

('They' being the voices in my head)

After a lot of prep work looking at the inside and outside of the handguard, and looking at various bits of RIS rail on sale (before settling on one of the simplest ones), I've finally managed to bodge engineer my stubby grip onto my F2000, as per my Battlefield 4 in-game loadout.

View attachment 82747

(I couldn't find a tri-rail that I thought would look the same and that I could actually fit, so had to go for a single rail... but I still wanted the 'hanging off the front of the gun' look)

I'm sort of blowing my own trumpet, perhaps a small one, such as the type often found in Christmas crackers... but it really isn't bodged, it feels absolutely damn solid.   In fact it was so solid that after all the work I did carving out plastic and getting everything 'just so', it actually felt good-to-go without any of the screws and bolts and washers and plates I expected to put in.
I put most of them in anyway and now I can pick up the gun by the front grip without any undue concern.   I wouldn't want to fall on it, or do anything too drastic, but... very pleased with it.

View attachment 84070

Inside the handguard are a couple of chunks of wood which help locate the RIS against some of the internal ribs which I cut / Dremel appropriately.
They're screwed into the handguard.
There's a bolt through the rail and the one of the chunks through to the top of the handguard.  

I actually just used a craft knife to remove most of the plastic, my cheapo Dremel looky-likey just didn't cut it.

Ha ha.  Ho ho...   I'm here all week.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Wanted some wing pouches to add to my chest rig for a radio. Cut a spare triple mag sleeve in half, tidied it up and have ordered some iron-on velcro so it can attach to my rig. May need to stitch the velcro in if the adhesive isn't strong enough. Pretty cheap alternative to buying actual pouches; £6~ for the sleeve and £2~ for the velcro. Not exactly 'made', more cut in half and stuck to something else.

View attachment 83604

View attachment 83605

View attachment 83606

View attachment 83607
Why didn't you just leave the velcro that is already on them? 

 
I've made some 'painting'
It's definitely a step up from the crayons I usually have to eat play with, really rather fun!

View attachment 84148
I smudged a bit around the mag well (on the other side), and maybe there's a couple of other areas that need a bit of re-toning and some texture from the scrim added in, but as my first attempt it was a good learning experience.

All done with Halfords paint (black/khaki/green/brown) as it was easy to grab them on my travels.
Still want a muted red and a near-white to add some extra highlights.

 

 
I've made some 'painting'
It's definitely a step up from the crayons I usually have to eat play with, really rather fun!

View attachment 84148
I smudged a bit around the mag well (on the other side), and maybe there's a couple of other areas that need a bit of re-toning and some texture from the scrim added in, but as my first attempt it was a good learning experience.

All done with Halfords paint (black/khaki/green/brown) as it was easy to grab them on my travels.
Still want a muted red and a near-white to add some extra highlights.

 
Thats pretty good. I find the Halford camo paints are nice and matt without being dusty. Quite hard wearing too IMO

 
I've made some 'painting'
It's definitely a step up from the crayons I usually have to eat play with, really rather fun!

View attachment 84148
I smudged a bit around the mag well (on the other side), and maybe there's a couple of other areas that need a bit of re-toning and some texture from the scrim added in, but as my first attempt it was a good learning experience.

All done with Halfords paint (black/khaki/green/brown) as it was easy to grab them on my travels.
Still want a muted red and a near-white to add some extra highlights.

 
Not a big fan of spray jobs but that looks bloody nice.

 
I found myself in the local Hobbycraft shop, and they stocked some decent satin/matte spray paints at £7.50 a can, so I bought the off-white and dark red to add those highlights.
And like a muppet I decided to rush into trying them out even though it was dark, cold and breezy outside.
The actual extra spray I added was... ok.  Maybe over-egging it a bit. 

But I didn't take enough care to avoid overspray beyond my scrim, so now there's a dusting of white specks over some of the gun which looks a bit crap up close.

View attachment 84217

 
Last edited by a moderator:
But I didn't take enough care to avoid overspray beyond my scrim, so now there's a dusting of white specks over some of the gun which looks a bit crap up close.
Medical alcohol or non-acetone mail varnish remover, but go very careful with the NVR

 
Is medical alcohol the same as vodka? "It's purely medicinal"   ;) :D
 

To be honest, looking at it in the cold light of day (and some strong lamps) there's just too much to get rid of.  I'll have to go over most of the rifle again.    
This is all experimentation before I have a go on the F2000 so no harm done.

Edit:  I did use some hand sanitizer gel and tissue paper, that did sod-all, so I tried some some acetone just to see how easy it would be to strip the rifle back to black.  In fact that showed it was going to take some work, it smeared the paint a little but didn't instantly remove it either.
But this morning I took a brillo pad and a bottle of alcohol foaming sanitiser, and between the rough side of the pad, and the more alcholic foam, it did a great job of gently removing paint - the worst of the speckles have been scrubbed off and still leaving the pattern underneath.   I can now leave the gun as-is, it's good enough to live with.

So thanks again @rocketdogbert  :)

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Back
Top