What deans plugs do you use?
- Thread starter ikarma70
- Start date
geoffreym
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- Dec 7, 2009
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It is literally practice, first dozen or so were crap, now they're indistinguishable from store bought batteries (except for when I forget the heat shrink and electrical tape instead).
You might want to check the soldering iron your using is getting hot enough as well (the solder should tin the end as soon as touch it).
I believe XT60's use friction instead of solder though (certification required).
You might want to check the soldering iron your using is getting hot enough as well (the solder should tin the end as soon as touch it).
I believe XT60's use friction instead of solder though (certification required).
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Sitting Duck
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- May 11, 2014
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or using ultra high melt temp solder from poundland no flux etc.......
(yeah that cheapo welding solder is not good - time that melts everything is too)
decent solder + flux makes a massive difference - really helps
years ago I wrecked a couple of consoles using bad cheapo soldering stuff
kinda welded bits together, melted bits and components just coming off
At a push when soldering connectors - push both halves together
then tape the block firmly to table if you don't have any "helping hands" device
The two halves helps to keep each other straight & aligned
when doing tiny little pcb connectors there is a risk of the tiny pins getting too hot and melting out of alignment
Tin the ends of connector - if solder not taking and/or no flux paste then scratch/key the contact
to give the area a chance for solder to take - wire & deans tinned - it will then stick like $hit to a blanket
Always cut & solder 1 wire at time - cut both and BANG you may get a shock & dead lipo
Decent iron (say 25w), solder, flux really helps - you don't need more than a 30w unless you like welding
the rest is technique and setup - practice on an old pcb if doing internal electronics...
(the above would of saved me a lot of stress & mistakes - but all part of learning "fun")
LOL - typed most of the above but just watch vid and same sorta thing
well except screw heatgun & just use a lighter at end on heatshrink
he used a 40w iron but I only got one general type which kind of does me ok
(he has lower fine tip one and workshop etc...)
same sort thing - we all use slightly different techniques/methods
some find they don't really need flux but many will say it really helps and use it anyway
to each their own as they say
If you have a choice look out for some "ribbed" deans connectors
tiny little ribs that will help if changing battery quickly when you wearing gloves or sweaty hands etc...
yup think that is about it from me on this
(yeah that cheapo welding solder is not good - time that melts everything is too)
decent solder + flux makes a massive difference - really helps
years ago I wrecked a couple of consoles using bad cheapo soldering stuff
kinda welded bits together, melted bits and components just coming off
At a push when soldering connectors - push both halves together
then tape the block firmly to table if you don't have any "helping hands" device
The two halves helps to keep each other straight & aligned
when doing tiny little pcb connectors there is a risk of the tiny pins getting too hot and melting out of alignment
Tin the ends of connector - if solder not taking and/or no flux paste then scratch/key the contact
to give the area a chance for solder to take - wire & deans tinned - it will then stick like $hit to a blanket
Always cut & solder 1 wire at time - cut both and BANG you may get a shock & dead lipo
Decent iron (say 25w), solder, flux really helps - you don't need more than a 30w unless you like welding
the rest is technique and setup - practice on an old pcb if doing internal electronics...
(the above would of saved me a lot of stress & mistakes - but all part of learning "fun")
LOL - typed most of the above but just watch vid and same sorta thing
well except screw heatgun & just use a lighter at end on heatshrink
he used a 40w iron but I only got one general type which kind of does me ok
(he has lower fine tip one and workshop etc...)
same sort thing - we all use slightly different techniques/methods
some find they don't really need flux but many will say it really helps and use it anyway
to each their own as they say
If you have a choice look out for some "ribbed" deans connectors
tiny little ribs that will help if changing battery quickly when you wearing gloves or sweaty hands etc...
yup think that is about it from me on this
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Ian_Gere
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- Apr 1, 2012
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Good video - i usually use the crocodile clips of a helping hands to grip the other side of the pin i'm soldering, which then acts as a heat sink, but i'm going to start doing it his way. Notice that he didn't actually do it as, probably, all of us were taught, ie heat the component then let the solder melt onto it, not apply the solder to the iron. There was already a bit of solder on each pin and he did just heat that until it melted and apply the solder to the iron and molten solder simultaneously. That's how I do it, but of course you need to get some solder on there to begin with - I use a tin of the most hideous flux (I have to keep it wrapped in tissue because the oil in it migrates out through the gap between lid and round tin, even though it is fitted very tight) - just a dab on each pin so it boils and cleans the surface when the pin is heated, then i apply the solder simultaneously to the tip of the iron and hot pin and the boiling flux allows the molten solder to flow over the pin and form a nice shiny joint.
