Sniper..AEG

SimonQuigley

SimonQuigley

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so i've been getting bored of playing pistols only CQB so i wanted to start playing field, but im stuck for choice between a G36C or a L96, if i cant decide i'll just get a fancy UMP for CQB, but suggestions would be appreciated.

 
They are all very different style weapons.

An L96 single shot bolt action is only really suitable for stand off sniper action.

The 36 or UMP, obviously both H&K are very different in reality applications (calibre and use) but similar in Airsoft in that they are AEG.

I have the UMP with optics and it is very versatile in that I can use it for both close up work and longer range stuff with the sight.

The folding stock is useful. I have the suppressor as I find the noise is more realistic, but the added length is not always desirable - supressor easily removable on the G&G model.

The suppressor from G&G shows BB strike marks very easily.

Note the UMP magazine is very long and not easy to fit in mag pouches - I use a double clamp arrangement in the field. Also restricts handling in the prone position.

Both weapons are largely polymer and quite light.

 
Get an AEG, a sniper is going to be substantially more expensive if you want it to be worth using.

 
If you want an AEG that's good for woodland and will work for CQB also, should you decide that pistol only isn't doing it for you on the CQB front, you might want to consider a G36K - not much heavier than the lightweight C variant but slightly more accurate at distance.

It's about £200-250 on top of the base gun to get a sniper rifle skirmishable, although it can be cheaper to do it with an A&K Dragunov SVD, because the base rifle has an excellent piston and cylinder as stock and you can get the bits you do need from the Czech Republic and Poland.

 
See a few people buy bolt snipers then only use them once or twice, get a decent base for your Aeg then tightbore it and you will get comparable single shot accuracy using .28's (but have auto in reserve for when you get closer).

Well, that is what i do anyways.

This is mine :

319929_10151432692873353_1731792564_n.jpg


 
quick note that no one has mentoned yet: Generally barrel length has very little to do with range or accuracy when it comes to airsoft guns.

An MP5k can be an effective woodland gun with decent hop and appropriate FPS. It really gets me when people come out with statements (no one in this thread, but we've all seen it) like "get an M16 or a 14inch M4 for woodland, the long barrel will help."

I call bullshit on that, my MP7 will outshoot an awful lot of 'long guns' (including one sniper yesterday who's shots were falling short as I was cleanly hitting his head, lolz) and it has a 145mm inner barrel, less than a third of the length of a 14inch M4. It's the hop up that has made that difference, nothing else.

Reference spring snipers... it might make a difference, but for anything else, longer isn't necessarily better for anything other than poking trees.

 
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well the barrel needs spacers as well. or it will rattle and be less accurate. it helps a little but like you said. most things can be made to have distance and accuracy with the right parts.

 
Moose87 : It's a TM G3A3 SG-1, replaced the front with a rail set (though the original isn't bad), Prometheus tight-bore barrel, M1000 motor. Not bothered with Lipo or mosfet as it is powered by a 3800 large cell in the stock that balances the weight nicely & the TM trigger feels just right.

Scope is a nice low profile one i got from my friend Taz (2-8x zoom via smooth dial ring, green & red illumination over 5 levels each). I ditched the bi pod soon after as the grip is a 5 point so i just flip it to the front 45 degrees and it gives a nice stable firing platform without the setup hassle of a bi pod.

 
Zyras said:
Moose87 : It's a TM G3A3 SG-1, replaced the front with a rail set (though the original isn't bad), Prometheus tight-bore barrel, M1000 motor. Not bothered with Lipo or mosfet as it is powered by a 3800 large cell in the stock that balances the weight nicely & the TM trigger feels just right.

Scope is a nice low profile one i got from my friend Taz (2-8x zoom via smooth dial ring, green & red illumination over 5 levels each). I ditched the bi pod soon after as the grip is a 5 point so i just flip it to the front 45 degrees and it gives a nice stable firing platform without the setup hassle of a bi pod.
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you should defo buy a first factory msg90 front end kit, then a psg1 stock and psg1 grip and will look beast

 
A longer barrel produces higher FPS from the same spring/nozzle/hop set up.

Accuracy is extremely dependent on the cone of possible trajectories that the BB can follow when it leaves the muzzle. We know from the way that TK Hop Twist barrels work that something which affects the width of this cone is the airflow that passes around the BB in the barrel. The rifled TK barrel causes that airflow to average out the effect of the times the BB bounces against the inside of the barrel however gravity will always make more of them act in the vertical plane than horizontal, which means that, on average, there will be a higher percentage of air passing the BB on either side than above and below, which must thus narrow the cone on the horizontal plane.

A longer barrel will allow more time for this effect to take place. I have no doubt that some short guns can both outrange and shoot more accurately than some long, for eg my AKS-74U now shoots further and more accurately with a barrel that is about 40mm shorter than before, but made from chromed brass rather than brass, and 6.02mm wide (also I upgraded the spring to M105 from M100). However my G36KV fired further and more accurately with just a barrel swap to 455mm x 6.04mm from 385-or whatever the stock one was. I can also say with certainty that a stock SRC G36KV is more accurate than a stock SRC G36C.

Also, I don't know what spring sniper rifles you are comparing your AEG to, Zyras, or at what range, but at 60m I'd bet my left bollock on my SVD to outperform your G3 and at 80m+ there just wouldn't be any competition.

 
Depends on what has been done to the insides Ian and, i suppose, how good the rifles are that you are against...

I have no doubt that target for target, on a range, a well setup bolty with care and upgrades will do much better. But on the field (and once you know where the sods are AND if they missed with their previous shot) i would prefer my SG-1 (even though i own a druganov and an MB-10).

Which reminds me, need to clean the barrels before this sundays game.

 
Frizzle : Just had a look at that front end, looks nice, kinda like the standard but without the bipod arms.

 
Zyras said:
Depends on what has been done to the insides Ian and, i suppose, how good the rifles are that you are against...

I have no doubt that target for target, on a range, a well setup bolty with care and upgrades will do much better. But on the field (and once you know where the sods are AND if they missed with their previous shot) i would prefer my SG-1 (even though i own a druganov and an MB-10).

Which reminds me, need to clean the barrels before this sundays game.
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And if you can get close enough to hit anything smaller than a shed before the "sods" can cock, correct for wind, and fire again. I've only sniped in the field for 3 days so far but, with the extended cocking handle on my SVD and a layer of goalie-glove-palm as a pad on the butt (so it sticks to my shoulder), I can keep it just about on target as I re-cock and do it pretty quickly.

My only real obstacles to owning pretty much anybody I can see on a woodland site are inconsistency in wind and/or being unable to see my white BB's against the target's background, so being unable to correct by precise holds and favours.

Ed, if you're reading this, how long would you say the range field @Skirmish is, from the net that divides it from the hyperball field to the treeline?

 
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