Superlube

[emilianoksa]

Anybody use this in preference to white lithium grease or molybdenum grease.

It contains no petroleum products or silicone and is popular with American airsofters.

 

[Iceni]

Looks like marketing wank to me.

The company is a Loctite brand so it doesn't surprise me.

PTFE impregnated Silicone grease. It'll be the same stuff I regularly link to on ebay ( none on atm), but in a more expensive package and with an added brand name. Other companies do the same with marketing like molyslip foodslip ect. Nothing new about the product or magical. You'll notice there are very few images of the actual grease online.

The lack of information about the actual grease would put me right off buying it. If you don't know 100% what's in it, you don't know what it's 100% safe on. You need that information in industry, so it's a product designed for the home gamer and lighter industry that generally don't have a clue.


As for not containing silicone, I can't find anything to back that up. In fact the brand seems to cover a wide range of greases and oils, and they don't come forward with information on a lot of it.

You don't need expensive greases. Good quality grease is graded rather than branded. And manufacturers aim to meet a grade.

For metal on metal Moly grease. This is a good soft grease. Nothing fancy but it works and doesn't resist your gears.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Molybdenum-Disulphide-Grease-for-Airgun-Servicing-50-GRAM-TIN-FP-mos-1/391721324225?epid=1548017327&hash=item5b34690ec1:g:C6sAAMXQ2dBSHU90

For plastic and plastic on metal, silicone grease with PTFE. I normally link to MPF-2-HT which is thinner and clearer but this one will work as well.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200g-Silicone-Grease-PTFE-Teflon-White-Air-Rifle-Paint-Ball-Air-Soft/172301501574?hash=item281df84486:g:QFEAAOSwVFlT0lGf

 

[emilianoksa]

Thanks for taking the trouble.

 

[Iceni]

Thanks for taking the trouble.

Click to shrink...

No problem.

General rule of thumb, if a company decide to rename a common additive, it's marketing wank. For trademark protection.

Not much different to Gillette adding another blade and changing the way the blades attach to the razor handle. It stops the market been able to make cheap clones of the current product (always marketed as better than the previous ones, And always poor shaming the people on the previous system). It's done not to progress and develop a product to make it better, but to capitalise on a market and stop competition.
 


 

 

[AshOnSnow]

I've been recommended Ballistol.

 

[Sitting Duck]

Thng is - it is quite cheap to pick up in an American Walmart with ya shopping

But with anything imported from US - ya get shafted without any lube at all

That grease you linked to - I wouldn't buy it

Somewhere I got a large tube of nigh on exact same stuff

food safe silicone bollox - too thick

read that you can dilutue/thin it with silicone oil - yup did that

mixed up a modest amount in a small pot with lid....

what a wank that was, the silicone oil evaporated over time & left with thick cakey crap

better to buy a smaller titchy pot of thin silicone grease than a large tub of food safe silicone

or

buy Superlube at the inflated price in UK

or

better still next time you know somebody going to states - get them to buy ya some

just my 2 cents/pennies what I found, that food safe silicone is too thick

and really is not what you want to waste your money on imho

Others might have got better results but I think it was an unwise purchase truth be told

quite white than clear silicone grease & pretty shit imho

 

[emilianoksa]

Slightly off topic I know but what is murder oil and why can't we get it here?

 

[Iceni]

There is an easy way to check the viscosity @Sitting Duck.

NGLI numbers. It's a standard set by the grease governing body. All the NGLI number tells you is how thick it is on application. I normally look for 2-3. Yes it's thicker than a near liquid grease but you have to understand grease properties.

Thicker grease only resists more for the shear phase of it's operation. Once the shear is complete it acts with the friction coefficient of the base oil.

For piston o-rings, the initial resistance of a thicker grease isn't an issue It's actually a bonus as it means the grease sticks to the surfaces and doesn't wipe off.

The super thick stuff that is near solid I don't bother with, But a decent NGLI 2 or at a push 3 is perfectly fine in my opinion for a silicone grease in this application. Gear grease wants to be softer.

 

[Sitting Duck]

Just saying that food silicone I was not impressed with

looked more like sudocrem than clear silicone grease

I thought gear grease wants to be thicker but spread lightly

idea being the thicker higher viscous stuff still sticks to the gears teeth/V's

so the main area of contact wear reduces friction/heat/wear

thinner stuff just flies off and sprays everywhere in the box but on the gears

so really you need two lubes, light grease for stuff like tappet plates & maybe o-rings

though not too thin like oily grease

then you want something like a bit thicker that doesn't fly off the gears/pinion in 0.5 secs

I got some Superlube - and yes it is good stuff - could be used to lube everything

but feel gears need a more thicker moby grease

Yes it is well overpriced - way way way overpriced and probably over rated tbh

think peeps would be better off buying a small pot of silicone grease for £2 which would do

than splash near £10 on something I feel is not ideally perfect I found

I don't think the food silicone is high temp/friction for gears/drive chain

though lightly spreading something like that viscocity - bollox to how it's spelt

something like that thick on the gears - but capable of taking stress/friction

(think that food grease is more for food safe in automation lines that don't have the high speeds of aeg gears)

just saying - I'm still looking for some cheaper alternative that ticks the boxes

it is a fucking pisstake on the superlube price I agree though - but not if you live in 'murica

Think I got 3 tubes for about £28 a while back - way over priced

think about best deal is:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Loctite-399420-85g-Synthetic-Superlube-Grease-Tube/192494733447?epid=1055397295&hash=item2cd1948887:g:Y9gAAOSw23VbTwe2

BUT THIS IS A FUCKING PISS TAKE....

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Loctite-2105011-Super-Lube-85g/111884039875?epid=1055397295&hash=item1a0ccef6c3:g:GpwAAOSw9N5bDrWV

£37:10 - sod selling drugs - start dealing in class A grease kids

I tried looking up Farnell, RS & others but not gonna get it much cheaper

or buy something like:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pcs-Silicone-Grease-Waterproof-Watch-Cream-Upkeep-Repair-Restorer-Tool/123273858593?_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D53378%26meid%3D41e0d7d455644cabbc65bf8e05e6cc46%26pid%3D100281%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26%26itm%3D123273858593&_trksid=p2045573.c100281.m3567

looks a bit cheap tbh but nowt to lose

or

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20g-PURE-SILICONE-GREASE-FOR-BRAKE-CALIPERS-O-RINGS-AND-SEALS-MICRO-TIN/392080648480?hash=item5b49d3e920:m:m6mn2uEDQYOv5VR1-mBX44A

just my thoughts - if anybody finds something really good at a great price I'd love to know too

Yes it is a bit expensive at over £10 for a bit of lube

but considering the amount you use - what less than 25p~50p if you go nutz in the box

that isn't a vast amount but still goes against the grain a bit I'll agree

However not as expensive as £100 CNC box & £100 Seigetek gears by comparison

THAT is what I call expensive - await flaming by techs with an unlimited budget....

but you get my point I'm trying to make

sometimes you gotta bite the bullet and pay more for stuff - still stings a bit but hey ho

sometimes you can use other cheaper alternatives - but you still takes your chances imho

put it this way, I've used other stuff for o-rings and got 345fps

put away gun - month or so later the fps has dropped to 310fps 

superlube stuff has not dropped like the food stuff I tried to dilute a bit

Now the spring could have faded, but really - I suspect the food stuff was $hit

Maybe coz I diluted - maybe spring faded, maybe who knows - but just saying

I'd recommend spreading caviar on the o-ring if it really worked - but it don't

funny when some PC tech articles did some heatsink tests using Artic MX-4 or Gelid

versus mayo, toothpaste, cream cheese & fuck knows what else

plus the pattern - splodge, a big X, pea dot, smiley face, square, circle

They get paid to piss ball about like this and compile the results

I wanna job like that - mega jealous

but yeah Artic or more expensive Gelid still beats Heinz Mayo for some odd reason

(think Aldi's own brand was slightly better than Heinz - but yeah still shit though)

 

[Iceni]

Just saying that food silicone I was not impressed with

looked more like sudocrem than clear silicone grease

Click to shrink...

It can do. A lot of the food grade stuff is higher NGLI rated. It needs to be thick for that application to resist fluid ingress but that is just one grade of it. There are food grade silicone greases right the way through the viscosity range depending on the application. You can't write off it all based on one product that has been a disaster. NGLI ratings let you pick a grease that will at least be the right thickness.

Super thick greases can be a problem, but you have to understand the mechanics of the grease a little. Silicone greases for example should all run at the same friction coefficient as silicone oil when up to speed. It's the speed that is critical, Too thick and too slow you won't meet the shear force requirement so it'll still be resisting. Too thin and too fast you will push it off the surfaces and end up running dry.

All silicone grease is effectively the same bar the NGLI number, It all works on the lubricity of silicone oil. Brand should play no part in it's actual function.
 

I thought gear grease wants to be thicker but spread lightly

idea being the thicker higher viscous stuff still sticks to the gears teeth/V's

so the main area of contact wear reduces friction/heat/wear

Click to shrink...

Not always, Shear and impact resistance play an equal role. I agree you don't want it flying off, but you also don't want it to go stringy or be pushed off the gear faces. Harder greases applied thin will smash out of the meshing faces, and you will end up running dry. With a harder grease you will see the grease pool at the edges of the teeth as lumps.

The correct amount of grease is enough to coat the gear mesh and faces (good thick smear not a dollop), Reducing the noise of the gears, and not fly off. You will always get grease splatters, Even in industry where a grease is selected to run on open gears.

It's what stays on that's important. Too much grease should just make a mess, it should not affect the performance of the part, and if it does it's the wrong grease.

I don't think the food silicone is high temp/friction for gears/drive chain

Click to shrink...

It's actually fine on gears, the problem with it isn't the temp or the friction on metal on metal. It's the lack of a particulate lubrication that causes problems, Once it's smashed out or gone dry silicone grease is useless. As without the oil part you have no lubrication. For a short term solution it is far better than nothing at all.

Moly is unique in the fact that the particulate works even when dry. So a good moly grease still protects even if the soap/oil has long since vanished. Or if there is only the slightest whiff of grease left. You don't need a lot for it to be efficient either.

 

 

[Sitting Duck]

snip...

Click to shrink...

Which is why I said....

so really you need two lubes, light grease for stuff like tappet plates & maybe o-rings

though not too thin like oily grease

then you want something like a bit thicker that doesn't fly off the gears/pinion in 0.5 secs

I got some Superlube - and yes it is good stuff - could be used to lube everything

but feel gears need a more thicker moby grease

Click to shrink...

Yes I might slop some SuperLube on the gears but would rather use a Moby or LM2 grease on gears

spread onto gears and rotated once or twice to distribute it plus a mild smear on poor pinion

I might use thin SL on say cross bushings that are supposed to cascade onto axles in operation

The SL is mainly used for o-rings & tappet plus a light smear on nozzle/cyl head spout

that sort of stuff- free flowing gliding lubrication

with gears getting a heavier duty grease instead for durability etc....

I'm still probably not using the absolute perfectly suited stuff for each component

but it seems to work better I feel, good compression, smooth running on certain components

and looking at spec the LM2 grease "seems" to be better suited for gears & stuff

You obviously know a lot more than me about the chemical & physical properties of it all

But was just saying that food stuff - hmmm I wasn't impressed with it myself - that's all

 

[emilianoksa]

A little late in replying, I know.?

Since it contains no silicone or petrolem products I thought it might be useful for lubing the grooves on pistol slides for guns with plastic frames, like the Glocks.

Both white lithium and moly are petroleum based. Superlube is synthetic.

It is expensive, but for my simple needs a small tube would last a lifetime.

 

[ak2m4]

Lot of my customers use superlube, getting some flown over next couple of weeks.  Prices over here are crazy