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THE TM MWS thread
- Thread starter Wo1f
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #22
I love mine too. It’s very satisfying to get a kill with such limited capacity, and nothing is better than engaging targets at range knowing they cannot hit you back lol.
This thread is for all things mws, so post anything you like. Get pictures of your pride and joy up, tell us about what mods you like or didn’t or any other cool stuff. Even news on the mws type 89. If it takes an mws mag, I wanna hear about it!
Gonna upload the pictures when I get in and do a maintenance write up.
This thread is for all things mws, so post anything you like. Get pictures of your pride and joy up, tell us about what mods you like or didn’t or any other cool stuff. Even news on the mws type 89. If it takes an mws mag, I wanna hear about it!
Gonna upload the pictures when I get in and do a maintenance write up.
sonofsammo
Members
- Feb 3, 2018
- 1,447
- 435
- Thread starter
- #24
Maintenance:
Now before i get into what i do, id like to point out that how i do it and what i use are not the only way of doing things. People use all sorts of different oils, grease and sprays to get the job done. As long as it's suitable for the job, all is well.
Items:
Wurth High performance dry chain lube (Teflon/ptfe spray)
Wurth brake and chain cleaner
Airsoft Engenuity cleaning rod
Silicone oil
paper towels
Step 1:
Remove the magazine and split the upper and lower by popping out the body pins. From there, remove the charging handle and bolt carrier group.
Using the paper towel, wipe them down properly, including the channel on the underside of the charging handle. This is what mine looks like after one game day and a bit of testing.
Step 2:
With the moving parts cleaned, we need to move onto the upper receiver. There is no point cleaning the moving parts if the walls they're sliding against are still dirty, so wipe down the inner walls of the upper receiver as well as the grove that the charging handle runs in.
Step 3:
We're going to finish off the cleaning of the upper by cleaning the barrel. I use an Airsoft Engenuity Optirod because it holds cue tips at a slight angle instead of cutting little strips of tissue, but any will work just fine.
I go in from the muzzle end and stop before the hop up so i don't disturb it or damage it in any way. Because i use propane, i don't get silicone oil or other crap all over the hop rubber. If you do, take a cue tip and gently push it inside and twist. you don't want to apply any sort of pressure because you're at risk of rotating the rubber ever so slightly or damaging it.
Step 4:
Moving on to the lower.. I have two processes that i do to the lower. One after every game, and one after every 5. The only difference is on the 5th clean i spray out the lower with brake/chain/carb cleaner. Because of how tight everything is packed in to the MWS trigger box its hard to completely clean it without removing it from the lower. with carb cleaner it will blast out all of the deposits and degrease the trigger mech completely. what will happen is the spray will run into the gaps and drip out of the trigger hole in the bottom of the lower. The spray evaporates in the air, so after about 30 seconds it will be bone dry, leaving behind a clear trigger box. For the daily clean, i just wipe down all visible surfaces with a cloth/ paper towel. In order to keep a reliable bolt lock, push the bolt release and clean the faces of the ZET plate when it lifts up. if you get crap between there, it can slow and not lock back reliably. Especially running green gas, which cycles the gun faster.
Step 5:
Everything is now clean, so we can start with the lube. There's lots of options out there but one thing that's important is this... SILICONE OIL IS NOT FOR METAL ON METAL PARTS. over time, silicone oil will make metal bind and is the exact opposite of what we want to do. Silicone oil is important, but only for sealing components. I use Wurth dry chain spray for 2 reasons. If it can lubricate and stand up to the temperatures of chain/sprocket contact on a 200mph motorbike, it will do just fine on our bolt moving 8" forward and back. The other reason is it isn't messy. it dries in the air and leaves a light film on the surface so it isn't going to get thrown around the inside of the gun. so give it a good spray and give it a few seconds to dry.
Step 6:
Back to the lower.. If you're using a spray like me, put your finger over the hop up entrance in the lower receiver and give the inside a quick spray with the lube. YOU DO NOT WANT ANY LUBE OR ANYTHING ELSE ON THE HOP RUBBER. If you're using a grease or oil, this is less of an issue (until you fire the gun and it throws it all in there anyway)
Step 7:
Spray your BCG and charging handle with lube. Pretty self explanatory so i didn't bother with a picture. What i do is hold the bolt by the nozzle with my thumb covering the underside of the nozzle. this stops any lube going into the nozzle chamber.
Step 8:
Last thing to do is lubricate the sealing parts with silicone oil. This step is only really needed if you use propane, as green gas should keep the sealing cup on the nozzle adequately lubed and i do this every 5 games. Pull the nozzle out and place a couple of drops of silicone oil between the nozzle and the BCG. On WE guns you can pull the nozzle out far enough to apple lube directly to the o ring, but you cant on an MWS without removing the nozzle, so this is as good as you can get. Like i said though, if you're using green gas, this shouldn't need to be done often.
Step 9:
Put it all back together because you're done!
Now before i get into what i do, id like to point out that how i do it and what i use are not the only way of doing things. People use all sorts of different oils, grease and sprays to get the job done. As long as it's suitable for the job, all is well.
Items:
Wurth High performance dry chain lube (Teflon/ptfe spray)
Wurth brake and chain cleaner
Airsoft Engenuity cleaning rod
Silicone oil
paper towels
Step 1:
Remove the magazine and split the upper and lower by popping out the body pins. From there, remove the charging handle and bolt carrier group.
Using the paper towel, wipe them down properly, including the channel on the underside of the charging handle. This is what mine looks like after one game day and a bit of testing.
Step 2:
With the moving parts cleaned, we need to move onto the upper receiver. There is no point cleaning the moving parts if the walls they're sliding against are still dirty, so wipe down the inner walls of the upper receiver as well as the grove that the charging handle runs in.
Step 3:
We're going to finish off the cleaning of the upper by cleaning the barrel. I use an Airsoft Engenuity Optirod because it holds cue tips at a slight angle instead of cutting little strips of tissue, but any will work just fine.
I go in from the muzzle end and stop before the hop up so i don't disturb it or damage it in any way. Because i use propane, i don't get silicone oil or other crap all over the hop rubber. If you do, take a cue tip and gently push it inside and twist. you don't want to apply any sort of pressure because you're at risk of rotating the rubber ever so slightly or damaging it.
Step 4:
Moving on to the lower.. I have two processes that i do to the lower. One after every game, and one after every 5. The only difference is on the 5th clean i spray out the lower with brake/chain/carb cleaner. Because of how tight everything is packed in to the MWS trigger box its hard to completely clean it without removing it from the lower. with carb cleaner it will blast out all of the deposits and degrease the trigger mech completely. what will happen is the spray will run into the gaps and drip out of the trigger hole in the bottom of the lower. The spray evaporates in the air, so after about 30 seconds it will be bone dry, leaving behind a clear trigger box. For the daily clean, i just wipe down all visible surfaces with a cloth/ paper towel. In order to keep a reliable bolt lock, push the bolt release and clean the faces of the ZET plate when it lifts up. if you get crap between there, it can slow and not lock back reliably. Especially running green gas, which cycles the gun faster.
Step 5:
Everything is now clean, so we can start with the lube. There's lots of options out there but one thing that's important is this... SILICONE OIL IS NOT FOR METAL ON METAL PARTS. over time, silicone oil will make metal bind and is the exact opposite of what we want to do. Silicone oil is important, but only for sealing components. I use Wurth dry chain spray for 2 reasons. If it can lubricate and stand up to the temperatures of chain/sprocket contact on a 200mph motorbike, it will do just fine on our bolt moving 8" forward and back. The other reason is it isn't messy. it dries in the air and leaves a light film on the surface so it isn't going to get thrown around the inside of the gun. so give it a good spray and give it a few seconds to dry.
Step 6:
Back to the lower.. If you're using a spray like me, put your finger over the hop up entrance in the lower receiver and give the inside a quick spray with the lube. YOU DO NOT WANT ANY LUBE OR ANYTHING ELSE ON THE HOP RUBBER. If you're using a grease or oil, this is less of an issue (until you fire the gun and it throws it all in there anyway)
Step 7:
Spray your BCG and charging handle with lube. Pretty self explanatory so i didn't bother with a picture. What i do is hold the bolt by the nozzle with my thumb covering the underside of the nozzle. this stops any lube going into the nozzle chamber.
Step 8:
Last thing to do is lubricate the sealing parts with silicone oil. This step is only really needed if you use propane, as green gas should keep the sealing cup on the nozzle adequately lubed and i do this every 5 games. Pull the nozzle out and place a couple of drops of silicone oil between the nozzle and the BCG. On WE guns you can pull the nozzle out far enough to apple lube directly to the o ring, but you cant on an MWS without removing the nozzle, so this is as good as you can get. Like i said though, if you're using green gas, this shouldn't need to be done often.
Step 9:
Put it all back together because you're done!
Last edited by a moderator:
sonofsammo
Members
- Feb 3, 2018
- 1,447
- 435
sonofsammo
Members
- Feb 3, 2018
- 1,447
- 435
Last edited by a moderator:
sonofsammo
Members
- Feb 3, 2018
- 1,447
- 435
I am very sad.
Today, I went pewpew. But My MWS neither pewed, nor pewed.
Started off with red gas, each mag managed about 12 shots before dying. Then ran out of red gas, so switched to ultra-air. And I was averaging 4-6 shots per mag.
It made things....... interesting...... to say the least.
I was gutted. And yet my MK23 worked just fine on the Ultra-air.
It's a beautiful gun, but I am quickly falling out of love with it.
I am very glad that a marshal lent me his rifle for the last couple of games, because as good as the MK23 is, having the extra capacity of the rifle was a Godsend!
So - help!
Wtf do I do, as i'm in danger of getting another gun and putting this one away til Summer (well, late Spring)...
Not that I can afford another gun.
Today, I went pewpew. But My MWS neither pewed, nor pewed.
Started off with red gas, each mag managed about 12 shots before dying. Then ran out of red gas, so switched to ultra-air. And I was averaging 4-6 shots per mag.
It made things....... interesting...... to say the least.
I was gutted. And yet my MK23 worked just fine on the Ultra-air.
It's a beautiful gun, but I am quickly falling out of love with it.
I am very glad that a marshal lent me his rifle for the last couple of games, because as good as the MK23 is, having the extra capacity of the rifle was a Godsend!
So - help!
Wtf do I do, as i'm in danger of getting another gun and putting this one away til Summer (well, late Spring)...
Not that I can afford another gun.
Last edited by a moderator:
The Mk23 would probably run in Antarctica on Duster gas tbf.
I've used my MWS on Green in about 2 degrees C, but only on semi and not spamming the trigger.
I think Nuprol 4.0 is the gas to use while it is this parky. Not used it myself but there are so many factors coming into play with GBBR use in winter, including, but not limited to: gas type used, gas amount in mag, weather, temperature of magazines, lubrication of gun, gaps between shots...
I've used my MWS on Green in about 2 degrees C, but only on semi and not spamming the trigger.
I think Nuprol 4.0 is the gas to use while it is this parky. Not used it myself but there are so many factors coming into play with GBBR use in winter, including, but not limited to: gas type used, gas amount in mag, weather, temperature of magazines, lubrication of gun, gaps between shots...
- Thread starter
- #33
Weather is looking half decent on Saturday so providing it’s not super windy I’m going to do some long range testing on my brother with the mws and a range finder. He doesn’t know it yet, but I’m sure he won’t mind 
. Might bring the scar H and gas m40a5 out for a comparison too
. Might bring the scar H and gas m40a5 out for a comparison toosonofsammo
Members
- Feb 3, 2018
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How did it go?Weather is looking half decent on Saturday so providing it’s not super windy I’m going to do some long range testing on my brother with the mws and a range finder. He doesn’t know it yet, but I’m sure he won’t mind
sonofsammo
Members
- Feb 3, 2018
- 1,447
- 435
Trying to do the green gas mod, and after shagging two mags, I give up.
First mag, took the valve/pipe out.
Bought a pipe cutter - which dented the pipe, but wouldn't cut through.
Bought another pipe cutter - which dented the pipe, but wouldn't cut through.
Used a hacksaw - which went through the pipe. and the outlet valve underneath. :angry:
Whilst I was doing this, my darling son had pinched the spring. And twisted it. A lot.
Mag one down.
So with this new found knowledge, moved on to Mag no 2.
Got it all sorted, cut in the right place, rebuilt the mag.
And now it won't hold gas.
This gun, although I love it, is starting to annoy me.
It's like having a gorgeous wife that won't shag you.......
View attachment 33177
First mag, took the valve/pipe out.
Bought a pipe cutter - which dented the pipe, but wouldn't cut through.
Bought another pipe cutter - which dented the pipe, but wouldn't cut through.
Used a hacksaw - which went through the pipe. and the outlet valve underneath. :angry:
Whilst I was doing this, my darling son had pinched the spring. And twisted it. A lot.
Mag one down.
So with this new found knowledge, moved on to Mag no 2.
Got it all sorted, cut in the right place, rebuilt the mag.
And now it won't hold gas.
This gun, although I love it, is starting to annoy me.
It's like having a gorgeous wife that won't shag you.......
View attachment 33177
- Thread starter
- #36
You’re not having the best of luck, are you.. eagle6 should have spare parts for your magazine.
Are you using the little pipe cutter with the two small cutting disks? The metal is very soft so you need to tighten it just enough to grip, spin it a few times to score it and then tighten the tool up a fraction, before spinning it again.
Where are you based?
Are you using the little pipe cutter with the two small cutting disks? The metal is very soft so you need to tighten it just enough to grip, spin it a few times to score it and then tighten the tool up a fraction, before spinning it again.
Where are you based?
sonofsammo
Members
- Feb 3, 2018
- 1,447
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Nope, no luck at all :angry:
Funnily enough, I'm on the eagle6 site at the mo.
I was using this pipe cutter - https://www.screwfix.com/p/3-28mm-manual-multi-material-pipe-cutter/49428
I'm in between Selby and Doncaster.
It's driving me mental - Cos I know that when it works, the gun is awesome!
- Thread starter
- #38
that cutter looks fine. i think what a lot of people do is tighten the cutter too much and crimp the pipe.
if you get the new valves and don't want to have another crack at it, I'd happily do it for you, but you'd have to post them.
Don't let it put you off. i was having a play with mine today and i can't put into words how awesome they are.
if you get the new valves and don't want to have another crack at it, I'd happily do it for you, but you'd have to post them.
Don't let it put you off. i was having a play with mine today and i can't put into words how awesome they are.
sonofsammo
Members
- Feb 3, 2018
- 1,447
- 435
Thanks for the offer @Wo1f, I may have to take you up on that. Although I'm finding myself a little risk averse with the mags.
Played today.
And what a wonderful day it was!
Absolutely spot on - And a beast of a gun, when it's on form.
I had a thoroughly enjoyable day.
It makes a difference when your primary actually fires!
Red gas and better weather FTW.
Loads of kills, which makes me happy.
However, I find the low caps a challenge when faced with a hi cap AEG army.
So ended up on a couple of occasions getting pistol kills cos I'd run dry on the MWS.
I carry a back pack now with gas, BBs and the speedloader, so at least I can re-arm myself.
All in all, if it keeps working like this, I'll be a very happy bunny.
On the low caps front - how do you all deal with it, when faced with an AEG barrage?
Played today.
And what a wonderful day it was!
Absolutely spot on - And a beast of a gun, when it's on form.
I had a thoroughly enjoyable day.
It makes a difference when your primary actually fires!
Red gas and better weather FTW.
Loads of kills, which makes me happy.
However, I find the low caps a challenge when faced with a hi cap AEG army.
So ended up on a couple of occasions getting pistol kills cos I'd run dry on the MWS.
I carry a back pack now with gas, BBs and the speedloader, so at least I can re-arm myself.
All in all, if it keeps working like this, I'll be a very happy bunny.
On the low caps front - how do you all deal with it, when faced with an AEG barrage?
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