'Lipo Ready'????

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steve101

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Hi,

As you can probably tell I am a bit of a newb to airsoft and have only been playing for about a year. I have a king arms m4a1 but want to upgrade ROF - after seeing players with guns that sound like small lawnmowers! Anyway, ive heard the term 'lipo ready' used quite a bit and was wondering about wether i could upgrade to lipo? Also: what type, voltage, Mah etc. if possible what does C refer to?

Thanks,

Ed

 
whack in a 7.4v LiPo, if it'll fit a 2800mah will last you way longer than a days skirmish, they don't need discharging but do need to be removed from the gun after the skirmish. Can get a balance charger pretty cheap, sorted! :-) go with as high a C as poss 20 or 25+

 
C is the discharge rate, multiply the Ah rating of the battery by the C rating and you'll get the discharge rate. For example a 1300mAh battery is really 1.3Ah, if it were 30C then you'd get a 39A continuous discharge rate from the battery.

'LiPo ready' is a marketing scam from retailers, all AEGs are LiPo ready in that you can put a LiPo battery in any AEG and it'll work, with an 11.1v LiPo though you'll accelerate the wear on gearbox components (regardless of manufacturer, gears spinning faster and pistons pulling harder will wear faster!).

I'd go with PT247's advice though and try out a 7.4v battery, it'll improve your trigger response and rate of fire without being ridiculous like an 11.1v.

 
The King Arms m4a1 as i understand isn't lipo ready, you should be able to run a 7.4 lipo in there but a normal 9.6v wont really be a big difference.

Lipo battery's tend to speed everything up in the gear box, it makes the motor spin faster and the gears turn faster and therefore make your gun shoot quicker providing a higher RoF (trying to be as newb friendly as possible)

Lipo ready means that the internals in your gun are able to wit stand the punch a lipo delivers. Non lipo ready guns will usually break because all the components wear down faster because they are not good enough quality.

Upgrading to lipo can cost a fair bit and depending on your internals may require a fair bit of skill to do so. It is entirely possible, you just have to no what to do. Google around if you want or feel free to message me if you need help.

I would recommend looking into ELITE cell 9,6v NiMH batteries as an alternative.

 
The KA stuff is pretty solid, certainly OOTB will take a 7.4V, but you'll likely notice no increase in ROF.

If it's shimmed even vaguely right and has had the AOE corrected they handle an 11.1 quite happily, but try to keep off auto, just use semi. Mine lasted about a year before I switched over to the Polarstar engine in the rifle and the 'box was running fine until I removed it.

 
thanks for all the replies,

will a 7.4v increase my ROF or would a 9.6v be better?

 
dex said:
Lipo's come in increments of 3.7v per cell - so a 2 cell lipo will be 7.4v and a 3 cell will be 11.1v You cant get lipos in 9.6v.
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Cheers for that one genius, NiMh batteries come in increments of 1.2v so when he said 9.6v the rest of us assumed he was talking about a NiMh battery.

Steve, 30C is fine.

 
Usually 7.4V lipo gives you the same rof as a 9.6V nimh. That's because the nimh has much lower "C" value. So the motor can't work on it's full potential even so it gets 9.6V it doesn't get the amps it needs. (It's a bit more complicated than that, it actually results a voltage drop that's why it's not that fast but it's a simple explanation. :) )

 
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jcheeseright said:
Cheers for that one genius, NiMh batteries come in increments of 1.2v so when he said 9.6v the rest of us assumed he was talking about a NiMh battery.

Steve, 30C is fine.
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I wasn't trying to teach anyone to suck eggs mate. I would assume that most here would know that, but that the original poster may not.

 
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