Magazine Purging and Another Question.

[alxndrhll]

I apologise if it seems I'm being offensive or confrontational. I will say, the complexities between nerf and airsoft are entirely different, the margin for error in nerf seems wider and in a way most upgrades for nerf (generally speaking), wiring and power upgrades aside are pretty straight forward and if you have done it right... it works. Seems with airsoft even if you have the right part and have done it right... doesn't mean it will work without a bit of fine tuning. So upon more consideration, the chap who said Airsoft guns are a bit more complex... yeah they kinda are on the whole and can certainly be more of a pain to make run right with mods in comparison.

I can admit I am a bit of a cock, I tend to dive into these things at stages not really designed for newbies. I lean on the community for advice and pointers. A lot of airsoft stuff, like my current predicament is personal to my gun and choice of parts. Knowledge on this particular route is limited. I have watched many Hi capa builds, where nothing ends up stock at all. There is much info to be gleaned should I have gone that route, I could learn by others on youtube, alas.... for the SE I cannot.

Yeah, I have read the 144a, but so many people even right here say you can use a little stronger as long as you look after the gun properly. 

I wouldn't say that's the case, but hopefully you can understand how bumping the thread less than 24 hours after posting it on a Bank Holiday weekend and then bemoaning the community at large might rub folks the wrong way? Certainly an unusual tactic for trying to get advice/help.

As with many of your other questions it's hard to say for sure because you've swapped things around. There are various parts in a GBB pistol that I'd personally consider consumables (nozzles, springs etc) in that I expect them to need swapping out at some point. Moving up from 144a will likely mean these parts would need swapping out quicker, but that's assuming those parts are currently stock. The one thing I wouldn't consider a consumable, though many (especially Hicapa builders) would, is the slide. As others have stated I've heard anecdotal evidence that green gas can kill Marui slides but I've never had it happen myself. Granted outside of a flamboyant Hicapa build which I've since sold I tend to keep my Marui pistols stock.

 

[ImTriggerHappy]

I apologise if it seems I'm being offensive or confrontational. 

?

Reading through the thread I can't see anywhere you have been like that and I am an expert on being offensive and confrontational.

So if anyone is offended then fuck them and their precious souls.

 

[Ragnaraz]

I wouldn't say that's the case, but hopefully you can understand how bumping the thread less than 24 hoursa after posting it on a Bank Holiday weekend and then bemoaning the community at large might rub folks the wrong way? Certainly an unusual tactic for tryiny to get advice/help.

As with many of your other questions it's hard to say for sure because you've swapped things around. There are various parts in a GBB pistol that I'd personally consider consumables (nozzles, springs etc) in that I expect them to need swapping out at some point. Moving up from 144a will likely mean these parts would need swapping out quicker, but that's assuming those parts are currently stock. The one thing I wouldn't consider a consumable, though many (especially Hicapa builders) would, is the slide. As others have stated I've heard anecdotal evidence that green gas can kill Marui slides but I've never had it happen myself. Granted outside of a flamboyant Hicapa build which I've since sold I tend to keep my Marui pistols stock.

I get a little tunnel vision when I'm obsessing with things, the comment doesn't just come from encounters here, I've looked about and asked else where too. hence my remarks. Agreed, upsetting people doesn't always get answers though... the thread took off after that.

Have you used green gas on stock marui's? I want the Guarder aluminium kit, but I lose the SE aspect on the slide

Reading through the thread I can't see anywhere you have been like that and I am an expert on being offensive and confrontational.

So if anyone is offended then fuck them and their precious souls.

 I laughed harder than I should have at that, I am grateful you didn't think I was being that way as I wasn't trying to be.

 

[Alimcd]

I wouldn't say that's the case, but hopefully you can understand how bumping the thread less than 24 hoursa after posting it on a Bank Holiday weekend and then bemoaning the community at large might rub folks the wrong way? Certainly an unusual tactic for tryiny to get advice/help.

As with many of your other questions it's hard to say for sure because you've swapped things around. There are various parts in a GBB pistol that I'd personally consider consumables (nozzles, springs etc) in that I expect them to need swapping out at some point. Moving up from 144a will likely mean these parts would need swapping out quicker, but that's assuming those parts are currently stock. The one thing I wouldn't consider a consumable, though many (especially Hicapa builders) would, is the slide. As others have stated I've heard anecdotal evidence that green gas can kill Marui slides but I've never had it happen myself. Granted outside of a flamboyant Hicapa build which I've since sold I tend to keep my Marui pistols stock.

Ive actually been trying to destroy the stock plastic slide on my 4.3 whilst I wait on Airsoft Masterpiece to finally deliver the Battlecat 4.3. Given the plastic slide has no real value 2nd hand and I’ve already swapped out the BBU for my go-tos, I figured I’d Mythbust

NP3.0, No failure

NP4.0, No failure 

Guarder performance gas? Well, that set the fire alarm off at work; the slide is fine

Edit - It’s just as well you’re happy to dive in at the deep end if you’re going to stick a Guarder slide on there! Grab the dremel, hand files and a tub of mother’s aluminium polish!

 

[alxndrhll]

Have you used green gas on stock marui's? I want the Guarder aluminium kit, but I lose the SE aspect on the slide

Aye, I use green gas in all of my Marui Glocks and haven't killed the slides on any of them yet. Granted that's not entirely useful information, different shape/sized slides will likely have different breaking points.

I've never fit one myself but from what I understand with the Guarder Glock kits they're a bit of a nightmare to fit, no idea how that translates to the other Guarder kits but food for thought. Granted it seems like them being a prick to fit might be a plus in your case ?. As for losing trades, you'd be able to get those engraved/etched on there somewhere if you particularly wanted to.

Ive actually been trying to destroy the stock plastic slide on my 4.3 whilst I wait on Airsoft Masterpiece to finally deliver the Battlecat 4.3. Given the plastic slide has no real value 2nd hand and I’ve already swapped out the BBU for my go-tos, I figured I’d Mythbust

NP3.0, No failure

NP4.0, No failure 

Guarder performance gas? Well, that set the fire alarm off at work; the slide is fine

Of all the Ali things I've read on this forum, this might be the most Ali thing I've read on this forum.

 

[Ragnaraz]

Ive actually been trying to destroy the stock plastic slide on my 4.3 whilst I wait on Airsoft Masterpiece to finally deliver the Battlecat 4.3. Given the plastic slide has no real value 2nd hand and I’ve already swapped out the BBU for my go-tos, I figured I’d Mythbust

NP3.0, No failure

NP4.0, No failure 

Guarder performance gas? Well, that set the fire alarm off at work; the slide is fine

Holy cow, you have really gone out of your way to try to damage it there. I am guessing the key is in the maintenance and general care when using the pistol?

I was tempted by the chap who said NP 2.0 should be ok. I want to make sure it's the pressure failing not the gun. With so many variables I want to test the pressure theory I thought it could be. If it still screws up, then I have other issues and likely need to change everything back and find the bit that is screwing me over.

Aye, I use green gas in all of my Marui Glocks and haven't killed the slides on any of them yet. Granted that's not entirely useful information, different shape/sized slides will likely have different breaking points.

I've never fit one myself but from what I understand with the Guarder Glock kits they're a bit of a nightmare to fit, no idea how that translates to the other Guarder kits but food for thought. Granted it seems like them being a prick to fit might be a plus in your case ?. As for losing trades, you'd be able to get those engraved/etched on there somewhere if you particularly wanted to.

Of all the Ali things I've read on this forum, this might be the most Ali thing I've read on this forum.

 So within reason 2.0 shouldn't really be a problem for the kind of use it would be getting. I don't mind the maintenance side of things either, any excuse to get my hands greasy lol

 

[Alimcd]

Holy cow, you have really gone out of your way to try to damage it there. I am guessing the key is in the maintenance and general care when using the pistol?

I was tempted by the chap who said NP 2.0 should be ok. I want to make sure it's the pressure failing not the gun. With so many variables I want to test the pressure theory I thought it could be. If it still screws up, then I have other issues and likely need to change everything back and find the bit that is screwing me over.

 So within reason 2.0 shouldn't really be a problem for the kind of use it would be getting. I don't mind the maintenance side of things either, any excuse to get my hands greasy lol

There used to be a term thrown around here some time ago - chairsofter. 
 

Chairsofters utilise all manner of anecdotal evidence with serious conviction. This place is great for having a few (admittedly pretty battle-weary) gods that dish out hard learned advice from having fucked up the old fashioned way.

I’d be very surprised if using Np2.0 would prove to be problematic

 

[alxndrhll]

So within reason 2.0 shouldn't really be a problem for the kind of use it would be getting. I don't mind the maintenance side of things either, any excuse to get my hands greasy lol

This feels almost like a legal line/disclaimer, but I can't guarantee bumping the power of the gas past 144a will mean the slide will survive as long as it would on 144a. I've never first hand heard or seen Nuprol 2.0 kill a Marui slide of any description, but whichever way you look at it the risk of that happening is increased, so I guess you need to figure out what your list of priorities is in terms of using flashy parts, it working reliably, it being more powerful, stock parts not breaking etc.

If it were me putting myself in your shoes, I'd be returning everything to stock and get it working on 144a, because I don't see why you need the extra power given the reason you own the RIF and that'll give you the best lifetime on the stock parts.

If it were me as someone that skirmishes, I'd run it stock on Nuprol 2.0 (or similar) till it breaks and then just replace the things that broke... because I feel like the risk of the high powered gas is worth the reward of the additional performance. I don't personally think that risk/reward works out in your favour given what you have the RIF for, but that's up to you to decide ultimately.

 

[Ragnaraz]

Update if any of you guys were curious.

Probably did way more than was needed but hey ho, that's just what I do. Starting with ordering some Nuprol 2.0. Followed by 1000 grit paper, jewellers polishing compound and some felt buffers for the Dremel. The piston rails got disassembled, 400 to de burr the edges, 1000 to really smooth the surfaces and then the compound Dremel polish afterwards. I did the same to the seats on the lower frame too and gave the hammer reset pin a quick polish too. The arms on the DP nozzle copped for the same treatment as well, everything was cleaned lubricated and rebuilt.

The result? The slide action is silky smooth, you can only feel the resistance of the spring, not the rough surfaces "grinding". Even with improved seal on the DYNA piston head the nozzle springs back easier because of all the shiny, lubed surfaces. The lack of resistance and the improved gas power gives it a lovely feel when firing, a bit more kick as expected of the gas and the smoother action. No locking the hammer and purging the mag anymore. It was a bit of a faff, oil and oxide paper everywhere, then flying felt and compound. Honestly, I loved it. Even more so because now it works as it should even with the upgrades. Noob 1, Gun 0

 

[MadMole]

Been running a TM 5.1 on black Nuprol 4 for 5 years now, all on dry fire with a Mantis X trainer. Its still going strong despite thousands of dry fire cycles. Slide is standard TM plastic but it does have a silicon buffer on the main spring