G&G AEG CM18 MOD1 for first AEG.

UK stores recommend the 7.4 or 8.4v, US stores recommend 8.4v or 9.6v - and a few sites claim 11.1v compatibility.

Going with:

http://www.landwarriorairsoft.com/batteries-bbs-gas-chronographs-c5/batteries-c62/we-airsoft-europe-7-4v-2600mah-20c-crane-stock-lipo-p3197

http://www.landwarriorairsoft.com/batteries-bbs-gas-chronographs-c5/batteries-c62/we-airsoft-europe-7-4v-1450mah-25c-crane-stock-lipo-p3193

Having just noticed cells are different in LiPOs.

17/07/2015:

Well, I bought it from Land Warrior Airsoft yesterday and received it today. Price matched a £1 off too.

While I have had no surprises, it is still managing to be lower quality than I expected (for £154 item manufactured outside the UK). I would not call anything I dislike about it 'unexpected' and I am quite happy with it - not fired yet. G&Gs manufacturing tolerances between the parts seems to be lax, but the parts themselves seem individually fine, small amount of rattle, but it is quite lightweight, and overall I don't have any regrets at this point.

Well, except that I have foolishly not ordered a sling.

Shame it does not have ambi mag release.

 
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No need for a new topic.

I found out today that my gun is 351 fps most of the time. And that when I previously chrono'd I was more than likely using .25g BBs from a borrowed mag - which would account for the 310 FPS noted.

I want to play at the mall, which is strict 328 with variance allowed up to absolute 340.

What can I do? Besides firing (not a realistic option). I have learned a lot and I know theoretical solutions, such as shortening the spring or drilling holes in the cylinder, but really I don't want to do any of that, someone reassure me the FPS will drop to 335 ish!

I should have chrono'd at the end of the day, after it had had 400 BBs through it.

 
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you can leave the gun cocked over night.....

or some other temp fix.....

you can slide off top receiver.......

now if you place a few layers of tape - gaffa or electrician's tape at front of gearbox

just above & below where the hop goes in - tape on metal gearbox shell.....

What you are trying to do is just part the hop a smidge away from its usual place that seals well

pushing the hop a little forward should hopefully ensure the nozzle may not seal 101% perfectly against bucking

in effect creating a slight leak or not such great seal in the hop or fps drop at chrono

around 0.5mm - heck even 0.25mm can make the difference between a good seal and a GREAT seal

you are just trying to ineffect drop fps from 350 to say 333 - aprox 5%

but unfortunately you can't test the results without a chrono really

but at least this is a temp drop and tape can always be removed

(though you don't wanna keep messing about too much with tape on/off over time)

but worth trying to drop fps slightly than leave spring cocked overnight

besides after 3 to 6 months I'm sure the gun will easily be within Mall's limits anyway

 
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I don't know how to leave it cocked, I just take the batteries out. /newb

 
you pull trigger and release it early before piston fires

thus leaving spring compressed nearly ready to release/fire

not easy to gauge or see even with G&G box showing with top receiver removed

as they don't have a rear window to see piston/spring position on gearbox shell

battery in, leave it on full auto - reason if you don't get it right first attempt you may end up with

the trigger in the "dead zone" by releasing trigger a smidge earlier and have to flick to full auto anyway

look down magwell after she has fired..... (dry fired btw as all guns should be mag free & cleared of course)

(note MAGWELL not barrel - anybody that don't understand this important bit should not proceed ffs)

the nozzle - black stock nozzle should be starting to go backwards allowing a bb to enter

as you inch over the gun - that nozzle should shoot forward as tappet/nozzle is released

at this point the spring is roughly 66% to 75% cocked/compressed.....

you could leave it in this state over night to help lose a little tension from spring

no longer than over night I'd say as you only want it to drop a little

that is one of a few ways to bring fps down

care needs to be taken as most teeth are plastic not metal - only 1 last tooth is robust metal

but the Black G&G piston is a good sturdy one so it should be fine for a little precocking overnight

if not sue me next time you see me

oh and ambi mag catch - son's 416 has this on it:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Double-side-left-right-hand-Magazine-Release-Catch-for-M-series-Airsoft-AEG-/111674731179?hash=item1a00552aab

got sent it by error/mixup - better than the Bi-8001 stock mag catch so asked for invoice and kept it on there

temped to maybe getting another one perhaps

 
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Thanks, this is excellent, I'll consider using this. One thing, how do I know I have not done this by accident at the end of a game day?

Also, should I recharged the LiPo to full before storing it or what?

(7.4 20c 2600 mah two cell)

 
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What "can" sometimes happen is that you store the gun with it pre-cocked by accident

over time the spring will lose tension a considerable bit

and can drop to under 300 if left like this for a while

2 things to do on finishing for day when you return home to store gun

(or just leave it in bag - store gun is a term loosely used but mine are always wrapped in silk blankets)

anyway - empty mags as if stored with spring wound hi caps or mid-caps they can lose tension and efficiency

often with hi-caps you gradually find you no longer get 20-30 or so shots on a full winding and this drops the crappy half a dozen

also fire gun on semi twice they say to help ensure gun/spring/gears are parked correctly with min tension

what you are trying to do is leave it pre-cocked/wound for a little while to deliberately lose a smidge of tension

and no you wouldn't lose much if any real tension by a game or two

the cm.515 was still 348/349 and I did just adjust a smidge more hop to get her under

(ain't gonna clean barrel just yet either or I could be back over the limit, and forget a tbb in there for a while)

Lipo battery

I'd leave it partly charged and charge it night before game

but don't listen to me too much about lipo's

EkkxRxn.jpg


note this was dodgy looking lipo - crapped myself as it sparked hissed dropping it in hallway then bursting into flames

kicked it out the front door friday night but scorched the carpet - missus not happy

but on flip side now got the go ahead to buy a ton of new lipo's

but take it from me - if they look a bit dodgy or more just a little puffy replace them

this was a cheapo brand x one and not a proper decent make like Zippy, Turnigy, Vapex, WE etc....

f*ck me all smoke alarms going off and stink - maybe make a claim on insurance or she will get new hall carpet

could of been a LOT LOT worse - so yeah a little care IS needed in handling/storing/charging lipo's

(another lesson learnt - but this was a moody battery btw so don't all rush out and build asbestos charging rooms - just common sense)

 
Ok, managed to get the nozzle in full contact with the barrel (well the green hop bucking anyway).

How long should I leave it like that for, started the clock at 11am? If no one answers I'll fire it in semi tomorrow morning.

Re-reading the above, I may have got this backwards. When I looked in the magwell this morning the black nozzle was entirely withdrawn (since 42 hrs ago) - I could have dropped a bb down the barrel and pushed it out the magwell.

Sorry Duck your instructions confused me a little, I'm unclear whether you mean the spring decompressed or compressed is 'cocked'. I would presume that the spring compressed is cocked. I get that nozzle forward is decompressed.

 
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Sacarathe said:
When I looked in the magwell this morning the black nozzle was entirely withdrawn (since 42 hrs ago) - I could have dropped a bb down the barrel and pushed it out the magwell.
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If you're trying to weaken the spring then that is how you want it. "Cocked" as in "ready to fire" is how you have the gun - the spring is compressed and the gun will fire within a few turns of the motor.

 
Lozart said:
If you're trying to weaken the spring then that is how you want it. "Cocked" as in "ready to fire" is how you have the gun - the spring is compressed and the gun will fire within a few turns of the motor.
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In that case, this is a good job I looked at it today as it would have otherwise been like that for two weeks instead of 42, hours.

Thanks!

I take it that means, that one of the things i've learned, through Q&A, that no one told me about AEGs is to check the nozzle is in contact with the barrel before putting it into storage, when firing semi I had difficulty achieving that state.

 
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Sacarathe said:
In that case, this is a good job I looked at it today as it would have otherwise been like that for two weeks instead of 42, hours.

Thanks!

I take it that means, that one of the things i've learned, through Q&A, that no one told me about AEGs is to check the nozzle is in contact with the barrel before putting it into storage, when firing semi I had difficulty achieving that state.
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If you're firing on semi and it's not returning the nozzle forward reliably then you may have an issue. In auto it's not unusual for a non mosfetted gun to stop mid cycle but on semi it really should complete every time.

 
Lozart said:
If you're firing on semi and it's not returning the nozzle forward reliably then you may have an issue. In auto it's not unusual for a non mosfetted gun to stop mid cycle but on semi it really should complete every time.
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I just retested, the nozzle is not visible at [trigger] rest on semi, on auto I am able to bring the trigger forward before the nozzle is withdrawn.

The issue is over-cycling of the motor? Could this be because of using a low voltage battery?

 
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Sacarathe said:
I just retested, the nozzle is not visible at [trigger] rest on semi, on auto I am able to bring the trigger forward before the nozzle is withdrawn.

The issue is over-cycling of the motor? Could this be because of using a low voltage battery?
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To be fair it may just be the way your gearbox is set up. I'm pretty sure mine work in a "out/in/out" manner as opposed to the "in/out/in" yours is. I may of course be labouring under false understanding...I'll have a look tonight at mine.

 
I was going by the normal way the gearbox cycles

after a shot is fired and the piston releases on semi

the motor runs on a smidge even when cut off engages and usually starts to just pull nozzle back a little

often sector has just started to get near engaging piston and cam starts to retract tappet - so nozzle is starting to part away from hop

I looked at sector's cam for tappet and on a full stock untrimmed tappet plate the nozzle stays fully back as the piston compresses

at about halfway on sector gear the cam starts to release tappet plate so nozzle now starts to shoot forward to load bb & seal against hop

(ready for piston releasing very soon after)

The easiest thing is to remove magazine and pop the front gearbox pin

then you may see the cylinder port window in the gearbox

(if not and stock guns being what they are - not so brilliant seals - rotate cylinder until its port is visable)

Now what you want to do is inch the gun until the the o-ring on piston passes the rear of cylinder window

which should be aprox 66% to say 75% on the cm18's porting for its 275mm barrel

you will then be able to see through the single hole or port in the cylinder where the bastid piston is

rather than try and "guess" its position by nozzle and gauge if spring is being compressed

which is not as easy as it may sound even if you fully understand how the gearbox itself cycles

the front pin on G&G's just pops back but not out - it is just designed to stay in there by a spring retainer on pin

once popped the top receiver will slide fowards from main lower receiver

you may notice it might catch slightly on very top of gearbox case but you can just slightly lift upwards at that point to clear

just do it a little slowly and it just comes away real easy on G&G's

look up on google/youtube - not coz it is that tricky or hard but often like my first description it can be difficult to understand anybody

let alone all the crap I type on a regular day to day basis

as long as you can see the port/window on the blue cylinder in gearbox it will be a LOT easier to understand and precock the spring

or failing that spring compression thingy - you will see where to place a few bits of tape at front of gearbox to reduce the good seal

and in effect lose a tiny bit of seal to bring down fps with a slightly less than perfect seal to bucking/hop

hopefully some of this makes sense but soz in advance if you are not fluent in talking duck - even I don't understand most of my crap

pop the top receiver and you know for sure where piston/spring is at is the best easiest way

 
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Of course...by the time you've done all that you could have just changed the spring....

 
be nice if it was quick change spring but alas not on most G&G's

(think that is another one of their new ideas to implement on newer models coming out soon)

most first time openers spring change/box opening doesn't always go to plan

(mine deffo didn't I will honestly admit - well a few boxes didn't that is for sure)

The spring will be fine soonish - just might need a tiny bit of help

either precock or a few bits of tape to push hop away

weird thing is though you may get 349.999 at chrono in morning

fire a few hundred shots/bursts or dry fire through it and due to dunno a bit of friction/heat maybe

the cylinder may warm a little and expand a smidge of a smidge - I have found just recently

and after a blast on bb hosing - the fps is bit less at chrono after this spraying

I ain't studied this crap very much - believe it or not I ain't that sad

but after a while I guess the cylinder may cool a little and higher fps/seal may return to its higher figure

 
I'm at work atm so I suggest watch if not sure how to separate the two bits of receiver

Doesn't invalidate any warranty coz you ain't opening gearbox or motor, besides if you get a really bad jam or change barrel hop bucking you gotta do this anyway.

Look at a video to double check if not sure

Separate 2 halves and you will see the piston in port window and understand a lot more what I'm trying to say in my duc-ollox language

It is hard to see a black nozzle in a grey hop whilst peering down into magwell even when you understand it a bit. Red SHS nozzle is easier to see at first glance than the stock black nozzle.

So consider separating the receivers

 
Nozzle is easy to see because there is a silver area with a hole (showing the black upper) so you can see the nozzle movement and position easily. I'm going to leave this alone until I get an opportunity to chronograph the gun.

Thanks for all the input, after it's chrono'd I wont need to post anything to check this stuff out.

 
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Sick of this firing 351, bought some springs, going to bring it down to 1Joule.

I realised today that I have never chrono'd this gun with the hop off. Would not be surprised if the actual fps is higher than the usual 351 that I get on chronos.

 
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