GFC GF25

Sitting Duck said:


Careful you lose Auto for good until you buy a new selector plate

http://www.airsoftsociety.com/threads/how-to-semi-lock.132570/

Pico mosfet is perhaps easier or Nano than making just one DIY one up

(but then you will need a soldering iron anyway - so what is a bit more soldering to build your own)

http://www.patrolbase.co.uk/airsoft/gate-picossr-3-aeg-micro-mosfet-unit.htm#.Wdu4uVtSzIU

or

http://www.patrolbase.co.uk/airsoft/gate-nanoasr-3rd-gen-advanced-solid-state-relay-mosfet.htm#.Wdu4aVtSzIU

When the old mosfet blew - ^ these ^ are what the owner should have replaced it with

the extra switch - a cheap tiny tactile switch with wires hidden/glued inside a fixed m4 DMR stock



just basically a way of making it cycle on auto if it ever got stuck

return to dead zone/safe zone simply pop mag, click extra trigger inside stock/magwell if feeling clever

gun cycles on auto clearing lockup without needing to strip or try to pick AR latch etc....

TBH - f*ck knows why when companies make a DMR type gun they don't f*cking do this anyway
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Thank you very much I'll put a parts list together for him to buy. 

If I get stuck I'll be back to pick your brains.

I expect they don't do it because of cost. Although it may save them money on warranty returns.

 
Sitting Duck said:


Careful you lose Auto for good until you buy a new selector plate

http://www.airsoftsociety.com/threads/how-to-semi-lock.132570/

Pico mosfet is perhaps easier or Nano than making just one DIY one up

(but then you will need a soldering iron anyway - so what is a bit more soldering to build your own)

http://www.patrolbase.co.uk/airsoft/gate-picossr-3-aeg-micro-mosfet-unit.htm#.Wdu4uVtSzIU

or

http://www.patrolbase.co.uk/airsoft/gate-nanoasr-3rd-gen-advanced-solid-state-relay-mosfet.htm#.Wdu4aVtSzIU

When the old mosfet blew - ^ these ^ are what the owner should have replaced it with

the extra switch - a cheap tiny tactile switch with wires hidden/glued inside a fixed m4 DMR stock



just basically a way of making it cycle on auto if it ever got stuck

return to dead zone/safe zone simply pop mag, click extra trigger inside stock/magwell if feeling clever

gun cycles on auto clearing lockup without needing to strip or try to pick AR latch etc....

TBH - f*ck knows why when companies make a DMR type gun they don't f*cking do this anyway
Click to expand...
Click to shrink...


Thank you very much I'll put a parts list together for him to buy. 

If I get stuck I'll be back to pick your brains.

I expect they don't do it because of cost. Although it may save them money on warranty returns.

 
I'm going to smash this gun soon. Had it all back together cycled and the piston got stuck and didn't return. Why? Anyone? 

 
uniweekendwarrior said:
I'm going to smash this gun soon. Had it all back together cycled and the piston got stuck and didn't return. Why? Anyone? 
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Great these toy guns eh ???

The back of piston could have caught on rear window of box

The piston caught on spring guide

Bit of crap caught in gears - yup even a bit of plastic or crap can lock gears

With your neodym motor it will likely try its best to munch through but don't

You will only know by yet another strip down....

BUT one thing if spring is half cocked.....

Before you try to pop the AR latch inside the gearbox by bevel to release the spring tension....

WAIT a sec....

You have a trimmed tappet plate fin, if nozzle is fully retracted then fine

But on trimmed tappet fins it is a good idea to push nozzle back just before you release ARL

if the sector cam has passed the fin - on a trimmed fin then the when the gearbox unwinds...

The cam can smash into the underside of the trimmed fin, unable to draw back the tappet and mash stuff up more

Being that you have a bespoke tappet plate with that jumbo cylinder head...

You don't really want to risk busting the longer tappet plate up on releasing the ARL

So it would be wise perhaps if in any doubt to push nozzle/tappet plate back

So that when the compressed spring unwinds like hell it hopefully won't smack into the base of the trimmed fin

Then inspect EVERYTHING for marks/wear pointing to what/where the lockup took place

 
Still messed up.

Stripped of reassembled.

Put it on semi and pull the trigger. The motor just spins and spins even when you release the trigger. 

Then the piston came back and just stopped. 




View attachment 27547

 
When I took the case off the piston jumped back into place. I took a photo so you can see where everything was when it stopped. 

View attachment 27548

As you can see the gear that engaged with the piston only went half way around resulting inthe piston not releasing I'm guessing. 

 
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1 hour ago, uniweekendwarrior said:

Still messed up.

Stripped of reassembled.

Put it on semi and pull the trigger. The motor just spins and spins even when you release the trigger. 

Then the piston came back and just stopped. 

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OMFG - that is deffo not right - kill the battery asap

You still have the switch problem I see....

But now the motor height is out and hope that is shredding teeth on pinion/bevel

The video shows grip and motor & plate assembled so it is all in there inside the grip

but it isn't turning jack so motor is low or there are no teeth on the bevel gear

examine the motor's pinion gear for any damage

then examine the bevel gear - both sets of teeth

the bevel gear to pinion get chipped but unless there is bad wear they hold up ok

the 10 bevel teeth to spur gear - these go to bits when you have a jam or lockup, so examine those

The shimming/motor height needs serious checking coz something major isn't right

pull the piston/cylinder out, check the gears spin freely without lockups or chunks of teeth missing etc....

next check the piston moves back freely without snagging or binding

examine piston for damage to teeth

The Angle of Engagement hasn't been done either I see

Not being funny, but the box is now worse than when you started

I think you might be wise to consider sending it all of to a Tech and getting the thing fixed up properly

Ask at your local site who services their rental guns or something

Think it would be a wise move to just get the whole thing re-done, shimmed up, rewired with mosfet etc...

All at the same time in one sitting coz so far you are going nowhere fast if not only getting worse

 
Sitting Duck said:
OMFG - that is deffo not right - kill the battery asap

You still have the switch problem I see....

But now the motor height is out and hope that is shredding teeth on pinion/bevel

The video shows grip and motor & plate assembled so it is all in there inside the grip

but it isn't turning jack so motor is low or there are no teeth on the bevel gear

examine the motor's pinion gear for any damage

then examine the bevel gear - both sets of teeth

the bevel gear to pinion get chipped but unless there is bad wear they hold up ok

the 10 bevel teeth to spur gear - these go to bits when you have a jam or lockup, so examine those

The shimming/motor height needs serious checking coz something major isn't right

pull the piston/cylinder out, check the gears spin freely without lockups or chunks of teeth missing etc....

next check the piston moves back freely without snagging or binding

examine piston for damage to teeth

The Angle of Engagement hasn't been done either I see

Not being funny, but the box is now worse than when you started

I think you might be wise to consider sending it all of to a Tech and getting the thing fixed up properly

Ask at your local site who services their rental guns or something

Think it would be a wise move to just get the whole thing re-done, shimmed up, rewired with mosfet etc...

All at the same time in one sitting coz so far you are going nowhere fast if not only getting worse
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I take no offence at all. As the gun didn't work to begin with my mate gave me it to learn on as when if comes to gearbox I am a total noob. 

It's funny you mention a tech as talking to my two main site techs at the moment getting quotes haha.

Also tempted to just buy a new complete gearbox and drop it in

 
Just checked all the gear teeth and the motor and they all look fine no chips or missing teeth.

 
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TBH I'd avoid splashing too much money on a new gearbox

a proper v2.5 isn't cheap or easy to source straight away

(stuff like v2.5 tappet plates are like hens teeth but other bits are similar to v2 or longer stroke cylinders can be found etc...)

Somebody on Airsoft Mechanics was say even G&P has stopped doing the full stroke v2.5 gearbox now

So the only real v2.5 options might be A&K or an expensive CNC one on order

Unless somebody has got one spare or going cheap - then you may have a few mild fitment issues perhaps

G&G just use a normal v2 with a jumbo mofo nozzle so tbh the only thing I'd do is get that JG/GFC box fixed up properly

(and tbh pass it back or sell it on unless you have fallen in love with it)

Don't think it is anything major - just needs the switch trouble-shooting & then rebuilt properly shimming/AoE/spring change maybe

(as said I'd sort out the short, rewire with a 3034 mosfet or cheap Gate mosfet whilst the box is in bits)

Nothing steep - just a bit of time & attention to rebuild it

 
I found a new a&k 2.5 for 55 delivered.

And the site tech I've talked to seems to just increasing the price wanting to put a ascu mosfet in that's 70 pounds just there. With repairs as well that's easy going to be over 100 pounds 

 
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uniweekendwarrior said:
I found a new a&k 2.5 for 55 delivered.

And the site tech I've talked to seems to just increasing the price wanting to put a ascu mosfet in that's 70 pounds just there. With repairs as well that's easy going to be over 100 pounds 
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Why an ASCU ???

I mean yeah you could just program it for one shot burst to achieve the semi only DMR

But it is likely to remain just a DMR single shot mofo so why the bells & whistles

Get the gun working as it should be, simple mosfet, selector mod costs nothing etc.....

M130 spring - max 509mm barrel - likely a 455mm barrel & good hop - THIS is where the money should go

If you have a full size fixed stock like often on SR-25's then plop the mosfet in there with extra switch to fire on auto

nice decent 11.1v battery block which will likely overspin a little but not too much on a m130 std gears etc....

fire it on a 7.4v lipo to park the piston without overspin/pre-cocking you get on 11.1v at end of day

Up to you but it is a sr25 mofo so you won't be needing to go back to full auto or use it for room clearing cqb

So it will look like a dmr single shot bastid so why anything fancy when it isn't needed for the task in hand

This is the trap we all fall into into, sinking money into stuff that isn't always needed or warranted in the end

If you want you could get the A&K box maybe but there might be a little fitment issue

(might not be but best prepare just in case)

At least then you will have a fuller volume v2.5 in the end for 510-550mm barrels lifting 0.40's etc....

Maybe that might be an option....

But you could/should still get the old qwirky v2.2 JG/GFC weirdo box fixed up anyway

(can't use it in anything else)

maybe send the box to fixed and weigh up a possible A&K v2.5 perhaps

But I personally would not bothering with anything fancy on a single shot DMR tbh as I said

Up to you, can mess about with burst & precocking etc.... but think it isn't really paramount on the gun in question

 
Sitting Duck said:
Why an ASCU ???

I mean yeah you could just program it for one shot burst to achieve the semi only DMR

But it is likely to remain just a DMR single shot mofo so why the bells & whistles

Get the gun working as it should be, simple mosfet, selector mod costs nothing etc.....
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Upselling isn't he really. 

I'm looking for a tech to do it who's not going to take the Mick. 

 
Yeah - fancy costly bits n bobs don't matter if they aren't picking up the tab

I mean yes it would be fancy with bells & whistles, precocking hairline trigger

But it ain't even a proper v2.5 box anyway

I'd be tempted to consider an A&K perhaps then get the GFC v2.2 redone as a spare

if/when the A&K needs a service tweak or busts you got the old box as a spare

Both boxes could be wired up to same basic Gate Nano ASR or wtf their own cheapo 3034 in the end

If it has the full size fixed stock then you got loads of room to just chuck all the wiring/mosfet/chunky battery etc....

Really don't need anything fancy imho, just the box running correctly & efficiently smooth with good seals - that's all imho

 
If you are really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really....

Up $hit creek without a paddle or life jacket, boat leaking water and you just drilled another hole to let the water out

Maybe if you are really stuck, but get it done locally will save postage, put you in more control

Just tell the guys to keep it simple but nothing fancy - just get it running like it should

 
Haha, It's ok I've sent it to a tech now. Believe it or not there is no local airsoft retailers near me. Closest one is over an hours drive and actually works out more expensive in petrol then just to post it. 

I do really appreciate your help though and I'm sure I'll be back at some point after totally f*cking something else up :)

 
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