Nightmare Asg M15 ?

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FirsthandSnow

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So i got this M15 second hand and with a day it had malfunctioned and the gun was firing in full auto on semi.

As a complete novice at teching, I decided to give it a go. 

I replaced the cut off lever, piston head, nozzle, gears, shimmed the gear box and can disassemble and reassemble the gear box with ease now.

I separated the trigger contacts a little and used a new trigger trolley and trigger. 

I fixed the problem, for a time, then it started again and no matter how the trigger contacts are positioned, the gun won't fire in semi.

I'm only using a 9.6v NiMh and even with and 8.4v NiMh its the same story.

Before I bother doing a solder job and replacing the contacts, is there a simple easy fix I'm missing? 

Many thanks guys :)

 
is the cutoff lever the right one for the box?

whilst these things are technically compatible, they aren't really, and x brand of cutoff lever in y brand box might work perfectly, or might not work at all.

test it by hand, make sure the lever really is positively disengaging the trigger.

 
Hi, the selector plate, spring and cut off lever are all new. The lever is a V2 one from AK2M4, identical to the original and moves as the selector plate moves, so I am assuming they are working correctly together.

I changed the trigger trolley but not the contacts, that was going to be my next bit of troubleshooting. It seems to be the closer the contacts are together and slowly squeezing the trigger the more it fires full auto, the further apart, at a point where I'm having to really squeeze the trigger HARD, is when I can make a semi auto shot, there is no in-between... 

Many thanks 

 
FirsthandSnow said:
Hi, the selector plate, spring and cut off lever are all new. The lever is a V2 one from AK2M4, identical to the original and moves as the selector plate moves, so I am assuming they are working correctly together.
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i was meaning that in semi does the cutoff lever move on it's cam far enough to kick the trolley?

it might look identical but the devil's in the details.

 
Split the box and with the trigger pulled rotate the sector gear to get the cam to trip the cutoff.

 
Hi, okay, will try that this evening. But does that explain how changing the trigger contact position makes things worse?

When I make them narrow with a 1mm or 2mm gap I only have to pull the trigger a little and the gearbox starts cycling full auto, as if the trigger hasn't pushed the trolley far enough in for the cut off lever to catch, but the electrical connection is made. 

I'm a novice as you can tell so apologies.

Many thanks, I will try what you said and report back this evening :)

 
FirsthandSnow said:
Hi, okay, will try that this evening. But does that explain how changing the trigger contact position makes things worse?

When I make them narrow with a 1mm or 2mm gap I only have to pull the trigger a little and the gearbox starts cycling full auto, as if the trigger hasn't pushed the trolley far enough in for the cut off lever to catch, but the electrical connection is made. 

I'm a novice as you can tell so apologies.

Many thanks, I will try what you said and report back this evening :)
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it is indeed possible to have the contact being made early, best way to tell is if it'll run semi if you pull the trigger quick enough to get the trolley in position for the cutoff lever to kick it.

 
Hi all, a little update. 

I went to a local airsoft store and took the rifle with me. They said with all the parts new, off the tops of their heads they couldn't pin point anything, but if I leave it with them its a charge of £40 and they may never get to the bottom of it, an electrical gremlin as they called it.

So I decided to be a stubborn bastard and take a used V2 gearbox from them, as a last resort.

Got home and swapped everything over to the used gearbox and IT ONLY GOD DAMN WORKS!

I could only put it down to the stripped cut off lever screw hole ?‍♂️

Thanks for the help guys :)

 
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