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Double taps mosfet

Dannn

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I've just got lots of components to make one of the double tap mosfets anyone made and used one ?

 
You got a link to this "double tap" MOSFET ???

Tbh it looks like a normal 3034 one without a TVS diode

Which many use even though a 3034 has some basic protection.

By the way you should use the tab for negative motor wire

Keeps voltage well away from 2 outside wires plus the tabe handles much more current

Think it's Rusty's guide or something I based my stuff on

But same meat different gravy

£2 to £2.50 per fet cost if you buy say 10 or more

Just make sure you get GENUINE ones

The snides from fleabay just melt

 
What is underneath basic fet ???

And F U C K ME

them 2 neg wires are close hence tab

Middle n right legs jeez lots of shrink on them

Curious as to the underneath bit thingy

Coz looks thick something or a flat TVS diode??

Soz for commenting, my soldering ain't perfect

I use chunky TVS coz in stubby stocks I got plenty room

Stock tube might be different

 
£19 Gate nano asr mosfet at firesupport.

Will replace for free if it ever fails.

No hassle better made doesn't break the bank.

But 10/10 for having a go yourself.

 
Firestorm fet £10 with thermal fuse delivered

Baby mofo fet if you don't wanna make your own

99.9% fet's blow from bad fitting

The decent ones I mean

Cheap snides fail no matter who fits them

 
And F U C K ME

them 2 neg wires are close hence tab

Middle n right legs jeez lots of shrink on them
My thoughts exactly.

Although to be fair I also thought "nice soldering" the joints themselves are actually quite tidy!

 
It took literally 10 mins to make, I put heat shrink over each joint then heat shrink over the whole thing.

Seems to work as the gun works !

It cost about £4 and av half hour in total to do.

All the parts were from RS components so all decent bits.

 
RS are cheap for 3034's if you buy 10 they are like £1:52 or something...

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/mosfet-transistors/6887204/?searchTerm=IRLB3034PBF&relevancy-data=636F3D3226696E3D4931384E4B6E6F776E41734D504E266C753D656E266D6D3D6D61746368616C6C7061727469616C26706D3D5E5B5C707B4C7D5C707B4E647D2D2C2F255C2E5D2B2426706F3D313326736E3D592673743D4D414E5F504152545F4E554D4245522677633D424F5448267573743D49524C423330333450424626&sra=p

Is where I bought mine from
Cheaper than farnell and free ship on £30 or something like that

Get some wire n some other bits, maybe get a m8 to go halves with ya etc....

People think it's a lot of messing about, best thing is make a few at a time once you got iron up to temp.
Not much effort really, besides you gotta do same amount of soldering n care when fitting a pre-made mosfet

 
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linky for the way I do it:

http://ncairsoft.org/forum/showthread.php?7516-Rusty65-s-MOSFET-building-guide

and also same stuff here:

http://unconventional-airsoft.com/2009/08/26/how-to-make-a-basic-mosfet-switch/

diode is a pain but they use one - so who am I to argue

if you are making one - make a few....

for what it is worth - the #6 bolts equate to our M3.5 bolts

yes M3.5 - M4 is a bit too big to go through fet eyelet and M3 is a bit thin

M3.5 is the bolts used is electric socket/switches in ya house but you need a m3.5 nut spring washer

That is the usual basic fet gospel, some use other mosfet's but the 3034 is said to be one of the best ones available

well that is the way I do it....

only minor difference toi Rusty65 is that I wrap the resistor across fet - leave resistor wire excess for now...

position the diode leg the right leg where it goes - then wrap the excess around diode leg to hold in place & solder

same for signal wire resistor - fitted by wrapping the excess around it & solder

just a bit extra help holding it all together when soldering them to fet legs

get the bits ready & shaped - wrapped together - ttsszz ttsszz - fet done

repeat for other 2 or 3 fets - sorted

 
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it is to prevent any back surge of current or something so the fet bible says.....

I got an alternative spec tvs diode coz could not locate exact model

but similar spec bollox - makes it a bit bulky but like I say I often use stubby fixed stocks for good size cheap block batteries in M4's

v2 will need box opening to install wiring for fet

v3 can be fitted without needing to open up gearbox like in V2's

major decision is how thick the wire you can use and where to locate the fet itself

on its own the fet does jack $hit except protect the contacts on heavier juice

it is an additional device to switch on so in reality I guess it adds a few nano seconds in a normal stock gun

it does not imho give you faster trigger response or make you more attractive to women etc.....

it is when you rewire with thicker wire + deans that the fet comes into its own and it is the other bits that give the faster response

not the mosfet - the fet just allows us to safely switch higher juice for heavier loads on juicy motors etc....

That is where the trigger response comes from - not the fet itself

the fet just manages the bigger juice safely keeping your contacts looking good rather than deep fried

 
I'm no expert - far from it

well even further from it when you see how the real techy pro's can fit these basic 3034's inside their gearboxes:

hrDCw3n.png


yes I am but a humble trainee apprentice noob

actually still think fitting inside a box is not a very wise option

if I wanna change out a basic to AB fet or even a prgrammable one at least I don't have to open gearbox up

but maybe for some compact guns - even AEP's people have managed to squeeze in a fet in the tighest of places

clever mofo's out there - G&G fet dept should take note

 
All this info is great!

I'm gonna girder a few capacitors too, I think I'll be able to fit them in somewhere !

 
Capacitors ????

nah that is old skool way of boosting ya charge on crappy nimah's

really don't think anybody still does that - they just fit bigger and higher burst lipo's

(some yanks go nutz on 14.8v - jjeeeezzz how fast ya need to go chaps)

if ya got lipo you got plenty of mojo

a lot of these guides are old but the fet malarky is still in use

often many still use 3034 as best airsoft fet

the capacitors - like for holding charge is obselete with lipo's now being the norm

they can unleash juice quicker tha you can rip open a carton of Del Monte or Ocean Spray

 
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Ahhhhh I've got 50c 11.1 lipos.. No capacitor needed then haha

 
me thinks not - go for 60c instead - jeeeez

I'm content with 25 to 35c performance atm

plus sticking to 7.4v and squeeze out every last drop

(without the pips or pulp)

 
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