You SS'ed the piston instead of the gears? I'm confused, don't you have to SS the gears as well if you SS the piston?
Soz you are correct - I do both though really unless last tooth on sector is a very fat one like the one on right...
Stock pic- not my stuff - think the left one has been SS on release side mainly
DO NOT COPY THIS !!! I rarely SS on release as it can throw out tappet timing if not careful
Normally 16 teeth, take off 3 max
I once took 4 off but that was coz I f*cked up taking 2 off release instead of pick up side
I'd take 2 off pickup & 3rd tooth - hmm either or side if required
This pic shows a 16 tooth sector with large release tooth on right
BUT 11 teeth - jeez that is 5 removed and mostly seems to have come off release side
(you would need to seriously shorten the fin on tappet plate to get nozzle back in time to fire)
Please don't look at this and think I'll follow that example - this is not quite correct
just used it to show the large release tooth - and only that
don't mess up SS-ing like I did by following a bad guide or crap tutorial
jeez of all guides to pick I had to pick a muppet one - so don't be a muppet & copy this crap...
this is quite rare to find but if it was a larger release tooth on sector at the back - then yes must SS piston teeth too
I just do it anyway - normally a little grinding anyway to remove 2nd sometimes and a smidge off 3rd for AoE
You don't have to SS the piston rack really if all sector's teeth - or the last release tooth are same size
Anyway my OCD takes over when I'm swiss-ing the piston trying to save weight so 2 or 3 metal teeth go as required
SS sector gear the first 3 teeth
Then swiss the piston up top I only swiss up top & it is well swissed by the time I'm finished.....
2nd tooth no more if it was there, 3rd reduced and last 2 or 3 to match sector gear
Depending on piston's original weight & piston head a full (well almost full after SS 3 teeth off)
A full metal piston + head all complete can just just scrape under 20gms - usually just over at about 22gms
Which is still lighter than many stock plastic pistons with a great bit chunk metal spring spacer in them
(f*cking hate those sods - about 7.5gms them bastids weigh)
This pic is a extra swiss'd long SR25 19 tooth piston I have earmarked if I ever can bothered to do
The 3 x bevel gears was put in to show people how bevels can vary so much
look at how highly cut the middle teeth sit - a weird bevel but this was to demonstrate how it varies
Suffice to say with bevels that can vary in depth of teeth, bearings/bushings plus different shells/pinions
You can never just assume or guess that bevel shimming is about 0.20mm
often it can be very roughly about that much BUT have used 0.1m on a reduced/sanded bushing
(SHS 8mm bushings are very chunky) and in another v3 with loads of slack I have gone to 0.55mm
that sort of swiss cheesing crap & the general pattern/placings I stick too
(if I can be ar$ed = usually as I am weirdly OCD but get the hump if it isn't 101% symmetrical)
SS was to ensure that if some nutter popped a 11.1v in there at say 1.5 X 24rps = 36rps
it " should " be ok to avoid PE (just in my book)
but I smashed $hit up going a bit quicker on 12:1 gears
Mind you that was a 33/35c beefy 11.1v plus a high speed motor which ran warm
so if it was a mild 11.1v 20c it should be safe
still going a bit too quick & most likely over run a bit pushing over 35rps on a mild UK spec gun
The yanks were running 11.1v - look at the overspin in the second one with 16:1 gears
(lovely shimming though - like a Rogers "shut up gears..." example - no whine or shrill)
Hef's was set for snappiness without silly-ness say at Mall
mofo grip coz it had I reckon 15awg silicone wire in there - quite chunky/thick wiring
Everything done to squeeze max possible out of the gun/box on just 7.4v
