Leo Greer
Members
- Dec 31, 2022
- 328
- 285
Is the Scarab CA motor ferrite or Neodymium?
Ferrite motors are almost always either 28 TPA, or, more commonly, 32 TPA. This is because the weaker magnets need more turns in order to produce any kind of torque.
To clarify, TPA does not actually dictate torque by itself--wire thickness, wrap tightness, etc, all play factors, as well as how strong the magnets themselves are. However, in general, the higher the TPA, the higher the torque.
Neodymium motors typically have much lower TPA due to having much stronger magnets. For example, a 40K motor might be 14 TPA, and a 25K motor might be 22 TPA. Note that these are averaged unloaded speeds--the motor speed changes, sometimes drastically, depending on how the specific motor is made, the batch of magnets, and even where the motor falls on the averaged scale.
For example, SHS high torques are known run at around 35K unloaded and 16 TPA. However, SHS (manufactured by ChiHai Shenzhen) doesn't always use magnets with the same strengths. Neo magnets have different "N" ratings (most common is N35H, stronger but rarer are N52, and everything in between), that control their strength. Thus you can never be 100% sure of the speed of what you're getting (and speed may vary somewhat by individual motor).
Different brands (ASG, Tienly, etc), may use magnets of different strengths. For example, Tienly uses N52, which is one of the reasons Tienly motors are more expensive. Thus, a Tienly with the same TPA as the SHS will be stronger and run cooler at the same speeds.
All that to say, the Scarab motor (if it's neodymium), is probably 31K unloaded speed. Speed under load is less, so doing calcs based off the unloaded speed will give results that are too high. 30K is actually a very normal motor speed, and should produce an ROF of about 18-19 on an 11.1v battery. For example, the original TM EG1000 gave 18 when chronoed on 11.1v (technically in between 12.6v and 11.1v, but I'm approximating, not running exact calcs). This means that the original TM long motor, borrowed from the photocopier industry, is about 30K. 30K should not be too much for your stock gun, especially on 7.4v.
This is assuming the Scarab 31000 is actually a 30K motor and not something random.
For example...
More than one brand of RIF use Neo motors with weak magnets that distort the "balance". For example, Krytac's 30K Neo motor (sold incredibly overpriced online), does run at 30K approx on 11.1v, but the magnets are very weak. Thus, the TPA is not 16. It could be 25 TPA for all I know. Weaker magnets means more TPA needed to limit the motor to the same equivalent speed.
Arcturus currently sends all of their new stock guns out with a 24K 23TPA Neo motor that actually performs more like a 30K, giving 20+ RPS @ 1.6J on 11.1v. Thus, we have a 23TPA 30K equivalent... the magnets are weaker.
At the other end of the spectrum, Tienly puts out a 50K motor that uses ferrite magnets. It's 9TPA, using the strongest ferrite magnets available for the purpose.
Ferrite motors are almost always either 28 TPA, or, more commonly, 32 TPA. This is because the weaker magnets need more turns in order to produce any kind of torque.
To clarify, TPA does not actually dictate torque by itself--wire thickness, wrap tightness, etc, all play factors, as well as how strong the magnets themselves are. However, in general, the higher the TPA, the higher the torque.
Neodymium motors typically have much lower TPA due to having much stronger magnets. For example, a 40K motor might be 14 TPA, and a 25K motor might be 22 TPA. Note that these are averaged unloaded speeds--the motor speed changes, sometimes drastically, depending on how the specific motor is made, the batch of magnets, and even where the motor falls on the averaged scale.
For example, SHS high torques are known run at around 35K unloaded and 16 TPA. However, SHS (manufactured by ChiHai Shenzhen) doesn't always use magnets with the same strengths. Neo magnets have different "N" ratings (most common is N35H, stronger but rarer are N52, and everything in between), that control their strength. Thus you can never be 100% sure of the speed of what you're getting (and speed may vary somewhat by individual motor).
Different brands (ASG, Tienly, etc), may use magnets of different strengths. For example, Tienly uses N52, which is one of the reasons Tienly motors are more expensive. Thus, a Tienly with the same TPA as the SHS will be stronger and run cooler at the same speeds.
All that to say, the Scarab motor (if it's neodymium), is probably 31K unloaded speed. Speed under load is less, so doing calcs based off the unloaded speed will give results that are too high. 30K is actually a very normal motor speed, and should produce an ROF of about 18-19 on an 11.1v battery. For example, the original TM EG1000 gave 18 when chronoed on 11.1v (technically in between 12.6v and 11.1v, but I'm approximating, not running exact calcs). This means that the original TM long motor, borrowed from the photocopier industry, is about 30K. 30K should not be too much for your stock gun, especially on 7.4v.
This is assuming the Scarab 31000 is actually a 30K motor and not something random.
For example...
More than one brand of RIF use Neo motors with weak magnets that distort the "balance". For example, Krytac's 30K Neo motor (sold incredibly overpriced online), does run at 30K approx on 11.1v, but the magnets are very weak. Thus, the TPA is not 16. It could be 25 TPA for all I know. Weaker magnets means more TPA needed to limit the motor to the same equivalent speed.
Arcturus currently sends all of their new stock guns out with a 24K 23TPA Neo motor that actually performs more like a 30K, giving 20+ RPS @ 1.6J on 11.1v. Thus, we have a 23TPA 30K equivalent... the magnets are weaker.
At the other end of the spectrum, Tienly puts out a 50K motor that uses ferrite magnets. It's 9TPA, using the strongest ferrite magnets available for the purpose.
so a punch was applied to the outside of the shell and tapped with a hammer a couple of times, before the penny dropped. However I didn't smash the hammer, the lower receiver still looks absolutely straight, and it was a tight fit anyway. Maybe I've budged it by some tiny amount though.
