Stock Bulldog sr4pg ris upgrades

[Hangtight]

Poor trigger discipline is the usual cause of gearbox jams. You should make sure the trigger remains fully back until the shot cycle is finished. Unless you've got a fancy Mosfet, in which case it'll have a cycle completion function.

Firing semi auto only is also hard on the power system. You're starting the motor from a standstill every time, and stalled is when it'll pull its highest current and hence generate the most heat. Not too much of a problem with beefy lipo batteries and powerful neodynium magnet motors where efficiency is a lot higher and the battery can support the instant peak load, but for what's in your gun at the moment short bursts of full auto would be better.

 

[Sitting Duck]

I knew correcting AOE does drop fps but from what I have read/watched there can be drops of 5-10fps and people reporting drops of 50 fps.

I asked them what their fps rules are and a pretty short and to the point reply was 350fps is the UK limit.... Uhmm... I read the 2017 regulations earlier and the auto limit is 370, semi-auto and bolt action is 519 obviously these are absolute maximums and no site will use these......

Click to shrink...

yup think 370fps is max limit for auto but only seen one place with this limit in their rules/terms

(can't think which one off top of my head)

most sites it is 350fps and this is absolute max or should be

(the site "may" allow if shooting 348, 350, 352, 348 etc.... the odd one shot just a whisker over but don't bank on it)

mainly to do with insurance

The Mall is 340fps not one smidge more and they chrono on their own mags or speedload a few 0.20's into bespoke mags

(so chrono cheaters don't  even think about it in Reading CQB)

AoE is about 10fps loss imho - could be up to 15fps no more if the angle was really bad

could be 5fps if the AoE was just a smidge in need of correcting

Often you get this back and may a few more by fitting bearing spring guide & improving crap seals & better piston o-ring

(bearing spring guide and any spacers inside piston increases final spring compression/power)

Also if you fit an irregular spring back to front you can get about 10fps more sometimes I have found

(tighter coils up at piston head instead at back = +10fps)

if your gun is shooting 370 and you lock to semi - ergh that is going to be a $hit DMR tbh

You really need to get it chrono'd and see what is what & needs doing

Also - unless I missed it, check the box is metal & not plastic v2 gearbox

If it is a plastic v2 box then the screws won't be normal M3 threads but self tapping screws

(in other words these screws won't like lots of opening up of box long term & not a long lasting box)

That bastid JambWow & his f*cking re-enforced bollox

or BBGuns4Less where I bought my Dragon - $hite gearbox but has so-so SRC metal gears

(the poxy Krinkov ak74 thingy had f*cking plastic box with crap plastic gears that shred like dairy lea)

So check the box before you plan to go too nutz even with a few tweaks

old post I found....

 

[Crimsonknight3]

yup think 370fps is max limit for auto but only seen one place with this limit in their rules/terms

(can't think which one off top of my head)

most sites it is 350fps and this is absolute max or should be

(the site "may" allow if shooting 348, 350, 352, 348 etc.... the odd one shot just a whisker over but don't bank on it)

mainly to do with insurance

The Mall is 340fps not one smidge more and they chrono on their own mags or speedload a few 0.20's into bespoke mags

(so chrono cheaters don't  even think about it in Reading CQB)

AoE is about 10fps loss imho - could be up to 15fps no more if the angle was really bad

could be 5fps if the AoE was just a smidge in need of correcting

Often you get this back and may a few more by fitting bearing spring guide & improving crap seals & better piston o-ring

(bearing spring guide and any spacers inside piston increases final spring compression/power)

Also if you fit an irregular spring back to front you can get about 10fps more sometimes I have found

(tighter coils up at piston head instead at back = +10fps)

if your gun is shooting 370 and you lock to semi - ergh that is going to be a $hit DMR tbh

You really need to get it chrono'd and see what is what & needs doing

Also - unless I missed it, check the box is metal & not plastic v2 gearbox

If it is a plastic v2 box then the screws won't be normal M3 threads but self tapping screws

(in other words these screws won't like lots of opening up of box long term & not a long lasting box)

That bastid JambWow & his f*cking re-enforced bollox

or BBGuns4Less where I bought my Dragon - $hite gearbox but has so-so SRC metal gears

(the poxy Krinkov ak74 thingy had f*cking plastic box with crap plastic gears that shred like dairy lea)

So check the box before you plan to go too nutz even with a few tweaks

old post I found....

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Thanks, after it's chrono'd ill check the gearbox. To be fair, they aren't that expensive, and if it's a cheapy plastic one, it would be worth the money replacing it with a more sturdy one. I want to make sure its greased but not TOO greased anyway, and replace the grease if its the cheapy Chinese disgusting brown crap anyway. If I'm slightly over fps wise ill try the tap washer and in a month or two get a better piston head and nozzle with decent o rings. 

As for locking it to semi for dmr, some site rules state 410fps for dmr so as long as I'm not going cqb I could actually increase the fps instead (Of course assuming the gearbox and motor can handle it).

What are your opinions on the homemade mosfet systems? Essentially as dumb as they get but does the job of taking the strain off the trigger contacts? 

I'm starting to act like I do with my car... This little bit feels off, I'll just fix that, oh and this isn't right ill sort that and not sure when this was last changed so ill do that..... lmao 

Poor trigger discipline is the usual cause of gearbox jams. You should make sure the trigger remains fully back until the shot cycle is finished. Unless you've got a fancy Mosfet, in which case it'll have a cycle completion function.

Firing semi auto only is also hard on the power system. You're starting the motor from a standstill every time, and stalled is when it'll pull its highest current and hence generate the most heat. Not too much of a problem with beefy lipo batteries and powerful neodynium magnet motors where efficiency is a lot higher and the battery can support the instant peak load, but for what's in your gun at the moment short bursts of full auto would be better.

Click to shrink...

Thanks for that advice, despite the fact it doesn't fit my style I'll try to use bursts as much as I can until I can get a better gun (or just keep the shell and keep on improving this one although tbh there are a lot of sexier guns out there haha) 

 

[Sitting Duck]

Best advice - DON'T CHUCK MONEY INTO THIS GUN......

Click to shrink...

 

[Crimsonknight3]

Best advice - DON'T CHUCK MONEY INTO THIS GUN......

Click to shrink...

Click to shrink...

I don't intend to lol To be honest, I would be miffed if I was the original purchaser if this gun is a rebranded SRC dragon as he paid £250+ about a year ago for it. 

I plan on working on gear in the new year, molle plate carrier, slightly more rugged boots, possibly a nice sight and tac light, and all the while saving up about £250-£350 for my next gun, once I actually have my defence at least and a stronger idea of what sort of gun I personally would be happy to pay. (getting my defence will give me a chance to see others guns and make a more informed choice, while this £75 gun saves me £25-£35 a game)

That's the overall plan anyway. In the meantime, if there are cheap things I can do to extend the life, or performance of this gun then I may as well. This event on the 17th will be the perfect opportunity to really get a feel for the quality of the internals of this gun. It may be that it isn't too terrible

 

[Crimsonknight3]

Just got back from xsite lane end... Yeah it was shooting a tad hot.... 380fps -+2fps -_- He's going to clip the spring before the christmas charity game on the 17th to bring it within their 350fps site limit. Had a good really long chat with him about airsoft in general and the law. He is a pretty straight taking guy but not to the point of being rude. Just a no bullshit type lol 

He was telling us about costumes people have worn in previous years. One ingenious guy basically dressed up in a huge box as a Christmas present and made holsters for his guns inside the box hahaha 

 

[Sitting Duck]

He will clip the spring - hmmm ok but hope he does a neat job

inside the spring has a hook at the end which mounts on an alloy spacer - quite weighty btw

So I'm guessing as the spring is fixed firmly inside the piston/head he will literally clip the spring in situ

Me personally I'd open the bastid & separate it all, remove alloy block, dremel hook off end of spring

then use a M3 bolt with a M3 nylon lock nut and penny repair washer & refit it all

That spacer weighs about 7gms I kid you not if you get into saving weight & saddo stuff

(so it will save more weight than crazy swiss cheesing a piston above)

Anyway that spacer is about 7.5/8mm thick which is 2.5 teeth (teeth are 3mm pitch btw)

So in effect it is like losing 2 to 3 teeth less spring final compression = less power fps etc....

Losing a tooth as is Short Stroking is like each tooth is about 12fps x 2.5 = 30 fps

correct AoE is about 10fps if you like.....

BUT - you might not be able to if that is a plastic SRC box...

If my memory serves me correctly that might be an all in one plastic cylinder & head

in other words they don't come apart like the metal 6mm box with nice double o-ring brass cylinder head

Also the SRC sector - bottom right shows just how narrow them teeth are

compared to the lower left sector there is very little tooth width to mess on spur gear (not shown but imagine one)

meaning the sector must be shimmed very close to spur gear to get a modest tiny bit of teeth to engage

I have tried to reuse a set and when pushed with a bit of speed and stress it will just bust

it is a cheapo non magnetic/ferrous metal used that is like dairy lea under any real stress

twice I had them fail and never again would I use that f*cking sector - thought I threw them all out of my spares box

TBH - the bloke is probably correct in just clipping off the spring in situ and shoving it all back together

(I'm just a bit of a tart tbh)

the pic that says 1,000 words.....

If it is a plastic box then really just use it for what it is

a metal box has a bit more durability going for it - well a bit

yup you could tweak this tweak that, replace the gearbox blah blah blah

but be careful you don't go too nutz on that 2002 Fiat Punto rust bucket

Trying to pimp it out with neon lights under car/footwell, skirts, alloys & ultra low profiles, painted brake calipers, red seat belts, great big baked bean tailpipe, K&N air filter, $hit cheapo china ICE system badly distorting stuff very loudly, Kiss FM sticker etc....

It will still be a rusty Fiat Punto just you wasted a $hitload of money on it trying to polish a turd & sprinkling glitter on it trying tomake it look something it ain't

Save money for a G&G (non ETU), or the new Classic Army or anything that pour time/money into this

get it under 350 for as little as possible, use it for 3 games - get UKARA then maybe sell on or keep as a backup

(if it lasts much longer than 3 games)

I'm telling ya this so you can gain some wisdom from MY MISTAKES than make the same mistakes I did starting out

I found this place AFTER I messed up and bought a few piles of crap

Try to limit your errors from now on is what I'm trying to say

get it clipped, shooting 350 and do ya games hopefully but forget about pimping this gun out - it ain't really worth it

 

[Crimsonknight3]

Thanks, Duck, I appreciate all of the advice. I am a bit sad and I am loving all the science and engineering behind Airsoft guns! haha

He said he would get his tech to clip the spring 1 turn (tooth? terminology help haha) at a time until it is under the 350 limit. To be honest, finding out it is a plastic gearbox has made me about 200% less likely to bother correcting aoe etc and just leave the gun as is until I have my defence. The guy suggested going in for a cyma if my budget is low. They sell one for £100 and one for £109 but I am pretty sure the exact same cyma rifle is on Patrolbase.co.uk for £75. Apparently every gun in their shop has a metal gearbox, they won't sell plastic ones. Though for about £30-£40 more (at least on patrolbase, I can get one of the cheaper G & G rifles). They have some REAL nice full metal guns for around £250 but my budget probably tops out at about £150 or so. The varying pricing and the fact some people report getting plastic gearboxes when alloy are specified (buying online) makes me wonder whether paying a little extra to buy from a shop is more worth it.... Still as long as this gun lasts me my 3 games, technically I break even in terms of cost spent on the gun vs cost I would've spent hiring lol 

 

[Hangtight]

If you're on a budget then the Cyma AKs are hard to beat, especially if you get the models with the neodynium magnet motor and the full metal rack pistons. A cheap mosfet, basic rewire and a bit of time spent shimming the gearbox etc. and you've got a really solid, nice shooting gun for under your £150. Plenty of tacticool bits for not much money on dhgate.com as well.

 

[Sitting Duck]

https://gunfire.pl/product-eng-1152216180-SRT-28-Assault-Rifle-Replica-Tan.html

on offer at £60 + cheap 2-tone free spring downgrade + shipping etc...

it is a CYMA just rebadged - you won't get abetter deal on a decent cheapo gun with metal box

M4 Cyma's are best M4's under £100

As Hangtight says their AK's are awesome too

(cm028 or cm037 cheapo ones I mean or the higher end versions if you got the dosh)

above that G&G or Classic Army perhaps have upped their game

with stuff like this then you really should avoid sinking too much money into the wrong gun

even with cyma's and they are great value - you need to keep it real how far you go if tweaking it

hindsight is basically use it as is than go nutz on upgrades that often you may not need or make it worse

(amount of people that buy up madbull go-faster crap and fit it badly making it even worse)

Use it & wait until itneeds service/repair before considering upgrade bits n bobs

if/when the SRC goes bang - then perhaps tinker with it for a laugh to gain some experience

but avoid sinking too much time/money in the wrong gun

this where do you start & where do you stop is a little tricky at times

sometimes you need to say wtf & cut your losses

guns are like cars imho

start off with a Punto, then work upwards to say a VW then maybe Audi & eventually a BMW perhaps

don't waste time & money trying make a crap Punto into something it is not

 

[Crimsonknight3]

start off with a Punto, then work upwards to say a VW then maybe Audi & eventually a BMW perhaps

don't waste time & money trying make a crap Punto into something it is not




1

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Makes me laugh seeing "boy racers" pour £1000's into sh*tty cars trying to make them sound and look nice where they end up still being a piece of crap haha 

FYI I started with a 1998 1.0 Hyundai Atoz (look it up, it was hilarious to drive) then a 1.2 2004 skoda fabia, now I have a 1.6 2005 MG ZS

with stuff like this then you really should avoid sinking too much money into the wrong gun

even with cyma's and they are great value - you need to keep it real how far you go if tweaking it

hindsight is basically use it as is than go nutz on upgrades that often you may not need or make it worse

(amount of people that buy up madbull go-faster crap and fit it badly making it even worse)

Use it & wait until itneeds service/repair before considering upgrade bits n bobs




5

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Think this is the hardest part about being new to airsoft guns. I have spent a stupid amount of time looking at guns, trying to find honest reviews and feed back on the guns/websites and I still have not much of a clue as to which gun to go for. I know the types of brands to aim for but about that brands can have 5 or 6 guns within £30-£40 of eachother. I may end up going down the road of waiting for my defence, then seeing if I can test fire a few of the shops options and see what I like from there. My partner wants her own gun aswell although she is less enthusiastic about the who gun side than I am, so she said if mine is usable then she'll have it. Will find out on the 17th. Shop owner said twice that their rental g36 will wreck my gun lol >.< 

If you're on a budget then the Cyma AKs are hard to beat, especially if you get the models with the neodynium magnet motor and the full metal rack pistons. A cheap mosfet, basic rewire and a bit of time spent shimming the gearbox etc. and you've got a really solid, nice shooting gun for under your £150. Plenty of tacticool bits for not much money on dhgate.com as well.

Click to shrink...

I really don't know why but I have always dislike AK variants... Don't ask me why though... Its just one of those things you feel when you look at something haha 

 

[Sitting Duck]

He said he would get his tech to clip the spring 1 turn (tooth? terminology help haha) at a time until it is under the 350 limit.

Click to shrink...

Well f*ck that then - I'd lose the metal spacer and grind the loop off like I said

that would be a fairly good starting point than try & guess chop guess chop guess chop

I'd lay money if they lost spacer it would be 345-355

it could be just above 350 coz the piston would be lighter/faster travelling

but reckon it would be better starting point to come down from 380 to 350 or so

15mm M3 bolt, nylon locking M3 nut - bit of a bastid to tighten but 5 or 5.5mm socket on screwdriver

large M3 penny/repair washer - all sorted to go back in after losing the springs loop

what cost 50p or something ??? Plus a bit of time

why guess this n that to keep having to go again

unless they got a APS UAR to test spring - so gotta separate from piston anyway

test fps in UAR, clip spring so it comes down say expected 30fps

(you would have to remove loop anyway to use spring in UAR)

nah I'd cut the loop & drop the spacer M3 nut/bolt but I'm a tart as I said

Don't worry about the gun so much - sounds like you are getting hooked

you will probably end up buying a M4 or two, an AK, G36c etc....

All coz you don't know what one you like best and because of girls & shoes & handbag issue

I know I have 4 M4 guns already but this one is different - it is a keymod rail system !!!!

 

[Crimsonknight3]

Well f*ck that then - I'd lose the metal spacer and grind the loop off like I said

that would be a fairly good starting point than try & guess chop guess chop guess chop

I'd lay money if they lost spacer it would be 345-355

it could be just above 350 coz the piston would be lighter/faster travelling

but reckon it would be better starting point to come down from 380 to 350 or so

15mm M3 bolt, nylon locking M3 nut - bit of a bastid to tighten but 5 or 5.5mm socket on screwdriver

large M3 penny/repair washer - all sorted to go back in after losing the springs loop

what cost 50p or something ??? Plus a bit of time

why guess this n that to keep having to go again

unless they got a APS UAR to test spring - so gotta separate from piston anyway

test fps in UAR, clip spring so it comes down say expected 30fps

(you would have to remove loop anyway to use spring in UAR)

nah I'd cut the loop & drop the spacer M3 nut/bolt but I'm a tart as I said

Click to shrink...

My first thought when he tested it was that I would simply replace the spring and guide, then he said it was a plastic gearbox which put me off a tad, THEN I thought about it a while longer and decided I didn't want to be driving about with a section 5 firearm in the car so decided to just leave it with them haha they were going to charge £15 to clip it and an extra £15 if I wanted to simply replace the spring instead. Already decided at that point I weren't going to pour money into a plastic gearbox so just let them have at it lol 

When I mention that next year once I have a better set of gear and more experience I'd like to try a milsim event. He was a bit blunt in saying that people don't understand what milsim is and it isn't what most people think it is. I understand that they must get a lot of action-centric big ego's who think a milsim is like D day but sometimes it irks me that people act like all new people to things (not just airsoft) are all the same, or just decide "yeah I want to go do a milsim" with no research... I wouldn't want to play airsoft or be interested in milsim without having done my homework in the first place to decide whether its worth my time/money and whether I will get what I want out of it >.< 

 

[Sitting Duck]

To each their own - some do mil-sim, others skirmish, others have a mess about

Some just plink

Me, it is just a toy gun and me hauling my ol' ar$e out of chair to try to shoot people trying to shoot me

often it is me wearing a trail back to respawn coz I suck at this

it is just big kids refusing to grow up

bring a gun, bit of safety sense & eyepro, leave ya ego in the safe zone and have a bit of fun

avoid the twats, don't get stressed, call ya hits and just have fun whilst you have bb's in ya gun and power in ya battery

(or gas)

Oh and don't call out to your team the enemy is behind that tree - often there is a LOT of the green/brown things

you'll be fine, don't fret over the score too much, the best days are often the smiles you get not the K-D crap

 

[Prisce]

100% agree @Sitting Duck, actually thought about quitting Airsoft until I started playing with my “team”, we do go out to complete objectives, but the main reason we go out is to have fun( hence the springer pistols and soft plush “knives”). 

Go out, have fun, don’t let anyone get you down. If you have someone to go with, makes it  more fun, if you don’t, make sure you make some effort to be friendly on site, you never know, could make the best game day you’ve had. It did me.

 

[Crimsonknight3]

To each their own - some do mil-sim, others skirmish, others have a mess about

Some just plink

Me, it is just a toy gun and me hauling my ol' ar$e out of chair to try to shoot people trying to shoot me

often it is me wearing a trail back to respawn coz I suck at this

it is just big kids refusing to grow up

bring a gun, bit of safety sense & eyepro, leave ya ego in the safe zone and have a bit of fun

avoid the twats, don't get stressed, call ya hits and just have fun whilst you have bb's in ya gun and power in ya battery

(or gas)

Oh and don't call out to your team the enemy is behind that tree - often there is a LOT of the green/brown things

you'll be fine, don't fret over the score too much, the best days are often the smiles you get not the K-D crap

Click to shrink...

Made me laugh haha 

I see skirmishing as a laugh, somewhere to have fun, get muddy, get target practice, meet new people and improve my skills >.< I LOVE the tactical side of things. When I was 16 I did a 5-day "army taster course" at Basingborne barracks. Sneaking around at 2am, trying to evade the recruits who had been in basic training for about 9 months was just about the most fun I've ever had!! (Read: Sacrificing the 15-year-old kid who kept moaning they were tired and cold to a passing patrol to take them off our scent long enough for us to evade was probably the high point!! >.< We managed to make it to all 5 checkpoints without being captured, next day we were allowed an extra hour in bed, the recruits who failed were given 2 hours extra pt lmao Would also be quite fun to put the camo lesson to the test, using your surroundings to make your own camo (at least for milsims, would probably take too long and be a waste of effort for skirmishes) 

That's just some of the reason I'm aiming toward milsim, after using skirmishes to have fun and improve some skills, also meeting some people who I could play regularly with would be awesome Whole point I need a hobby is to get a break from my partner and kids as I pretty much haven't had a break for more than an hour or two since our 5yo was born! lol 

Note about the kid we sacrificed, he was cable tied, had a pillow case put over his head and dropped knee deep into the lake when he started gobbing off to the recruits lol 

 

[Crimsonknight3]

Recouping after my first game >.< The gun performed quite well, though the shop stated it was firing at 345fps +- 2 and when chrono'd on the day it was running at 333 +- 3 also the inner AND outer barrel both appear to be slightly bent (BB's taking a big right curve at ranges above 15m) but I managed to compensate for the day. 

It was muddy, raining and f*cking cold, but still had a really good day out. Threw myself into the game (and had the piss taken a few times as it became a habit of the day to faceplant the mud). Snapped the end of the outer barrel off the gun during my 2nd tumble, super glued it and it lasted the rest of the day (and further 4 or 5 falls into the drink, including one barrel first plunge into a slippy muddy hill which filled the end of the barrel with mud). So, all in all, a really good day out!! 

Got the gun apart now for cleaning, and I wanted to say that the shimming on the gears is actually really good considering its a plastic gearbox, an effort was definitely made. However, the grease is already full of minute metal particles from the sintered metal gears. I tested the air seal by trying to push the piston in with the air nozzle plugged with my finger and I pretty much couldn't budge the piston at all, and it didn't move when held with a lot of pressure for a couple of minutes so overall not too bad. Definitely, need to replace the guns shell and inner barrel though if I want the gun to shoot straight! lol 

Am advertising here on the wanted page for a shell and going to order a barrel next payday. Otherwise ill reuse most of these internals for the next few months as they seem to be adequate 

[Edit] oh also the gears in the gearbox are marked SRC hahaha

[Edit edit] 375/380mm Inner barrels are bloody hard to find! Better off just dealing with the compensating for long enough to buy a gun that comes with straight barrel pre-installed  lmao 

 

[Hangtight]

Is unlikely to be a bent barrel causing the curving shots. Much more likely to be the hop up putting a degree of side spin as well as back spin on the BBs causing them to 'hook'.

 

[Crimsonknight3]

Is unlikely to be a bent barrel causing the curving shots. Much more likely to be the hop up putting a degree of side spin as well as back spin on the BBs causing them to 'hook'.

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Well, I did notice the little lip of the bucking had a small thread ripping off the edge, could have been imparting a bit of spin. I am still fairly sure the barrel is bent though. I've taken the bucking off and ordering another, and possibly a full alloy hop up instead of 1/2 metal 1/2 plastic which I can impart on my new gun next year if that happens to have a crappy one as well. I'll also point out that the bending to the right was happening with 0 hop up. That is, I didn't have time to adjust it and didn't know which direction to turn the gear (Turns out either direction turns hop up up lol) 

 

[Hangtight]

Squint down the barrel. Any bend will be obvious.