Active braking "can" generate a little more heat (certainly don't make the motor run cooler)
normal fets are negative or npn - triggers the negative supply on/off
with active an additional positive fet (pnp) is used to reverse polarity to stop motor as said above
In most "general" builds and if a high speed/torque motor is used then it probably will be ok without AB
Most high speed/torque motors use neodym magnets (silver)
as opposed to cheapo stock ferrite magnets (black)
Neodym magnets are MUCH stronger than ferrite - if you can turn a motor over easily that is a ferrite
a neodym is very hard to turn like stepper motors, these stronger neodym motors stop much quicker
than ferrite motors that roll on & on when power is cut.
So if using a stronger neodym motor you "may" not need to use active braking unless you are running
a higher speed setup or DSG
Using older ferrite motor and higher volts then you may find you need AB but that is if the old stock motor
will be up to the job and if it can take any extra stress using AB fet.
Me thinks most will upgrade motor to neodym so AB probably won't be needed unless you are going nutz
If you are fitting the usual "external" mosfet then you can just do the main rewire on the switch/motor leads
try a normal non-braking fet that should be fine for most setups - if it does over run or double fire then it is
very straight forward to replace the NB fet with an Active Braking fet is my humble noobish opinion
Soldering - there was a couple of threads on soldering deans and stuff a week or two ago with a vid also
most soldering is a lot down to using decent iron,solder & perhaps flux plus a bit of practice
not hard but like most stuff the more you do it the better you get (usually)
deans thread:
http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/24451-what-deans-plugs-do-you-use/
There a number of ways to wire it all in, v2 gearbox's are a little more awkward than v3 as motor wires on v2
are inside box and if rear wired you have extra wire(s) running by motor spindle but you can run signal wire(s)
externally if you are careful. When using thicker 16awg motor wire space gets tight inside a v2 where as v3 motor
wires are external so to speak.
It is not that hard if you can solder ok - all down to using decent stuff + practice and then add a little common sense