Ics gearbox how well is it built

[Oneshotonekill]

Hi guys 

just looking on upgrading my l85 into a dmr. I’ve already programmed it to semi but haven’t done the parts for it to be a dmr if you get what I mean. Now my site limits for dmrs and probably throughout the uk site limits are 500fps for dmr/sniper! 

Now what gears,nozzles,pistons,piston heads, anti reversal latch, motor etc to make it a dmr at 500 FPS

I’ve just got my self a classic army m249 motor that I found.High torque and got some 16.1 shs gears ? is that any good also how strong is the gearbox case it self  Hope you guys can help 

cheers George 

 

[Wo1f]

500 is high for a DMR. I wish mine were like that. I don’t know about the l85 box specifically, but ICS’ split v2 has been solid for me for a good few years. It’s had everything from a 300 to a 445 FPS spring in it. Will it take prolonged 500 FPS use? I’m not sure, but i do rate their gearbox castings higher than most. 

 

[Jedi_Master]

Moved to Technical section

 

[Oneshotonekill]

Hi there 

my fault the limit is 450fps. 

 

[Esoterick]

Now my site limits for dmrs and probably throughout the uk site limits are 500fps for dmr/sniper! 

This is a massive assumption, some sites have no DMR rules at all, i.e. you can't use them at all whilst others range from 370 FPS to 450, I've personally not seen any sites that allow above 450 so that is certainly not common. I'd suggest you check this more thoroughly or you will struggle to find sites you can use your gun at.

 

[Oneshotonekill]

Yeah sorry my fault I thought it was 500 but it’s actually 450 FPS for dmrs and snipers 500fps 

 

[Prisce]

RIFT allow 500fps DMRs.

 

[Hangtight]

There's a lot more to building a DMR than just getting it to shoot 450fps. That's the easy bit. But as a start, 22TPA motor, stock ratio gears but with a nine tooth bevel and 11.1v. Total piston weight of around 32-33g and a SP130 spring.

 

[Oneshotonekill]

Hi guys 

The gun ain’t working! 

The gearbox is fine,lots of air , good air seal  but when it comes to firing it just sounds like it’s a farting type noise so the bbs will then role out of the barrel ! And then I get double feeds etc the hop rubber is fine but when you look down the hop you can see the tip of it so I don’t know if it’s jamming it up! Had to do it with my raider that was fully upgraded! Anyway is there any specific parts you must have for that specific gun! Ie. Piston,barrel etc. Going into combat action games shop tomorrow for someone to have a look,Shaun, but if you guys can help that would be great 

 cheers George 

 

[TARGETSZONE.CO.UK]

Don't know if you got this sorted, but maybe your hop up rubber is not seated correctly, so check that on the inner barrel that everything is lined up correctly on the hop up and nib. You should have a perfect circle if it's a standard rubber with maybe a slight indentation at the top on the rubber if it is slightly worn with hop up off. Push a BB through the hop up rubber into the barrel. There should be slight resistance when fully engaged, but not too much and should fall out easily once past rubber.If it doesn't there's your problem. You should also have a spring fitted to the hop up which is important, as this pushes the barrel backwards to engage the nozzle tightly. You should be able to push the inner barrel forward and it should spring back freely. people put PTFE tape on the front of there hop unit and allsorts thinking they get a better seal, but quite often it has the reverse effect. If this is ok then power it up and fire it until you get the nozzle in its most forward position, place the inner barrel over the nozzle and gently seat it back to see if there is any resistance between the nozzle and the rubber. If there isn't then you possibly have a worn nozzle or the tappet plate is no longer at a 90 degree angle and will need replacing. If all is ok then reassemble and check through mag well whilst firing that nozzle is moving backward and all the way forward without sticking and also make sure that hop unit has seated correctly into the front of gearbox. If it sticks then something is out of line you may have twisted one of the receivers slightly.If you are converting to DMR it doesn't matter what ratio gears as you are only on single shot. You will need a piston with metal teeth and a high torque motor. would also recommend a mosfet with active braking, this ensures a full cycle every time you pull the trigger, however unlike a standard mosfet it will not be as good at controlling trigger contact burn. Put a screw in the receiver to disable full auto. Don't cut the selector plate as DMR's are renowned for jamming as they were never designed for single shot, so at least you have the option to remove the screw and flip it to Auto to clear if it does jam. I could go on more but this has covered most of it. Hope It helps

Kind regards

Rob

 

[Oneshotonekill]

Hi rob 

couldnt get a better answer! Yep that was the issue with the hop rubber and my friend from combat action games done it for me. I couldn’t find a solution for the selector switch on the internet but you’ve said it for me! Top man  

cheers George 

 

[TARGETSZONE.CO.UK]

Glad to be of help