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THE TM MWS thread

Those findings are very interesting. I have no way of doing any controlled testing at measured ranges beyond about 55-60m (I use 50m as a nice standard range, makes some of the maths I do easier). During lockdown it’s more like 20m ?.

I’d say I can get a good clean torso hit out to well beyond 75m, but I have no means to verify or test with multiple barrels as I’m usually at a skirmish. I may have to invest in a range finder then at least I can accurately verify shot distance at skirmishes (I assume walking towards someone you have just shot with a surveyors tape measure would not go down well ?).

 
Haha! Yeh "wait a minute where you are" walks over with a surveyors trundle wheel ?

 
On this, i have a c&c 13.5 bcm mcmr clone and for the life of me I cant fix the wobble, and its more than just a little, the movement is very noticeable. Ive tried shims, various different outer barrel combinations to no affect whatsoever. Can you tell me more about these fixing cross bolts? Its a real pity because the rail itself is fantastic imho.


 I too had the exact same issue! Annoying AF. I initially patched it by wrapping the barrel nut in some tape so it would fit snug with both the handrail and cross-bolts, but that was a short lived fix. The wobble returned and wore away at the tape after a hundred or so rounds ? Im sure some of the licensed/practiced gun-smiths could probably provide a better quick-fix solution for this. The best fix I found was to replace the cross-bolts with ones from a real-steal BCM, as they are a LOT thicker. I ordered mine direct from the states a while back, but you can get them from BCM (US) or in the KRM install kit from Brownells (UK).

https://bravocompanyusa.com/bcm-kmr-cross-bolts-kit-set-of-2

https://www.brownells.co.uk/BCM-KRM-HANDGUARD-INSTALLATION-KIT

 On another note. Was testing out my Ace1Arms Pmags [they really quiet good IMO] only to have my AngryGun MPA nozzle spring fire out of the barrel ? Anyone know where I can get a spare for this rather than buying a whole new Nozzle?

 
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 I too had the exact same issue! Annoying AF. I initially patched it by wrapping the barrel nut in some tape so it would fit snug with both the handrail and cross-bolts, but that was a short lived fix. The wobble returned and wore away at the tape after a hundred or so rounds ? Im sure some of the licensed/practiced gun-smiths could probably provide a better quick-fix solution for this. The best fix I found was to replace the cross-bolts with ones from a real-steal BCM rail order direct from the states, as they are a LOT thicker. You can get them direct from BCM (US) or in the KRM install kit from Brownells

https://bravocompanyusa.com/bcm-kmr-cross-bolts-kit-set-of-2

https://www.brownells.co.uk/BCM-KRM-HANDGUARD-INSTALLATION-KIT

 On another note. Was testing out my Ace1Arms Pmags [they really quiet good IMO] only to have my AngryGun MPA nozzle spring fire out of the barrel ? Anyone know where I can get a spare for this rather than buying a whole new Nozzle?


Hello , You need similar Allen M3*6

https://www.amazon.es/QLOUNI-Tornillos-Prisioneros-Hexagonal-Inoxidable/dp/B0778YW5XJ/ref=sr_1_5?__mk_es_ES=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&dchild=1&keywords=prisionero+allen&qid=1588412365&sr=8-5

 
 On another note. Was testing out my Ace1Arms Pmags [they really quiet good IMO] only to have my AngryGun MPA nozzle spring fire out of the barrel ? Anyone know where I can get a spare for this rather than buying a whole new Nozzle?
Put a dab of low strength Loctite on it before installing and wait 24hrs before adjusting. Should stop it rattling lose in future.

 
Is there no knowledge about the tokyo arms outer barrel? Is it a good fit? Do i still need the adapter to attach aftermarket rails?

https://www.powair6.com/en/gbb-parts/6238-tokyo-arms-multi-length-cnc-outer-barrel-for-tokyo-marui-m4-mws-black.html
The only review on that page says that the ring is too big to fir through the handguard and there is no hole for the screw to hold it together (translation thanks to Google!) Would be good to hear some real-world reviews of users on here before ordering from overseas and the issues around returning it should it turn out to be pants.

 
The only review on that page says that the ring is too big to fir through the handguard and there is no hole for the screw to hold it together (translation thanks to Google!) Would be good to hear some real-world reviews of users on here before ordering from overseas and the issues around returning it should it turn out to be pants.
Yeah thats the thing, i really want a 10.5  barrel, and they seem hard to find. Except this tokyo arms that are in stock everywhere

 
 I too had the exact same issue! Annoying AF. I initially patched it by wrapping the barrel nut in some tape so it would fit snug with both the handrail and cross-bolts, but that was a short lived fix. The wobble returned and wore away at the tape after a hundred or so rounds ? Im sure some of the licensed/practiced gun-smiths could probably provide a better quick-fix solution for this. The best fix I found was to replace the cross-bolts with ones from a real-steal BCM, as they are a LOT thicker. I ordered mine direct from the states a while back, but you can get them from BCM (US) or in the KRM install kit from Brownells (UK).

https://bravocompanyusa.com/bcm-kmr-cross-bolts-kit-set-of-2

https://www.brownells.co.uk/BCM-KRM-HANDGUARD-INSTALLATION-KIT
thanks a million for the reply. Did getting that kit completely solve the wobble? I need new cross bolts anyway because the c&c ones I have are now almost worn out with the constant tampering. So unbelievably frustrating. Almost 70 quid for that kit isn’t cheap but if they work I’ll pay it. Had seen them myself but was doubtful whether they were compatible with the replica rail.

 
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Many thanks to those who assisted me in my MTR16 G-Edition DMR quest.

So having perused Google based on your suggestions i have made the following decisions.

Inner Barrel - I ummed and arghed about this between going for a Maple Leaf Crazy Jet 370mm and a Prometheus 6.03mm 370mm inner barrel. In the end i decided on the Prometheus 6.03mm 370mm barrel, my rationale for this was that it is only slightly tighter than the stock and the length meant that i could keep the original muzzle flash hider. Plus i have only heard good things about Prometheus. In an ideal world if money was no object or i could find one in stock (UK Side) i would have been happy to buy the a PDI or EdGI barrel too.

https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/prometheus-603mm-eg-inner-barrel-for-m4a1-mws-370mm

Nub - Whilst i understand that everyone loves the SixG nub, that its well made and precise, i think i could probably get away with the Laylax hop arm. I dont plan in shooting higher than 0.40g BBs, plus i already havethe Laylax one at home now rather than have to wait for the SixG one to be made. Perhaps further down the line i might order two, one for my TM M4 MWS and the other for this MTR16.

https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/first-factory-strike-hop-arm-for-marui-m4a1-mws

NPAS - So in my quest to find an adjustable NPAS system, i knew of the RA-Tech one but discovered that G&P also made an adjustable one too but had 4 different colours and numbers: Red 5, Gold 4.5, Blue 4 and Green 3.5. With no information on a) how they work and b) what was the power output of each one i decided to give them a miss. My only understanding was that Red was the strongest output with a 5mm opening, and downwards. In the end i stuck with RA-Tech and managed to source an NPAS valve.

http://emperionstore.com/npas-kit-for-tokyo-marui-mws-gbb-ra-tech.html

My plans are to install both the inner barrel and Laylax arm first, see how she shoots in terms of FPS, then put the NPAS in.

So any glaring errors???

 
Glad you went Prommy, for I while there I thought you were going to go Crazy.

Some like them but in testing I did not.

Before you get super excited and throw all your packaging away; roll the barrel on a flat surface and check it's true/straight.

Also inspect the crown/barrel exit for any little burrs.

95% of the time Prommy are bang on but sometimes there's the odd lemon ;)

 
Did getting that kit completely solve the wobble? I need new cross bolts anyway because the c&c ones I have are now almost worn out with the constant tampering. So unbelievably frustrating. Almost 70 quid for that kit isn’t cheap but if they work I’ll pay it. Had seen them myself but was doubtful whether they were compatible with the replica rail.


 I was in the same boat, but much to my surprise they did indeed removed ALL the wobble. The cross-bolts are a lot thicker than the one that comes with the clone rails. Although I initially didn't think it was going to work, they did fit very snuggly into the gap on the barrel nut. Would also recommend using some kind of lubricant to prevent any sheering as it is a pretty tight fit. 

 Anyone had any experiences [good or bad] buying direct from ruten.com.tw? Found a TR-25 Accupoint scope [clone] from modelworks615, but hesitant to sink that much money as never used them or that platform before ?Still, a ton cheaper than a real one!

 
 I was in the same boat, but much to my surprise they did indeed removed ALL the wobble. The cross-bolts are a lot thicker than the one that comes with the clone rails. Although I initially didn't think it was going to work, they did fit very snuggly into the gap on the barrel nut. Would also recommend using some kind of lubricant to prevent any sheering as it is a pretty tight fit. 

 Anyone had any experiences [good or bad] buying direct from ruten.com.tw? Found a TR-25 Accupoint scope [clone] from modelworks615, but hesitant to sink that much money as never used them or that platform before ?Still, a ton cheaper than a real one!
As far as optics go, never waste your time with repro optics.  Get a holosun or vortex optic.  Once you do it you'll wonder why you didn't do it sooner, especially when you're talking about low power variables...

The vortex strike eagle is excellent for the money and has a lifetime warranty.  It's about €300 or so.

 
Sorry for hijacking this thread with my photobombs but I got my Madbull RIS II FSP rail cerakoted and picked it up today, looks absolutely stunning if I say so myself! It's for my 2nd MWS build, Block II FSP replica. Unfortunately I still do not have my FDE stock yet, last part I am missing for the build. Anyways, here are some pictures of my rail getting Cerakoted, was a black rail to start with but forgot to take pictures of it :)

View attachment 56970

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Does anyone know of base plates for STANAG MWS mags to help protect them from dropping and to add a bit of a ledge to help drawing them? The only thing I'm aware of that people have been using are the classic rubber magpuls, but I'm looking for a bit more of a modern take.

Something like this would be awesome: https://tangodown.com/mag-cap-protective-usgi-magazine-floor-plate-3-pack/.  Any 3D printer wizards out there looking to make a buck? 

 
Nice, which Cerakote'ers are you using?
Considering I am based in The Netherlands I had it done by Camogun. Must say, even though for the majority of this forum it's not really useful information, but they are great. Was my first time Cerakoting and my first experience with them and they've been sound. Mailed back and forth to decide on a color, decided to send the rail in via the post and a few days later
I was bombarded with these great pictures. Picked it up a few days after and had a nice chat with one of the owners who explained all the options they had for Cerakoting so all in all, I can really recommend them!

 
Hi guys,

I am new to this forum. I have a question regarding g & g adjustable trigger box. I recently purchased the trigger box but ran into issues. No matter what I do, I run into sticky trigger problem. After firing, and the bolt cycles, my trigger won’t reset properly. It seems when I release the trigger after firing, the adjustable trigger sear is still caught on the hammer. I have to manually push my trigger bar forward to disengage it, and I can squeeze the trigger again. I am wondering if anyone else ran into this problem and was able to solve it?

Thank you 

 
Finally! My first mws and wow it feels so good and solid. Im thinking about making a mk4 federal build ? 

I will probaly leave the inside stock for now, but want to able to adjust the fps? Should i look for a NPAS and upgrade the nozzle spring or should i go with the angry gun mpa nozzle?

View attachment 57034

 
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