Ian_Gere
Retired Moderator
- Apr 1, 2012
- 6,417
- 2,050
Well, other people have said all that's necessary concerning your choices. Unless you're prepared to see the real arsey side of justbollocksguns customer 'service' and send your guns back for a refund, then start again (which I recommend to you as your best course of action), then we'll just have to work with what you have...
SRC do make good G36's - I have one and I'm happy with it. However, mine was a Gen III from the start and i think Adam's is too. To get it up to skirmishable spec I felt mine needed a new hop rubber (also known as a "hop bucking"), which is a piece of advice i've seen written by many SRC G36 owners. Personally I chose a Systema rubber, but at least 1/2 of that decision was just because I wanted to see if Systema stuff is as good as the prices suggest - verdict: no, it isn't; it works for range* but it does nothing to help accuracy - you'd be better off with a CYMA (controversial, but trust me, the split bump centres the BB in the barrel very well), or a Falcon, or PDI W Hold, or the expensive option: a Prometheus Purple used with an H-nub (which can also be called X spacer, fishbone spacer, or hop up cushion).
I also wanted a new air seal nozzle, but fitting that requires opening the gearbox, so unless you're prepared to use your 1st AEG to learn how to break them down and put them back together, you might prefer not to do so. If you do, be aware that SRC G36 nozzles are not the same size as the various TM clone/compatible types (that's also true of the hop unit itself). It's easy enough to get them direct from SRC - email Mordred Chiang via [email protected]
The easiest way to get a Gen II up to spec, along with the rubber, would be to replace the inner barrel with a Madbull Black Python V2 6.03mm TBB. That will up your FPS to the mid-high 340's which will give you 5-10m extra effective range. Other than that, you'll get a better trigger response if you replace the wiring - you could get the expensive silvered stuff, but Component Shop 16AWG wire is fine. If you're not confident of your soldering skills, maybe get someone else to do it, because if you melt the plastic switch body, you'll have to open the gearbox to replace it.
Still, you say money is no object... even if you're not confident at fixing things, you could go ahead with a full upgrade for the learning experience, so as well as the above:
- Teflon Grease
- SHS 16:1 Gears
- G&P Copper Shims (use 1 against each side of the gear)
- ASG Ultimate Thin Shims
- Kanzen Ceramic Bearings
- SHS Nylon Piston w/ 15 Steel Teeth
- (or you could go with ICS Helical Gears [MC-108] & ICS Aluminium Piston w/ 15 Steel Teeth)
- SHS Aluminium Piston Head w/ double O-Rings & Bearings
- SHS Stainless Steel Spring Guide w/ Bearings for Ver 3 Gearbox
- SRC Aluminium Air Seal Nozzle
- SRC Metal Hop Up Unit
- AB MOSFET
Maybe also:
- ICS Turbo 3000 Motor (Short Type)
- Hardened Anti-Reversal Latch
- Lees Precision Engineering Piston Head O-Ring
- Lees Precision Engineering AOE Piston Head Shims
- Eotech 552 Replica w/ EOLAD laser
Regarding silicone oil - you can get it in a spray can, but i prefer it in a dropper bottle (Abbey). Put a drop or quick squirt into new mags and another if the mag misfeeds. On a G36 a little oil/grease under the charging handle helps. Some people recommend putting it down the barrel, or up the BB feed tube so it gets on the hop rubber "to keep it supple" - bollocks. Keep oil & grease out of the barrel if you can - for eg: when you oil a mag, fill it with BB's using a speedloader down the feed pipe, even if it's a hicap, and then push the little tab back to let the BB's spray out into a plastic bag - repeat 2x and throw the BB's away, don't fire them.
The gearbox works better when lubricated and it's easy to do on a V3 without opening - just take the plastic cover near the trigger off and drip/spray a little oil in.
There's nothing to be done with that pistol. It's a dead loss, but for very close up back up, like if you run out of BB's in your AEG when you're being overrun and haven't time to mag change, it'll be just about up to it.
SRC do make good G36's - I have one and I'm happy with it. However, mine was a Gen III from the start and i think Adam's is too. To get it up to skirmishable spec I felt mine needed a new hop rubber (also known as a "hop bucking"), which is a piece of advice i've seen written by many SRC G36 owners. Personally I chose a Systema rubber, but at least 1/2 of that decision was just because I wanted to see if Systema stuff is as good as the prices suggest - verdict: no, it isn't; it works for range* but it does nothing to help accuracy - you'd be better off with a CYMA (controversial, but trust me, the split bump centres the BB in the barrel very well), or a Falcon, or PDI W Hold, or the expensive option: a Prometheus Purple used with an H-nub (which can also be called X spacer, fishbone spacer, or hop up cushion).
I also wanted a new air seal nozzle, but fitting that requires opening the gearbox, so unless you're prepared to use your 1st AEG to learn how to break them down and put them back together, you might prefer not to do so. If you do, be aware that SRC G36 nozzles are not the same size as the various TM clone/compatible types (that's also true of the hop unit itself). It's easy enough to get them direct from SRC - email Mordred Chiang via [email protected]
The easiest way to get a Gen II up to spec, along with the rubber, would be to replace the inner barrel with a Madbull Black Python V2 6.03mm TBB. That will up your FPS to the mid-high 340's which will give you 5-10m extra effective range. Other than that, you'll get a better trigger response if you replace the wiring - you could get the expensive silvered stuff, but Component Shop 16AWG wire is fine. If you're not confident of your soldering skills, maybe get someone else to do it, because if you melt the plastic switch body, you'll have to open the gearbox to replace it.
Still, you say money is no object... even if you're not confident at fixing things, you could go ahead with a full upgrade for the learning experience, so as well as the above:
- Teflon Grease
- SHS 16:1 Gears
- G&P Copper Shims (use 1 against each side of the gear)
- ASG Ultimate Thin Shims
- Kanzen Ceramic Bearings
- SHS Nylon Piston w/ 15 Steel Teeth
- (or you could go with ICS Helical Gears [MC-108] & ICS Aluminium Piston w/ 15 Steel Teeth)
- SHS Aluminium Piston Head w/ double O-Rings & Bearings
- SHS Stainless Steel Spring Guide w/ Bearings for Ver 3 Gearbox
- SRC Aluminium Air Seal Nozzle
- SRC Metal Hop Up Unit
- AB MOSFET
Maybe also:
- ICS Turbo 3000 Motor (Short Type)
- Hardened Anti-Reversal Latch
- Lees Precision Engineering Piston Head O-Ring
- Lees Precision Engineering AOE Piston Head Shims
- Eotech 552 Replica w/ EOLAD laser
Regarding silicone oil - you can get it in a spray can, but i prefer it in a dropper bottle (Abbey). Put a drop or quick squirt into new mags and another if the mag misfeeds. On a G36 a little oil/grease under the charging handle helps. Some people recommend putting it down the barrel, or up the BB feed tube so it gets on the hop rubber "to keep it supple" - bollocks. Keep oil & grease out of the barrel if you can - for eg: when you oil a mag, fill it with BB's using a speedloader down the feed pipe, even if it's a hicap, and then push the little tab back to let the BB's spray out into a plastic bag - repeat 2x and throw the BB's away, don't fire them.
The gearbox works better when lubricated and it's easy to do on a V3 without opening - just take the plastic cover near the trigger off and drip/spray a little oil in.
There's nothing to be done with that pistol. It's a dead loss, but for very close up back up, like if you run out of BB's in your AEG when you're being overrun and haven't time to mag change, it'll be just about up to it.
