Fairy Power Spray

[P_Siddy]

Okay, ive done some reading around on here and found people suggesting 'Fairy Power Spray'.

At first this did not click and it was only when i googled it that i found that this is the same shit i use to wash my dishes, oven and bbq with.... i then checked the dates of the posts... not april 1st, check.... i then read through the entire thread of every mention to find someone saying 'he's (or she, lets not be sexist now) pulling your leg'... no one.

Does this really work at removing Krylon? And i suppose the only question i havent really seen answered is will it take it back to its original state, trades 'n' all, or will it strip it back to a blank metal?

Thanks in advance,

 

[proffrink]

It helps but it's still a long process - toothbrush is good but don't use anything more abrasive than that (such as steel wool) or you'll scratch the finish underneath. Krylon is not a permanent paint by itself and begins to come off/wear severely after a year anyway.

It won't remove an anodised or powder coated finish so in almost all cases the original paint stays put. The Power Spray 'trick' is basically intended only for removing certain spray on paints that haven't been sealed.

If your trades are transfers then you might lose them; if they're laser etched you should be able to keep them if you're careful.

 

[Sacarathe]

Now this is how a thread on Fairy Power Spray should look!

/troll

 

[RR01]

Hi Jay,

It definitely works. Used it on a Tan sprayed M4 hand-guard and brought it back to almost completely black. Just had a few tan patches in the hard to reach corners.

 

[P_Siddy]

Brilliant thanks all. I will give it a try bit by bit and see how it turns out. Just really hoping the trades on the MB DD L85 Rail are etched in.

 

[Sitting Duck]

take time - soak it, scrub toothbrush x repeat

top tip wear gloves - yes them sexy marigolds

yes we are blokes but my hands went really manky removing Z1 thickly painted puke green off Raider

dermatitus or whatever can happen - even hard core mechanics wear barrier creams etc...

So it is wise to put on some gloves - no matter how much you think "it will be alright"

if you do even just a little bit of scrubbing with Fairy - I really think it is wise to pop on a pair of rubber gloves

that simple - when hands go all dry n flakey and your handy pandy's have that lovely leprosy look

you will wish you wore them gloves

took over a week - 10 days for them to bounce back and I'm quite lucky not to suffer with sensitive hands

touchwood - but anybody with the toughest skin can get dermatitus and one it starts you can be prone to it flaring up easily

so please use gloves rather than be the tough guy, it isn't tough it's stupid to risk it with strong chemicals on ya skin

(yeah I know it goes on gun not hands but you get my point)

 

[proffrink]

Brilliant thanks all. I will give it a try bit by bit and see how it turns out. Just really hoping the trades on the MB DD L85 Rail are etched in.

The DD Madbull ones are laser etched, but be careful

 

[P_Siddy]

Well after 20 minutes ofmscrubbing i managed to get one folk of the muzzle break done... i think i may look for something a little stronger lol

 

[Sitting Duck]

Nail varnish remover "might" work but test on a small tiny area first, should be OK on metal but not sure in some plastics

As always test a small inconspicuous area first

 

[Samurai]

You need to leave it for a while in it. I used Dettol and it took half a day for it to get the paint off.