Nuprol Pioneer Defender Upgrades

once you've got it poked into the right position it should naturally sit right.

bearing in mind the spring guide is how the stock bolts on so once you have the stock bolted it won't move.

 
Spartan09 said:
I also anticipate the need to fit the airlab sorbothane pad due to the increased stress caused by the strong spring
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Sorbo isn't used to counter spring force. It's used to lower piston slap and correct AOE if needed. Personally I prefer the silent head system as it corrects AOE and adds some damping. The element silent head set is usually about £10, and replaces the cylinder and piston head. You can also build a set using AK2M4 for about the same money with the rocket airsoft stuff. It's up to you the path you take with that, If you do any modifications at all. The AOE correction isn't as big an issue as you would think, It helps, but it's not a difference you could tell by picking up a gun and shooting it, and you probably wouldn't know if you used the gun for a year without the modifications. It's more a peace of mind thing IMO.

Gearboxes are generally fine up to USA spec. So 400+ fps. The UK market runs underpowered and doesn't really need the same level of modifications.

The spring force counter is to radius the front of the gearbox where the cut out for the cylinder is. This removal of the sharp corners stops a stress fracture happening right on that corner that over time can cause the front of the gearbox to fall off. It's not an essential modification IMO unless you know the gun you have has had issues with gearbox quality, or you are planning on running a 400fps+ DMR.

It's also a modification you can not do without having the cylinder out of the gun, so it'll have to wait until you are ready to crack open the gearbox.

 
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Spartan09 said:
I literally just realised this as you replied...   im an idiot.
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No, you're not.  None of this is obvious until you've done it both wrong and then right.  There are no real standards, everything is approximate, and the slightest changes can make big differences.

Case in point, I just managed to get a quite unintended 375fps out of an M100 spring and a 229mm barrel, just by getting the air seal spot on entirely by accident.

How's yours looking now?

 
Rogerborg said:
How's yours looking now?
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Well, i am unable to test it tonight, a tiny spring on the side of the gearbox just went spinging off into the carpet after i accidentally caught it ...   4 hours of searching and i still cant find it. Nor could i find a suitable replacement anywhere in my house.

i will have to pay my brother a visit tomorrow and try to scrounge a spare from him....

(i know he still has all the gearbox parts from when he gutted his M4 to make an HPA build, i just have to pray hes in a charitable mood)

 
Spartan09 said:
Well, i am unable to test it tonight, a tiny spring on the side of the gearbox just went spinging off into the carpet after i accidentally caught it ...   4 hours of searching and i still cant find it. Nor could i find a suitable replacement anywhere in my house.
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A big magnet on a stick is your friend - Saved me a few times when tiny metal screws and springs are lost in the abyss of my living room carpet.

 
Spartan09 said:
a tiny spring on the side of the gearbox just went spinging off into the carpet after i accidentally caught it
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The selector plate to cut off lever spring?  Little sods, I'm just after losing one.  Yup, magnets, magnets, magnets.

And again, they're not a standard size.  I bought a spring set but both of the included springs were too large.  In the end, I had to go to https://springsandthings.me.uk/ although it seems the spring from inside a wheel-spark lighter might work.

Thread with links and sizes:




 
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Spartan09 said:
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Here's some of my observations since I've been working to get my own springs made.

Some of the cheaper Chinese brands will use shorter linear springs because they're less prone to lose force / power over time.  Generally they use slightly thicker wire as well, 1.4mm and maybe aren't tempered.  This means they can produce a slightly more reliable spring with much cheaper grade wire.  An Airsoft spring compresses down to around 60mm.  The mid-range springs will generally lose between 5 and 10% power after the first 1000 cycles. 

The real decent springs use high-grade steel.  The new ones I've got in the pipeline use Japanese valve spring steel designed to keep their shape and length under high load and temperature.  So far in testing the M110 it hasn't lost any length, pretty impressive steel.

 
ak2m4 said:
The real decent springs use high-grade steel.  The new ones I've got in the pipeline use Japanese valve spring steel designed to keep their shape and length under high load and temperature.  So far in testing the M110 it hasn't lost any length, pretty impressive steel.
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Please tell me you will be doing an M90 and where can I pre-order?

 
Oops..   forgot to update here...  

Rechronoed the gun, and with m105 spring i was getting around 300fps on .2s, but had a few shots reach approx 330fps.

Going to take it to duty calls tomorrow along with tools and m100 and original springs...  will see what happens on the day. (Will be taking my other guns as backups as well ? )

 
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