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What have you made?

Those are some pretty clean looking prints. It's that with the printer completely stock? What's it printed in?


Almost completely stock. Only mod is the yellow bed springs.

I'll be upgrading the hot end to an all-metal jobbie at some point for ABS.

Using PLA (for now). 0.16mm Layer Height. 100% Infill for the rails. Took ages but worth it.

 
ABS is the way to go for airsoft. You can also use a bunch of those foam floor tiles from Halfords to make an enclosure. It helps regulate the temperature of the print which is important for printing abs

 
@Speedbird_666 Very nice matey - 3D printing is one thing I’ve been very tempted getting into but I’m being blocked by the misses with either of the following “it’s too expensive” or “‘it’s just another fad”  and being honest I wouldn’t know where to start with the 3D software (old dog new tricks..)

 
ABS is the way to go for airsoft. You can also use a bunch of those foam floor tiles from Halfords to make an enclosure. It helps regulate the temperature of the print which is important for printing abs


I'm actually using PLA+ which is a bit tougher than normal PLA apparently. I have no clue TBH - it was cheap on Amazon for Prime Day (£12 for a 1KG roll) to get started with. Every print so far has been really good.

Yeh - In future I will be using ABS, but I need a new hot end first. The rear rail is about as big as I would want to go with the material - but with 100% infill it feels tough enough to throw a cheap optic on and if it breaks it wouldn't ruin my day as it's non-structural to the gun itself.

@Speedbird_666 Very nice matey - 3D printing is one thing I’ve been very tempted getting into but I’m being blocked by the misses with either of the following “it’s too expensive” or “‘it’s just another fad”  and being honest I wouldn’t know where to start with the 3D software (old dog new tricks..)


The 'standard' Ender 3 is £120 with free postage from Creality's UK Warehouse (2-3 day shipping), which is a stonking deal. If you are just looking to print (i.e. thingiverse models) then all you need is Cura to slice the models and a couple of YouTube vids to point you in the right direction.

 
Why?

PLA is stronger, just don't leave in the sun in a closed car, which you probably shouldn't do to any guns.
Pla is more brittle. ABS works really well because it flexes so can take hits better, it's easy to sand and paint and you can make very strong larger components by gluing parts together with plastic cement instead of a normal glue which leaves a fracture point. 

 
I agree that it is convenient to glue/smooth with acetone, but this guy is confirming what I've also found when printing ABS for airsoft.



 
Getting the hang of Duplicating masks. My 4TH face protection project; calling this one "Stitch" I guess since I added some extra stitching under the eyes.

View attachment 75588

Paint Job isn't finished yet but it's getting there.

View attachment 75594

Went for a more neat strap system similar to a ballistic face mask with some Eva foam padding.

Also Mesh protected Nose area.

View attachment 75597

For my next Face-Pro project I'm gonna actually try a @MiK and Sculpt my own Skull mask from scratch. I'll use the same measurements as my current ones since these are built perfectly and there is zero obstruction when looking down any sight on a rifle. 

View attachment 75599

 
3 hours ago, Samurai said:

I agree that it is convenient to glue/smooth with acetone, but this guy is confirming what I've also found when printing ABS for airsoft.

Interesting. I'll talk to my dad about it as he's the one who has the printers

 
surprisingly took 3 attempts to get such a simple model to work right. Now I can print off PTW magazine followers whenever I want as they have a tendency to disappear.

View attachment 75628

View attachment 75629

and in the quest for fog free glasses my next mad invention is 2 magnets with glass cleaning cloth stuck to one side. magnet-lenses-magnet and wipe the condensation away (a bit like cleaning algae from a fish tank).

View attachment 75630

 
Great work all round. I'm starting to get performance anxiety about my gobs of hot melt glue and Poundland rattle can black now. :D  

 
Mark II Goggle fan mount with integrated on/off switch.

View attachment 75651

Tested fitted - just need to solder up a switch - and find some black screws.

Next step - goggle strap mounted battery enclosure.


I really need to get a 3D printer but I might miss making shit with my hands - those resin printers look sexy tho……

@mightyjebus I might “if” I was you and since you seem to have a 3D printer* I would serious think about encasing those rare earth magnets with a case of some sort cuss when they get a sharp shock they have been known to shatter - think of your eyes buddy :)

*as I don’t currently have one I would use some Sugru just to stop anything coming away.

 
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Great work all round. I'm starting to get performance anxiety about my gobs of hot melt glue and Poundland rattle can black now. :D  
Armature. No finess. Lol?

The pound land black is great though?done our birdbath with it 20 times now. Doh! Wait a minute....

Regards 

 
I really need to get a 3D printer but I might miss making shit with my hands - those resin printers look sexy tho……

@mightyjebus I might “if” I was you and since you seem to have a 3D printer* I would serious think about encasing those rare earth magnets with a case of some sort cuss when they get a sharp shock they have been known to shatter - think of your eyes buddy :)

*as I don’t currently have one I would use some Sugru just to stop anything coming away.
yeah I had the same idea..either print something or wrap them in Sugru as I have a load of black packets here not getting used.

 
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