Help me diagnose the problem please...

[Jamin_p]

Hi.

So I have a stock E&L AIMS that i've been running on 11.1 lipo until about a month or so ago when it showed what i assumed to be a loose motor screw that just needed tightening i.e. high pitched whine, not firing. As i was not playing again for a while and due to a lack of time to properly investigate if this wasn't the case, I have left it alone. Today i've come around to fixing this due to an upcoming skirmish and after 2 presses of the trigger, once as is and once after tightening slightly, the third squeeze yielded nothing. no noise or movement or sign of life.

So i can eliminate that it is not the battery as i have tried 3 of them which have all worked in my backup gun right after.

So in my mind this could be....

1) Blown fuse? I think unlikely as its a 30c fuse on a 25c battery.

2) Burnt out motor?

3) Burnt out trigger contacts?

4) Other?

Any input and suggestions to diagnose would be appreciated.

Thanks.

 

[Rich83]

Try putting power direct to the battery to eliminate any problems in wiring between the battery and the motor. Only give it a quick blast tho, and use the lowest cap battery you have (7.2) to avoid over revving the motor as there will be no resistance with it not pulling the spring back etc.

Try that!

 

[RR01]

It may well be a blown fuse, even allowing for the fact that you have a 30Amp one in there. It may be that tightening the adjustment screw caused it all to jamb up and that could easily overload the fuse. If you have access to a multimeter then test for continuity (if it's not obviously showing a break). Alternatively if the gearbox has seized then that could also produce the symptoms you describe, especially as you are running on an 11.1V Lipo. Are the gearbox and motor fully upgraded to be able to handle that increased load? Stock gearboxes that are not produced with upgraded gears, piston, etc. don't last long on 11.1V Lipos, so you could be looking at an expensive repair job.

To correctly set the motor height you need to run the gun on auto and increase / decrease the screw pressure until you get the smoothest, least screechy noise from the motor / gearbox.

 

[Sitting Duck]

Exactly all the above

In fact try to set motor height on lower 7.4v if possible and then retest on 11.1v

Why - because screeching is much more noticeable on lower speeds than on very high speeds

sounds bollox - but it is true the pitch/tone is deffo easier to hear on say 20rps than 30rps

and a gun might not sound that bad on 11.1v but sounds worse on 7.4v

There's a couple of vids on youtube about this and it is true - the screech is more noticeable on lower rps

This might be due to lower tone/pitch of screech over the motor whine

instead of higher pitch screech and whine of motor sounding similar

dunno exact reason but deffo more noticeable I have found on lower rps

also v3's you have the option to check motor frame/angle

get motor running quietish then if still not happy

loosen motor frame and see if adjusting the frame you may get the motor angled more true in line with bevel

that slight twist or shift may make reduce any screech even further

but this motor adjustment should be done with a bit of care & common sense noting any results good or bad

plus people should not need to keep pi$$balling about with it too much either or keep winding motor inwards

that will just force bevel tight against bushing/bearing generating more heat n wear etc.....

 

[Jamin_p]

Try putting power direct to the battery to eliminate any problems in wiring between the battery and the motor. Only give it a quick blast tho, and use the lowest cap battery you have (7.2) to avoid over revving the motor as there will be no resistance with it not pulling the spring back etc.

Try that!

It may well be a blown fuse, even allowing for the fact that you have a 30Amp one in there. It may be that tightening the adjustment screw caused it all to jamb up and that could easily overload the fuse. If you have access to a multimeter then test for continuity (if it's not obviously showing a break). Alternatively if the gearbox has seized then that could also produce the symptoms you describe, especially as you are running on an 11.1V Lipo. Are the gearbox and motor fully upgraded to be able to handle that increased load? Stock gearboxes that are not produced with upgraded gears, piston, etc. don't last long on 11.1V Lipos, so you could be looking at an expensive repair job.

To correctly set the motor height you need to run the gun on auto and increase / decrease the screw pressure until you get the smoothest, least screechy noise from the motor / gearbox.

I will start with a new fuse as that is accessible easiest, should be able to do that be end of weekend hopefully but sadly dont have access to a multimeter so i'm going to have to assume the wiring is good. RE gearbox and internals, they are steel rather than pot metal etc as standard with a poly silenced piston so only upgrades that should be required are a fet for the contacts and any performance upgrades i might like such as tbb, hop rubber etc. Would the gearbox have produced the screechy noise before it died? I did listen to it closely and it definitely came from the motor so i'm reluctant to go fiddling in there unless i can rule everything else out. Also, if the issue was the gearbox, wouldn't loosening the screw again resume the motor activity, which it isn't.

 

[Sitting Duck]

sounds like fuse is current issue so do a quick process of elimination test.....

check fuse with a torch/bulb circuit or a test screw driver multi meter continuaty thingy majig

is gearbox locked - remove motor frame a smidge so motor isn't engaging box/gears

pull trigger motor spins or not

no spin fuse ok then trigger contacts could be burnt out so connect battery or some psu to motor

etc..... etc..... etc....... - basic trial error stuff to narrow down present issue

It may be a blown fuse due to increased strain on motor if wound in too far

but might be a locked box - hard for anybody to say 101% exactly as we don't have gun in front of us

but a few basic checks will narrow it down a bit and once that is done it will be easier to at least suggest

possible solutions to original issue or cause of dead gun

if you still can't determine if fuse is blown or not.....

You could but I am not recommending anybody does this or at least not without removing motor from gun....

you could wrap some silver foil around the glass fuse or jam in a bit of foil to short a blade fuse

BUT FFS DO NOT DO THIS WITH MOTOR IN BOX - ONLY DO THIS WITH MOTOR REMOVED

SERIOUSLY DON'T F*CK ABOUT WITH 11.1v LIPO's & BITS OF SILVER FOIL SHORTING OUT ETC......

I am only suggesting this to somebody who has an A level in common sense as an absolute last resort fall back test

and I mean TEST with motor out with a split second to see if motor turns on its own

I'm making this as absolutely clear as possible it is a quick last ditch BODGE TEST that should only ever be used for split second

If anybody blows their gun or battery or themselves up I am not responsible - they do this at THEIR own stupid risk

I have done stuff like this, & I'm sure many have but we kind of know what we are doing in a basic last resort 1 sec test

as well as we know we are being possible dickheads but we use extreme caution & common sense

Honestly a meter or test screwdriver is much quicker, easier and above all much safer

a 7.4v lipo battery if shorts out can really pack a hell of a punch arcing like f*ck

I shorted a lipo once even though I was fitting deans one at a time and I $hit myself with the vivid arcing and zaps that followed

On 11.1v it is very f*cking dangerous so I strongly advise to anybody is don't bodge stuff - full stop

no really don't think it will be ok - it is f*cking dangerous even if you really think you know what you are doing

 

[AK47frizzle]

Yer circuit is fuked, buy a mosfet and a new set of shiny trigger contacts.

Stock + 11.1v = bad things happen

 

[Samurai]

1) Blown fuse? I think unlikely as its a 30c fuse on a 25c battery.

It seems you do not have a deep enough understanding of the internals of the AS guns. The best is to bring it to an AS mechanic to fix it. You can easily make things worse or buy and try a lot of expensive parts before finding the problem.

 

[Jamin_p]

It seems you do not have a deep enough understanding of the internals of the AS guns. The best is to bring it to an AS mechanic to fix it. You can easily make things worse or buy and try a lot of expensive parts before finding the problem.

Yer circuit is fuked, buy a mosfet and a new set of shiny trigger contacts.

Stock + 11.1v = bad things happen

sounds like fuse is current issue so do a quick process of elimination test.....

check fuse with a torch/bulb circuit or a test screw driver multi meter continuaty thingy majig

is gearbox locked - remove motor frame a smidge so motor isn't engaging box/gears

pull trigger motor spins or not

no spin fuse ok then trigger contacts could be burnt out so connect battery or some psu to motor

etc..... etc..... etc....... - basic trial error stuff to narrow down present issue

It may be a blown fuse due to increased strain on motor if wound in too far

but might be a locked box - hard for anybody to say 101% exactly as we don't have gun in front of us

but a few basic checks will narrow it down a bit and once that is done it will be easier to at least suggest

possible solutions to original issue or cause of dead gun

if you still can't determine if fuse is blown or not.....

You could but I am not recommending anybody does this or at least not without removing motor from gun....

you could wrap some silver foil around the glass fuse or jam in a bit of foil to short a blade fuse

BUT FFS DO NOT DO THIS WITH MOTOR IN BOX - ONLY DO THIS WITH MOTOR REMOVED

SERIOUSLY DON'T F*CK ABOUT WITH 11.1v LIPO's & BITS OF SILVER FOIL SHORTING OUT ETC......

I am only suggesting this to somebody who has an A level in common sense as an absolute last resort fall back test

and I mean TEST with motor out with a split second to see if motor turns on its own

I'm making this as absolutely clear as possible it is a quick last ditch BODGE TEST that should only ever be used for split second

If anybody blows their gun or battery or themselves up I am not responsible - they do this at THEIR own stupid risk

I have done stuff like this, & I'm sure many have but we kind of know what we are doing in a basic last resort 1 sec test

as well as we know we are being possible dickheads but we use extreme caution & common sense

Honestly a meter or test screwdriver is much quicker, easier and above all much safer

a 7.4v lipo battery if shorts out can really pack a hell of a punch arcing like f*ck

I shorted a lipo once even though I was fitting deans one at a time and I $hit myself with the vivid arcing and zaps that followed

On 11.1v it is very f*cking dangerous so I strongly advise to anybody is don't bodge stuff - full stop

no really don't think it will be ok - it is f*cking dangerous even if you really think you know what you are doing

Ok, so i've checked and changed the fuse and sure enough, the motor is spinning again. I'm going to go with the idea that something has lost some teeth or the like as having tried super-slowly tightening the screw whilst on full auto it gets to the point of almost being unable to manually tigheten and getting no different outcome other than a whine and no firing.

Next question then, as i'm reluctant to open the 'box due to my unfamiliarity inside it, anyone able to recommend any techs in the swindon/wiltshire area?

 

[Sitting Duck]

https://www.swindonairsoft.co.uk/ might be able to help but I have no experience with them

could be motor angle rather than shimming that caused screeching previously

now motor spins but no gun fires - so could be gear knackered or something....

but all of us guessing and saying this n that is little real use as we haven't got it in front of us

won't hurt to get a second opnion

 

[n1ckh]

The screeching is down to bad gear mesh where one gear is engaged to much or to little with another gear

Watch YouTube videos about how to disassemble your rifle & once you split the gearbox, take photos of how everything goes in the box

 

[Dannn]

Mate, until last night I'd never taken an aeg to bits.. Yes when I put it back together I had a couple of "spare" bits but a quick post on here and I had it sorted straight away.

I've re built engines etc so I'm pretty handy with spammers etc which helps but aeg's are so simple things inside.

Get it pulled to bits, take pics at every step lay all the pits in white paper in the order they came off, number them, count how many shims went here and how many went there and you shouldn't go to wrong.

Also find a guide on YouTube too, that helps.

It's quite satisfying fixing your gun yourself ?