Piston stripped

[Cheeky vimto]

If you was local I'd lend you mine m8 when ya ready to do final test

My local shop is about 20 minute drive away. They let me use there's but that's a ball ache driving there and back each time. I'm thinking m120 with 3 teeth off, the go Chrono.

 

[Sitting Duck]

Go with two teeth first as all gun builds are different, if you really really want to short stroke

if you are just a tad tad over say up to 360/365 then you "could" leave her cocked over weekend to lose a bit of tension

then you "may" get to 350 after she lost some spring tension perhaps

to remove 3 may be a tiny bit too much and you can't put teeth back on

also each spring and deffo each gun is different - shs m120's may be more like a m125 brand new out of box

I also think unless you are sure your G&G spring may not quite be hitting 350 especially if it was still old stock G&G spring

(usually they hit 330 out of box and drop a little more after a while)

to remove 3 teeth you gotta get a half steel/plastic one - and you know not to get a full metal tooth piston

I gotta ask this though:

How friggin' fast do you want to shoot ???

Are your mags gonna feed ok at near 40rps ???

plus there comes a point when you won't notice such an increase

eg: 15 to 20rps - deffo notice but 35 to 40rps not really easy to notice the difference

me personally get a 3 metal piston and get gun working on nimah's

see if you can try out a 30c 7.4v for a while - maybe that would be safer nearer 30 than mental 40 with all the work and possible mag feed issues, plus if you stay sensible then you can just pop in new piston and get going again without all the extra work for higher speed

Higher speed builds - especially the more crazy stuff will require lighter pistons and plastic pom piston heads

lose piston bearing & swiss cheese (in moderation) - this all reduces weight to help piston return quickly

me I avoid piston bearings - they can come undone but also that is about 3.5gms saved by dropping bearings

use a bearing spring guide instead to avoid spring twist - same as piston bearing but means piston is lighter

avoid heavier alluminium piston heads in very high speed builds as they can weigh 6 or 7gms on the double O-ring kind

a full complete piston can weigh 15gms to 30gms on full metal piston with bearings & double O-ring piston head,

all that extra weigh gained/lost can make quite a difference to how quick the piston returns

so unless you want to do more homework and all that - I'd try a 7.4v 30c battery first perhaps

And if you are sailing that close to wind or PE you do NOT want a full metal piston

half/half would be max - especially as we both are still learning

you must have a weak point in your box - the plastic pick up & first few teeth at least

if she PE's you do minor damage usually just to piston

full metal & PE = MEGA BAAAAAANNNNNNNGGGGGGGGG

yes higher speed builds can/do use metal for strength and long life piston but they have well n truely short stroked

or using only half the teeth like 8 steel teeth on DSG's - but they know what they are doing

Us noobs learning by our mistakes or rather breaks are not so talented and clever techy mofo's so best play safe

I know I do talk bollox most of the time but trust me I have learnt a bit lately by making many mistakes too

especially when taking the piss a bit

 

[Cheeky vimto]

Go with two teeth first as all gun builds are different, if you really really want to short stroke

if you are just a tad tad over say up to 360/365 then you "could" leave her cocked over weekend to lose a bit of tension

then you "may" get to 350 after she lost some spring tension perhaps

to remove 3 may be a tiny bit too much and you can't put teeth back on

also each spring and deffo each gun is different - shs m120's may be more like a m125 brand new out of box

I also think unless you are sure your G&G spring may not quite be hitting 350 especially if it was still old stock G&G spring

(usually they hit 330 out of box and drop a little more after a while)

to remove 3 teeth you gotta get a half steel/plastic one - and you know not to get a full metal tooth piston

I gotta ask this though:

How friggin' fast do you want to shoot ???

Are your mags gonna feed ok at near 40rps ???

plus there comes a point when you won't notice such an increase

eg: 15 to 20rps - deffo notice but 35 to 40rps not really easy to notice the difference

me personally get a 3 metal piston and get gun working on nimah's

see if you can try out a 30c 7.4v for a while - maybe that would be safer nearer 30 than mental 40 with all the work and possible mag feed issues

Higher speed builds - especially the more crazy stuff will require lighter pistons and plastic pom piston heads

lose piston bearing & swiss cheese (in moderation) - this all reduces weight to help piston return quickly

me I avoid piston bearings - they can come undone but also that is about 3.5gms saved by dropping bearings

use a bearing spring guide instead to avoid spring twist - same as piston bearing but means piston is lighter

avoid heavier alluminium piston heads in very high speed builds as they can weigh 6 or 7gms on the double O-ring kind

a full complete piston can weigh 15gms to 30gms, that extra weigh gained/lost can make quite a difference

so unless you want to do more homework and all that - I'd try a 7.4v 30c battery first perhaps

I'm going to my local today to pick up another piston and put it back to how I had it just for this weekend.

My last game where I was chrino'd was strange. My first shot came in at 374 then it fluctuated; 330,365,340,370,345,38,350. All those reading were off the stock G&G spring. I didn't think they were going to let me play but as the averages were dropping they allowed it.

I want it to be as quick as I can make it. It's a hobby, and a part of that for me at least is pissing about with the toys

I will short stroke it, it's just unfortunate this has happened 2 days before a planned game. My friend has a couple 7.4 lipo's so I might try one over the weekend. And I right in thinking it shouldn't increase ROF, just trigger response?

 

[Sitting Duck]

I'm going to my local today to pick up another piston and put it back to how I had it just for this weekend.

My last game where I was chrino'd was strange. My first shot came in at 374 then it fluctuated; 330,365,340,370,345,38,350. All those reading were off the stock G&G spring. I didn't think they were going to let me play but as the averages were dropping they allowed it.

I want it to be as quick as I can make it. It's a hobby, and a part of that for me at least is pissing about with the toys

I will short stroke it, it's just unfortunate this has happened 2 days before a planned game. My friend has a couple 7.4 lipo's so I might try one over the weekend. And I right in thinking it shouldn't increase ROF, just trigger response?

check your mags can feed at silly speeds - remember faster rof = shorter life (usually)

trigger response & rof "kind of" go hand in hand though

YES THEY ARE DIFFERENT - before anybody flames me

but they are "kind of linked" in the way a 40rps gun will fire/respond much quicker than a 20rps

Good decent lipo's piss all over the old skool - them nimah's don't have the ooomph that decent higher burst lipo's have when you pull the trigger

mental techy's go for 40-60c+ lipo's but for a tweaked gun you should aim for 25c min, pref 30c should be fine for most

a good lipo - check the burst or C rating will ensure she is supplied with enough juice off the trigger and if your wire is upgraded it will keep chucking juice to that greedy motor and run much better than 8.4v - honest

I have bought some 11.1v's and also some 9.9v LiFe's too but if I tweak the gun properly I can't see me using the higher batteries that much when good 7.4v's provide great results, plus can get the 7.4v's cheaper and coz they aren't so fat as 11.1v's I can get higher burst/amp batteries in same space/price range as 11.1v batteries

your gun is fluctuating a bit though 330 - 370 maybe 38 - you mean 380 - that is quite a bit

check all seals - especially piston's o-ring & cylinder head is mega good

370 or 380 - yeah that ain't no m100 in there

 

[Cheeky vimto]

check your mags can feed at silly speeds - remember faster rof = shorter life (usually)

trigger response & rof "kind of" go hand in hand though

YES THEY ARE DIFFERENT - before anybody flames me

but they are "kind of linked" in the way a 40rps gun will fire/respond much quicker than a 20rps

Good decent lipo's piss all over the old skool - them nimah's don't have the ooomph that decent higher burst lipo's have when you pull the trigger

mental techy's go for 40-60c+ lipo's but for a tweaked gun you should aim for 25c min, pref 30c should be fine for most

a good lipo - check the burst or C rating will ensure she is supplied with enough juice off the trigger and if your wire is upgraded it will keep chucking juice to that greedy motor and run much better than 8.4v - honest

I have bought some 11.1v's and also some 9.9v LiFe's too but if I tweak the gun properly I can't see me using the higher batteries that much when good 7.4v's provide great results, plus can get the 7.4v's cheaper and coz they aren't so fat as 11.1v's I can get higher burst/amp batteries in same space/price range as 11.1v batteries

your gun is fluctuating a bit though 330 - 370 maybe 38 - you mean 380 - that is quite a bit

check all seals - especially piston's o-ring & cylinder head is mega good

370 or 380 - yeah that ain't no m100 in there

Picked up another plastic SHS piston today and reassembled. It doesn't sound as smooth as it did do before the lipos but I got it Chrono at my local and it's shooting between 345-350. I'm going to leave it like that for now.

I might just leave the 11.1v lipo's alone and go for 7.4v. Have you ever tried to send back stuff to component shop?

 

[Sitting Duck]

Nope - could always ring them and see if they can exchange or part ex it

say you really thought your gun was fully lipo ready and ordered it in good faith but it busted my gun.....

they may then consider swapping it for one of their 7.4v's rather than no way it has been used/charged so warranty void etc.....

worth a shot

failing that keep it or ebay it

try n see which of their 7.4v's would fit/work with best C & mah ratings in your gun's battery compartment

(or other gun's battery compartment)

then give them a bell - can only ask

I fit them stubby stocks on my M4's as it means I can then shove in almost any block type batteries

These block batteries are cheaper than the more bespoke "airsoft" nunchuck/stick type batteries

plus have a massive choice of size/shape/ratings to choose from as well as less fiddling about changing them at lunchtime

if you try out a 7.4v and are happy with results then run with 7.4v if/when nimah's start to get old or sell on the nimah's

anyway if you are happy with 7.4v's then there would be no real need to go nutz short stroking on that gun if she is ok

(if it ain't broke don't try to fix or tweak it is the motto we all should remember)

But if you end up keeping the 11.1v then maybe your next gun upgrade can use that and look into short stroking another tweaked gun

the results would be a massive difference eg: old gun you broke hitting 27rps on 7.4v

next gun leave in stock gears but 11.1v & neodym motor = 30rps say or 40 if you do 12:1

but doing 40rps means paying for new set of gears, new piston with 3 or half teeth plus more modding

all to go from 30 to 40 and pretty sure possible shorten the life span a little at that high 30 to 40 speed

(that is dsg performance and those dsg boxes don't last as long as decent stock boxes no matter how much you spend on building it)

 

[Cheeky vimto]

Nope - could always ring them and see if they can exchange or part ex it

say you really thought your gun was fully lipo ready and ordered it in good faith but it busted my gun.....

they may then consider swapping it for one of their 7.4v's rather than no way it has been used/charged so warranty void etc.....

worth a shot

failing that keep it or ebay it

try n see which of their 7.4v's would fit/work with best C & mah ratings in your gun's battery compartment

(or other gun's battery compartment)

then give them a bell - can only ask

I fit them stubby stocks on my M4's as it means I can then shove in almost any block type batteries

These block batteries are cheaper than the more bespoke "airsoft" nunchuck/stick type batteries

plus have a massive choice of size/shape/ratings to choose from as well as less fiddling about changing them at lunchtime

Phoned them today and told them I ordered the wrong size voltage and needed a 7.4. They said send it back and they'll send out a replacement; same size mAh and C rating. If they do what they say they will I think I'll order a couple more off them

I was looking in combat south today at 7.4vs and they were £25! What a rip off. Their 11.1v were cheaper at £20.

 

[Sitting Duck]

Hobbyking - end of

What peeps need to do is get a few of your m8's to club together

Hopefully you can order up some of the same beefy types that fit in ya guns

coz if you go onto that page - wait leave page and discount offer pops up - aprox 8% offer

but if navigate away the offer won't come back - well it will if you reboot pc or use other pc

this offer may work on 1 type of battery discount - if ordering 3 types of lipo's you may only get discount on 1 of the 3 types

anyway they ship mainly from 3 places

UK - but they don't seem to stock crane/nunchuck/ or "airsoft batteries"

Airsoft or nunchuck seem to only come from europe or worldwide - usually hong kong depots

Look carefully at link/stock locations - worldwide is cheapest but shipping is more/time to arrive

UK is quickest of course but prices are highest per battery

I ordered what I thought was Europe batteries but order was placed in hong kong and took over 3 weeks

luckily it got through ok - phew no duty paid to robbing bastids RM

Also it seems UK & Worldwide has shipping weight bands of up to 1kg then shipping jumps a bit

However - Europe/Netherlands the shipping don't jump - heck I made up a 6kg+ shopping cart and shipping was still same as 950gms

(no I didn't buy that many batteries - jeeez)

Europe might be best option for AIRSOFT stick/nunchuck batteries as UK don't do them it seems

won't get clobbered with chance of importy duty from hong kong - should be ok but still a chance with china stuff

plus shipping from europe is say 5 days instead of 3 weeks say from hong kong

PAY VERY VERY CLOSE ATTENTION TO DIMENSIONS - use a digital micrometer/gauge to suss out what may/may not fit

get a m8 or a few m8's to go in with ya to split shipping - then you can get some mofo batteries very very cheaply

test out a few of your m8's 7.4v 25c lipo's first - no need to rush out and go nutz on loads of lipo's just yet

see the results for yourself and go from there - if they got a 25c 7.4v I think you should be happy with the results if gun wired up nicely

 

[Cheeky vimto]

Hobbyking - end of

What peeps need to do is get a few of your m8's to club together

Component shop is decent enough, about £11 for 7.4v's.

 

[Sitting Duck]

Component shop is decent enough, about £11 for 7.4v's.

agreed - its the service as well that also counts and if they swap battery then they got extra kudos points from all on here too

just saying if you was thinking of buying/upgrading yours & ya m8's nimahs at some point hobbyking are worth a look if you club together

 

[Cheeky vimto]

agreed - its the service as well that also counts and if they swap battery then they got extra kudos points from all on here too

just saying if you was thinking of buying/upgrading yours & ya m8's nimahs at some point hobbyking are worth a look if you club together

They're all on 7.4v's lipos, I'm the last one!

 

[Sitting Duck]

They're all on 7.4v's lipos, I'm the last one!

lol - don't tell me, you bought up some of their old nimah's when they upgraded to lipo

actually we do still use the 9.6v nimah's, hence me bought a few LiFe's @ 9.9v

but recently found out the LiFe's have limited range of size/shape and only go to 20c or 25c max

LiPo's - bloomin' loads n loads of types/shapes/sizes/ratings to choose from

 

[Cheeky vimto]

lol - don't tell me, you bought up some of their old nimah's when they upgraded to lipo

actually we do still use the 9.6v nimah's, hence me bought a few LiFe's @ 9.9v

but recently found out the LiFe's have limited range of size/shape and only go to 20c or 25c max

LiPo's - bloomin' loads n loads of types/shapes/sizes/ratings to choose from

Haha no, they've only been playing for about 2 months and went straight to lipos.

I did look at LiFe's. I read they're supposed to be just as good as LiPo but don't run any risks of accidental fires. What'd you think of them?

 

[Sitting Duck]

I was impressed with them on stock guns but tbh I recently found out their 20c rating let them down a bit on tweaked beefed up guns

Either that or they are crapping out on me - but deffo didn't provide the expect bridge between 7.4v & 11.1v lipo's

They deffo did provide the gap on stock guns and mildly tweaked guns

eg: stock gears & neo motor and silver wire gun

7.4v = 20rps

9.9v = 25rps

11.1v = 30rps

this is rough figure of a fet'd deans CM18 with SHS motor etc.....

BUT on higher build guns with thicker wire and seeking more juice (which thicker 15awg wire would supply) like the FH HC05

total stock wise it was hitting 22 & 33 on 11.1v - but when tested the Life 9.9v it wasn't much more than the 7.4v ????

the lipo's were 25c the life was a 20c but didn't hit the expected say 27 but nigh on same or +1 over 7.4v 25c

I mega tweaked the DSG and got 40 on 7.4v and thought leave it there and forget 11.1v and knew the LiFe would really struggle

to supply real oooommmppphhhhh now when it wasn't quite cutting the stock dsg demands on short stroke m160 spring in there

so yeah I am not so sure about LiFe's now on more juice or burst demanding setups as they only go to 25c - usually 20c is norm

stock or mild setups yeah they could be a good option to not cane your gun/contacts if not fet'd

beefier setups - ergh no, do it properly and use/try 30c 7.4v lipo's is my feeling/findings at this moment in time

Think lipo's have improved and I haven't yet burnt my house down just yet

Think LiFe's were mainly thought to not suffer the possible damage risk like lipo's if you run them out of juice

on LiPo's if they drop too low volts they can die - LiFe's are not supposed to do this if they get drained I was lead to think

but never leave any battery unchecked and charge them on a worktop/bench not on bed/carpet & pop out up the road/shops