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Quick Questions & Simple Answers.

Not with an airsoft gun, no. In fact the main problem you'll have threading it through webbing is bending it when you move about.
I think I should be okay. The vest I use is pretty solid and it's up on my chest where it's mounted. Fingers crossed

 
so thinking of getting a TM MK23....have chatted to Jedi about this and 'holsters' and he has mentioned one i like the look of

curious if anyone else has any suggestions for a holster for the MK23?.....so i don't do a 'sand job' to it like the IMI one i have for the glock!  :lol:

 
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so thinking of getting a TM MK23....have chatted to Jedi about this and 'holsters' and he has mentioned one i like the look of

curious if anyone else has any suggestions for a holster for the MK23?.....so i don't do a 'sand job' to it like the IMI one i have for the glock!  :lol:
DTD holster is amazing. It’s physically impossible to have a faster draw. Retention is 100% with no play and because of how it locks onto the gun you’re never going to get an “accidental discharge” despite the open nature of it 

 
DTD holster is amazing. It’s physically impossible to have a faster draw. Retention is 100% with no play and because of how it locks onto the gun you’re never going to get an “accidental discharge” despite the open nature of it 


yeah thats the one Jedi mentioned :)

 
The only thing to consider is because it’s exposed, be mindful of its position on your belt. Too far forward (to which I don’t see anyone realistically doing) and you could damage the gun if you were to go prone/ roll around like a ninja lol

 
The only thing to consider is because it’s exposed, be mindful of its position on your belt. Too far forward (to which I don’t see anyone realistically doing) and you could damage the gun if you were to go prone/ roll around like a ninja lol
thanks for that

roll around....yeah that wont happen with me!  :lol:

 
so thinking of getting a TM MK23....have chatted to Jedi about this and 'holsters' and he has mentioned one i like the look of

curious if anyone else has any suggestions for a holster for the MK23?.....so i don't do a 'sand job' to it like the IMI one i have for the glock!  :lol:
You saw me and my DTD at tuddenham, can honestly say it’s perfect. There are others, but they are not as good in my eyes.

 
i did indeed!....tbh Larry was more of a draw!!!

cool, seems the way to go, just need to sort it out  :lol:

 
Currently have a NiMH 1600 7.4 battery but struggling to get it inside the MOE guard so good as any reason to upgrade to a Lipo. My question is will a 8.4 1300 Lipo be adequate for my JG M4 mutant stepson?

 
i have never seen an 8.4v lipo but a 7.4v lipo is equivalent to a 9.6v nicad

 
Currently have a NiMH 1600 7.4 battery but struggling to get it inside the MOE guard so good as any reason to upgrade to a Lipo. My question is will a 8.4 1300 Lipo be adequate for my JG M4 mutant stepson?
A 7.4V Lipo will be more than adequate for your JG.

 
Can you set of a MK5 Thunderflash by shooting it? I want to thread mine through the webbing but I don't know if it's safe.
No problem, I’ve done it many times on molle

On a ‘safety’ basis they are better off threaded onto your webbing or vest the possibly in pouches and Definately better than in pockets

Its pretty obvious when they spark off so you have the chance of escaping by ripping it out of webbing or dropping your kit

They will be at risk of bending and breaking, but the worst I have had is to remove the striker.

When I was using lots of friction grenades I would also have a friction cap stuck to my belt and a lighter in my pocket.  If you haven’t kept hold of a striker then use your next one to strike it 

I prefer ringpulls now (obviously not flashbangs)

 
As above, though the Molle is the way to go. It can’t be lit for 2 reasons. One because the striker is the lid, protecting the fuse, but also the friction ignition is actually a chemical reaction between what’s on the fuse/what’s on the striker (phosphorus I believe) +heat from friction. The only way I could possibly see you having an accidental bang would be perhaps if someone threw pyro at you, and it exploded on an uncapped pyro on your molle. I’d argue that you’d have a better chance of winning the lottery. 

Keeping a striker on string/zip tie on your molle is also a good idea, as well as a lighter. I use one of those rechargeable arc lighters. It can be absolutely pissing down and it will reliably light. 

 
Erm, I remember reading/hearing somewhere that each mah was roughly equivalent to a shot. 

I do know you don’t want a 5500mah, you can ask me how i know, but the guns still in a melted mess somewhere.

Something between 2000-3000Mah would last you all day if you don’t use the party button.

What mAh should I be looking at? Higher the better?

 
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Does anyone know of any good Indoor CQB in or around Bedfordshire?!?! I cant seem to find any. The closest one I’ve found is in Leicester I just wondered if there anywhere a bit closer!

 
I have looked on some sort of airsoft directory and can only find outdoor skirmish 

 
Erm, I remember reading/hearing somewhere that each mah was roughly equivalent to a shot. 

I do know you don’t want a 5500mah, you can ask me how i know, but the guns still in a melted mess somewhere.

Something between 2000-3000Mah would last you all day if you don’t use the party button.


2000-3000mAh probably won't fit in your handguard.

You want to look for a split pack so that both halves are fairly thin something like this is probably the biggest you could go to https://www.componentshop.co.uk/7-4v-2000mah-20c-continuous-discharge-airsoft-lipo-split-pack.html 

That said a 1400mAh has lasted me all day just fine. If you're at the Mall you won't be using auto anyway so you should be fine.

 
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Can a nozzle return spring be too strong? - "180%" nozzle return spring in stock gold match?

@Marc.RG1

 
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