MOSFET for AUG high cycle

[Taiga]

So after my last post I got a wide rage of reply’s in how to install a mosfet and the reason they are so important.

ive now got all the connectors I need for a mosfet but I’m still wonder what mosfet to get.

I want a decent mosfet which will last, I don’t parically want it to directly affect the ROS of the gun per-say. (Not looking for one of the £100 plus programmable mosfet, just something affordable and reliable).

any recommendations would be appreciated.

 

[Sitting Duck]

Something like Gate Pico if space or area is tight....

yup that is a pico soldered direct to deans, anybody who says they have not room for a mosfet is not considering all the options

dunno how robust it is but the smallest one atm seems to be TWG's Perun titchy mofo...

http://www.taiwangun.com/en/wires-lasers/perun-mosfet-perun?from=listing&campaign-id=19

Don't know how awesome these are:

https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/mosfets

TBH - almost any half decent mosfet will suffice, I very much doubt if your Aug HC is pulling much more than 20amps

So is hardly going to fry a decent properly installed bit of soldering on a gun that is shimmed & running correctly etc....

A bit bigger Gate Nano SSR or ASR, can beupgraded easily to the Merf 3.2 or Warfet

I'd go with Nano ASR over SSR as it has an electronic fuse (I think, plus it is latest Nano)

BUT GATE have just launched their micro mosfet baby....

https://gatee.eu/products/aeg-mosfets/x-asr

holy crap - has a fuse too, don't think it is on sale just yet, prewired for noobs too

makes it a bit longer of course and ultra sad people won't want more connections

(yeah raises hand there on that bit - I'd go all one continous wiring (except to mosfet)

but a good innovative product to offer I feel  

TBH if you canbuy a half decent (not $hite chinese 3034 clone crap) basic mosfet for about £10 to £15

then it isn't worth building your own 3034 these days

Doubt if you need an insanely robust mosfet, mosfets have come a long way in the last 5 years or so

Most of these listed will be fine for what you need

Most mosfets blow due to bad install/shorts or a really really badly horrible shimmed gun ramping up the amps/watts

What you need to decide if you need AB

does your gun seriously overspin/cycle atm

If possible try to see if you can get away not using AB is my gut feeling

I know plenty use AB to stop over-spin/cycling but it can increase wear/heat on motor a little from AB

So I say if you can get away without AB then a regular mosfet will suffice

(plus if you take the pi$$ too much, on a long burst it will still PME no matter what)

So AB does NOT save your piston if you REALLY take the pi$$ in the end

GATE is a respected name/brand - the Jefftron ones are not quite so robust I have read

not got a clue about some other makes - I'm not a guru on mosfet brands tbh

I have bought a batch of cheap 3034's so mainly made my own

but mosfets have come a long way in the last few years so I'm not up to speed on reviews etc....

just decide if you need AB or not then almost anything decent will do if it fits

 

[Taiga]

Something like Gate Pico if space or area is tight....



yup that is a pico soldered direct to deans, anybody who says they have not room for a mosfet is not considering all the options

dunno how robust it is but the smallest one atm seems to be TWG's Perun titchy mofo...



http://www.taiwangun.com/en/wires-lasers/perun-mosfet-perun?from=listing&campaign-id=19

Don't know how awesome these are:

https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/mosfets

TBH - almost any half decent mosfet will suffice, I very much doubt if your Aug HC is pulling much more than 20amps

So is hardly going to fry a decent properly installed bit of soldering on a gun that is shimmed & running correctly etc....

A bit bigger Gate Nano SSR or ASR, can beupgraded easily to the Merf 3.2 or Warfet

I'd go with Nano ASR over SSR as it has an electronic fuse (I think, plus it is latest Nano)

BUT GATE have just launched their micro mosfet baby....

https://gatee.eu/products/aeg-mosfets/x-asr

holy crap - has a fuse too, don't think it is on sale just yet, prewired for noobs too

makes it a bit longer of course and ultra sad people won't want more connections

(yeah raises hand there on that bit - I'd go all one continous wiring (except to mosfet)

but a good innovative product to offer I feel  

TBH if you canbuy a half decent (not $hite chinese 3034 clone crap) basic mosfet for about £10 to £15

then it isn't worth building your own 3034 these days

Doubt if you need an insanely robust mosfet, mosfets have come a long way in the last 5 years or so

Most of these listed will be fine for what you need

Most mosfets blow due to bad install/shorts or a really really badly horrible shimmed gun ramping up the amps/watts

What you need to decide if you need AB

does your gun seriously overspin/cycle atm

If possible try to see if you can get away not using AB is my gut feeling

I know plenty use AB to stop over-spin/cycling but it can increase wear/heat on motor a little from AB

So I say if you can get away without AB then a regular mosfet will suffice

(plus if you take the pi$$ too much, on a long burst it will still PME no matter what)

So AB does NOT save your piston if you REALLY take the pi$$ in the end

GATE is a respected name/brand - the Jefftron ones are not quite so robust I have read

not got a clue about some other makes - I'm not a guru on mosfet brands tbh

I have bought a batch of cheap 3034's so mainly made my own

but mosfets have come a long way in the last few years so I'm not up to speed on reviews etc....

just decide if you need AB or not then almost anything decent will do if it fits

Thanks for the advice, I was personally looking at some Gate mosfets. Also you mentioned about the soldering, the main reason I want one is because I’m running lipos in the TM AUG hc, do I just want to prolong the life of my gun basically.

 

[Sitting Duck]

Thanks for the advice, I was personally looking at some Gate mosfets. Also you mentioned about the soldering, the main reason I want one is because I’m running lipos in the TM AUG hc, do I just want to prolong the life of my gun basically.

Gate's are decent - pick one according to your requirements (AB or no AB), you space available & your ability

Nano ASR is a nice one if you got the room - easy plug/play upgrade/replacement

But other makes/models are smaller & will suffice blah blah blah

AFAIK - the TM High Cycles have a short stroke sector gear using a slightly higher spring

eg: SS 3 teeth, m115 spring so you "should" be OK to hit a 30~35rps though overspin may/will take place

DO NOT QUOTE ON THOSE EXACT RPS FIGURES - normally 25rps is pushing a reg std UK gun

but a SS gun or High Cycle you can push it some more blah blah blah

Final ROF depends on numerous things

speed/power of motor & gear ratio plus the juice (7.4v or 11.1v)

So I can not say or offer a guarantee that a 11.1v will be OK for all guns

in a std spec gun 11.1v will not cause PME if lame motor 18:1 gears etc.... (11.1v producing say 19~20rps)

In a beefed up gun on 12:1 gears, very high speed motor, m100 spring even a 7.4v can wreck havoc at 30+ rps

(extreme example but demonstrates the enormous differences in some builds & why nothing is set in stone)

Hence you test gun establish rof on 7.4v & multiply by about 55% or 1.55 to see the expected rof on 11.1v

(to establish if you risk wrecking stuff before you take the pi$$)

If only I had understood this myself than thinking:

Trust me - I know what I'm doing (SledgeHammer)

I think I got him

 

[Iceni]

It doesn't need to be fancy.

If all you want is a protection fet then just get a basic one. I think I mentioned the AK2m4 one before and the Xcoretech xet304u. Both are as near as damn it identical.

You will have to do some soldering with both of those.

The jefftron you can get away with connectors but then you run the risk of those burning up or disconnecting.

If you are worried about doing it yourself send it out. It's about 30 minutes of work on the AUG. Since the gearbox doesn't need touching. It's more about the cable management and getting the fet to fit in the small space available that causes problems. A gun tech should be able to work it out very quickly even if they have never done an aug before.

If you need a picture of where to put the fet for the cable management I can take a picture of the inside of one of my augs, but they shouldn't need it. Once that gearbox divide plate is off it's pretty obvious where to put it.

 

[Taiga]

It doesn't need to be fancy.

If all you want is a protection fet then just get a basic one. I think I mentioned the AK2m4 one before and the Xcoretech xet304u. Both are as near as damn it identical.

You will have to do some soldering with both of those.

The jefftron you can get away with connectors but then you run the risk of those burning up or disconnecting.

If you are worried about doing it yourself send it out. It's about 30 minutes of work on the AUG. Since the gearbox doesn't need touching. It's more about the cable management and getting the fet to fit in the small space available that causes problems. A gun tech should be able to work it out very quickly even if they have never done an aug before.

If you need a picture of where to put the fet for the cable management I can take a picture of the inside of one of my augs, but they shouldn't need it. Once that gearbox divide plate is off it's pretty obvious where to put it.

The lipos that I use still allow for a fair amount of room in the stock itself, enough that I could probably fit another decent lipo at a squeeze.

Was wondering if it’s unheard of to wire mosfets and them have them sit in a stock? I’ll give an example when I get home.

 

[Sitting Duck]

The lipos that I use still allow for a fair amount of room in the stock itself, enough that I could probably fit another decent lipo at a squeeze.

Was wondering if it’s unheard of to wire mosfets and them have them sit in a stock? I’ll give an example when I get home.

If you have a basic basic mosfet - then it is fine to leave them in a stock

the circuit is open - there is no drain on the battery at all coz nothing/zilch/zip is using any power

However with bells & whistles mosfets eg programmable stuff like Titan's and others

then yesthere is small drain on the battery/LiPo

So if you have one of them flash bastid Titan's then you SHOULD remove the battery

or it will slowly drain the battery in storage and if drops below 3v the Lipo's cell can take damage

(or refuse/difficulty to charge/revive)

Soooooooooo

The general advise is to remove batteries from guns in storage

but as I don't have a mosfet in every gun, and most just have a basic basic mosfet in there

I like to live dangerously - even sometimes stepping on cracks in the pavement if I'm feeling bold....

 

[Taiga]

If I could fit a mosfet into my stock and it was able able to connect and function correctly then I would mind that, since it would make it easier to replace or remove given that I put connects on all wires.

Also wondering what mosfet Iceni would recommend from AK2m4 since they have a couple, and if the Xcoretech xet304u is better quality than AK2m4 mosfets or is it just a different brand? They both function the same way and contain almost identical components soooooo......

 

[Iceni]

It's a common design. So multiple companies have variants of the same thing.

The AK2M4 one is one factories version, The Xcoretech is another. In function there as close to identical as you will see. Perhaps some variance on components, but otherwise it's designed for the same job.

Once installed you are only going to remove it if the gun breaks, or you need to replace the mosfet. I've never had a basic one fail on me. Expensive ones fail, Cheap ones just keep plodding on. At £7.50 for the AK2M4 one it's not even worth the headache in over-thinking it And if it does break you already have the wires setup to just solder in another. I'm pretty sure @Sitting Duck thinks like this as well.

Learning to solder - even is it's really bad will save you money in airsoft. If you want help learning then we can help. It's cheap to learn as well. A bit of wire, some heatshrink, a soldering iron and solder isn't going to break the bank. If it costs you £30 to setup  and learn,it's a £30 investment to every gun you will own.

https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/mosfets/acemos

https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/xcortech-xet304u-mosfet-switch-safety

 

Both run 1R803GMT chips
(It's the same thing )

Brands in airsoft are a little bit ambiguous. There is an awful lot of re-branding, and because it's china controlled there is an awful lot of the same product been sold under 10 names, 2 as budget parts 6 as oem replacements and 2 as some super unobtanium CNC variant at 20x the price. All the same part, It's why we all love AK2M4, Rocket Airsoft is a non-brand, It's the same factory as SHS a well respected brand, but without the mark up and the hype. ASG for instance don't actually make anything, They have a huge catalogue of airsoft product, and it's all re-brands.

The truth is you look at the product, not the marketing that goes with it.

 

 

[Taiga]

Ok, so generally as long as I've wired connects into the circuit the gun should be future proof anyways. last question, if I where to order from AK2M4 should I order anything else, like any additional parts which may be useful in the future. And should I go with the ACETECH ACEMOS or the ACETECH ACEMOS PLUS. I know they use different chips and was wondering if the ACETECH ACEMOS was the specific chip which I have to use for my intended application.

 

[Iceni]

Just the acetech ascemos, The other one is bigger and you don't need the bulk.

You don't need any wire to the motor or battery from the mosfet. You can cut the tails long enough.

You will need some signal wire for the trigger. It doesn't need to be thick. 22awg silicone wire is more than enough (it's overkill actually). You can grab a few meters for £1-2 on ebay. (1m £1.25)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silicone-Cable-Flexible-Wire-8-10-12-14-16-18-20-22-24-26-30-AWG-Various-Colours/361296232202?hash=item541eeeff0a:m:m1Z8y40Dlq1LkiteckaoHvQ

Get a heatshrink pack. You need to use it wherever you join wires together. You can use a hairdryer/cigarette lighter to shrink it. (£3.69)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heat-Shrink-Tubing-for-Electrical-Sleeving-Cable-Wire-Heatshrink-Tube-Kits-UK/132636052381?_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20151005190705%26meid%3D2eee0467a8e44414803f483429d370c4%26pid%3D100506%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D132636052381&_trksid=p2045573.c100506.m3226


And to make the soldering easier get some eutectic solder. It'll make your soldering 100% easier.
63/37 mix has a very low melt point, and is very easy to work with... Just don't eat it as it's lead based. (£3.30)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/63-37-Tin-2-100g-0-5-2mm-Tin-Lead-Line-Soldering-Rosin-Core-Solder-Welding-Wire/183442408451?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140122125356%26meid%3Df8536fc49ce24bed94ec6ec2f8aed2ab%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D223044903134%26itm%3D183442408451&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851


That should do you. Provided you don't need a soldering iron as well.

If you do need a soldering Iron get a soldering station instead. The price is really low for what you get. For about £25 on ebay you can get them with a digital heat display. Set it to 195c for the 63/37 solder and that's it done.

 

[Sitting Duck]

Incredible advice sir

Should only need about 2 x 0.5m lengths for most guns

unless you are putting a peq box/front wire a SVD or something right to end of the barrel/tripod

but always cheaper to buy more for future use/guns

Shame FireStorm Systems decide to shut up shop

UK company offering mosfets & neodym magnets and carbon cylinders etc.....

£10 titchy mosfet with Alpha wire all inc.. AND prewired

https://www.instagram.com/firestormsystems/

  alas no more

 

[Taiga]

Just the acetech ascemos, The other one is bigger and you don't need the bulk.

You don't need any wire to the motor or battery from the mosfet. You can cut the tails long enough.

You will need some signal wire for the trigger. It doesn't need to be thick. 22awg silicone wire is more than enough (it's overkill actually). You can grab a few meters for £1-2 on ebay. (1m £1.25)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silicone-Cable-Flexible-Wire-8-10-12-14-16-18-20-22-24-26-30-AWG-Various-Colours/361296232202?hash=item541eeeff0a:m:m1Z8y40Dlq1LkiteckaoHvQ

Get a heatshrink pack. You need to use it wherever you join wires together. You can use a hairdryer/cigarette lighter to shrink it. (£3.69)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heat-Shrink-Tubing-for-Electrical-Sleeving-Cable-Wire-Heatshrink-Tube-Kits-UK/132636052381?_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20151005190705%26meid%3D2eee0467a8e44414803f483429d370c4%26pid%3D100506%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D132636052381&_trksid=p2045573.c100506.m3226


And to make the soldering easier get some eutectic solder. It'll make your soldering 100% easier.
63/37 mix has a very low melt point, and is very easy to work with... Just don't eat it as it's lead based. (£3.30)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/63-37-Tin-2-100g-0-5-2mm-Tin-Lead-Line-Soldering-Rosin-Core-Solder-Welding-Wire/183442408451?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140122125356%26meid%3Df8536fc49ce24bed94ec6ec2f8aed2ab%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D223044903134%26itm%3D183442408451&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851


That should do you. Provided you don't need a soldering iron as well.

If you do need a soldering Iron get a soldering station instead. The price is really low for what you get. For about £25 on ebay you can get them with a digital heat display. Set it to 195c for the 63/37 solder and that's it done.

That's great thanks, I know somebody who personally works on RC Heli/car, so I will be sourcing most of it directly from him. But I can definitely use this stuff for future reference so thanks for the information! Now it's just the case of fitting the actual mosfet into my gun.