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Gate NanoHARD in M249

  • Thread starter Thread starter JinxDuh
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JinxDuh

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Am I correct in thinking that I wire the trigger contact to the mosfet and that’s basically it, or is there more to it? Manuals a bit wank and there’s nothing I can find for m249’s specifically. 

When I say m249, I mean an actual m249 gearbox not the v2 gearbox in a shell by the way ?

 
Second pic down on Page 9 of the manual, red and black to the motor, the two wire thin black stuff goes to the two sides of the trigger switch. Job jobbed.

Make sure you get the right two terminals on the switch though. Otherwise you'll be pulling the trigger to STOP  it firing!

 
Have a look at the pic here. May be helpful.

Edited - Actually, probably not helpful if you're talking about wiring to the microswitch, because I don't have a picture of that. I think from memory that's just the bottom two contacts to wire to, but may vary depending on your switch. Fairly easy to test...

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I think from memory that's just the bottom two contacts to wire to, but may vary depending on your switch. Fairly easy to test...


To be fair it will be the two contacts that are currently wired. Regardless of what switch it is.

 
Got the mosfet in, happy days!!!

However…

The airsoft pro hop up is pushing the black adjuster ring off after a few shots, every time. Did I get a lemon? ?

View attachment 129890

 
So the hop up is working, ish… it’s firing fine then after about 5 shots, I’ll get 3 bb’s fly out at every angle all at once. Any ideas? ?

 
I took the metal feed lip part out and lined it up with the hop in the correct spot, but my gearbox is firing by itself as soon as the outer barrel is put on.

It’s all fun and games ?

 
Probably just a case of backing off the grub screw on the trigger a bit, or cutting down/bending the microswitch arm, if you haven't already done that (because the unadjusted ones seem to inevitably get sucked into the gears at some point and make it into a runaway gun).

 
Probably just a case of backing off the grub screw on the trigger a bit, or cutting down/bending the microswitch arm, if you haven't already done that (because the unadjusted ones seem to inevitably get sucked into the gears at some point and make it into a runaway gun).


This is the last cause, and does seem to be the issue. However, for some reason it's gone really floppy so I'm looking now to buy a new one to replace

 
From memory, they can be a bit loose, but it doesn't really matter, as long as they're engaging properly. It's just a question of striking the balance between trigger responsiveness and accidental actuation.

I have found the easiest way to adjust it is to build the gearbox in gun, etc and then take the rear lower stock pin out. This usually allows you to pivot the pistol grip/trigger mech from the front pin and adjust until you're happy with it, by bending arm/moving the trigger grubscrew in and out. The advantage to doing it this way is that you can hear/feel the microswitch actuating (make sure the battery is out before you start all this!) if you've done it too tight.

I also find it worth backing off just a little anyway, because there can be a bit of flex in the fittings and if you've got it adjusted too finely you can end up firing when you lift the gun using just the pistol grip, because the weight pushes the pistol grip/trigger assembly up into the main body just a hair.

 
Original switch at the top, new switch at the bottom. 
 

I’m assuming I just bend the metal to the same rough shape, but is there any sort of guidelines?

View attachment 130212

Upon inspection/fitting, the arm touches the cog so I’ve cut it down to where it should be okay

 
Update:

Cut the bar, bent it to a good position, did the trigger Allen bolt all the way up (So it sits as low as possible) and it worked first time. Absolutely buzzing ?

 
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