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CYMA PLATINUM MP5 7.4v or 11.1v

Haru

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I have the cyma plat mp5 upgraded version from patrolbase, I'm currently running with 7.4v lipos and the gun feels really nice. Patrolbase recommends 11.1v but I've heard stories of cyma mosfets burning and some say they've fixed that problem with the new batch. Can anyone shed some light on this?

 
I don't know what voltage he was using, but I know someone who had the Cyma platinum mp5 and his mosfet burned out. Not the end of the world, he just replaced it with a Perun, as the stock Cyma mosfets aren't the greatest.

 
I don't know what voltage he was using, but I know someone who had the Cyma platinum mp5 and his mosfet burned out. Not the end of the world, he just replaced it with a Perun, as the stock Cyma mosfets aren't the greatest.
yeah, figured the mosfet will burn eventually, wondering what the life expectancy will be with 11.1s tho. I'd like to get a good amount of use out of it before needing to replace anything

 
The issue with the CYMA is not a MOSFET. A MOSFET is a chip that allows the vast majority of the power to flow directly from the battery to the motor, instead of through the trigger contacts.

The issue is with the trigger mechanism, which is a very small microswitch. When unprotected microswitches experience vibration, the contacts bounce, causing current to switch on and off sometimes thousands of times a second. This causes immense heat build up, and burns these units out quickly.

It’s impossible to predict exactly when they will burn out. I’ve seen some burn out within a couple games, and some last for more like 3-4 game days. They will do this on any battery, as it’s not the voltage but the current doing the damage due to CYMA’s design flaw.

It’s a critical issue with the series and I don’t know why people recommend them. As long as people are still buying, CYMA isn’t fixing.

You can replace them flatly for an excellent Perun Hybrid ETU.

 
The issue with the CYMA is not a MOSFET. A MOSFET is a chip that allows the vast majority of the power to flow directly from the battery to the motor, instead of through the trigger contacts.

The issue is with the trigger mechanism, which is a very small microswitch. When unprotected microswitches experience vibration, the contacts bounce, causing current to switch on and off sometimes thousands of times a second. This causes immense heat build up, and burns these units out quickly.

It’s impossible to predict exactly when they will burn out. I’ve seen some burn out within a couple games, and some last for more like 3-4 game days. They will do this on any battery, as it’s not the voltage but the current doing the damage due to CYMA’s design flaw.

It’s a critical issue with the series and I don’t know why people recommend them. As long as people are still buying, CYMA isn’t fixing.

You can replace them flatly for an excellent Perun Hybrid ETU.
funnily enough my cyma has stopped working after a single skirmish. just waiting for my perun hybrid to come through the mail now. hopefully i dont make it any worse than it already is

 
funnily enough my cyma has stopped working after a single skirmish. just waiting for my perun hybrid to come through the mail now. hopefully i dont make it any worse than it already is
The Perun should be a flat drop in replacement, so assuming you can get the gearbox back together correctly (YouTube is amazing here), you’ll be doing well.

 
The issue with the CYMA is not a MOSFET. A MOSFET is a chip that allows the vast majority of the power to flow directly from the battery to the motor, instead of through the trigger contacts.

The issue is with the trigger mechanism, which is a very small microswitch. When unprotected microswitches experience vibration, the contacts bounce, causing current to switch on and off sometimes thousands of times a second. This causes immense heat build up, and burns these units out quickly.

It’s impossible to predict exactly when they will burn out. I’ve seen some burn out within a couple games, and some last for more like 3-4 game days. They will do this on any battery, as it’s not the voltage but the current doing the damage due to CYMA’s design flaw.

It’s a critical issue with the series and I don’t know why people recommend them. As long as people are still buying, CYMA isn’t fixing.

You can replace them flatly for an excellent Perun Hybrid ETU.
I bought one of these a year or so ago. Barely used, as I love the look and don't want to ruin the rif outside. I've only used 2s and .28's, and find it more than adequate. I've watched YouTube and read forums and it seems if you run it with 3s you will burn the MOSFET quickly. I may get a perun (or similar), ahead of time and be ready for the inevitable. This MP5 is too nice to be stuck on the wall or the back of a cupboard...

 
I bought one of these a year or so ago. Barely used, as I love the look and don't want to ruin the rif outside. I've only used 2s and .28's, and find it more than adequate. I've watched YouTube and read forums and it seems if you run it with 3s you will burn the MOSFET quickly. I may get a perun (or similar), ahead of time and be ready for the inevitable. This MP5 is too nice to be stuck on the wall or the back of a cupboard...
The weight of BBs used will not have any impact on the longevity of the trigger unit.

 
I bought one of these a year or so ago. Barely used, as I love the look and don't want to ruin the rif outside. I've only used 2s and .28's, and find it more than adequate. I've watched YouTube and read forums and it seems if you run it with 3s you will burn the MOSFET quickly. I may get a perun (or similar), ahead of time and be ready for the inevitable. This MP5 is too nice to be stuck on the wall or the back of a cupboard...
Who ever said this on a Youtube video, unsubscribe immediately 

 
I've watched YouTube and read forums and it seems if you run it with 3s you will burn the MOSFET quickly. I may get a perun (or similar), ahead of time and be ready for the inevitable. 
Youve been here for over two years, and THAT'S your first post ........

View attachment 144488

 
I bought one of these a year or so ago. Barely used, as I love the look and don't want to ruin the rif outside. I've only used 2s and .28's, and find it more than adequate. I've watched YouTube and read forums and it seems if you run it with 3s you will burn the MOSFET quickly. I may get a perun (or similar), ahead of time and be ready for the inevitable. This MP5 is too nice to be stuck on the wall or the back of a cupboard...
I hate when my .5g bb’s mess with my bolt action mosfet ?

 
Actually, I wonder if the '3s' comment was actually referring to an 11.1 battery - 11.1 three cell batteries are frequently (especially in RC car territory) referred to as being '3s'.  What the guy was saying is that he has happily run on a 7.4 without a drama, but he had heard that 11.1 may risk the mosfet (which is true).

There - i bet you all feel bad now for taking the p$ss!!

 
Actually, I wonder if the '3s' comment was actually referring to an 11.1 battery - 11.1 three cell batteries are frequently (especially in RC car territory) referred to as being '3s'.  What the guy was saying is that he has happily run on a 7.4 without a drama, but he had heard that 11.1 may risk the mosfet (which is true).

There - i bet you all feel bad now for taking the p$ss!!
Don't you dare give him a "get out of jail free card", & spoil all our fun?

 
Actually, I wonder if the '3s' comment was actually referring to an 11.1 battery


Don't you dare bring context into our ignorant rants. ?

On topic, I run everything on 11.1V now, if I can physically fit one.  If you're into buying 3-figure toys that are guaranteed to hang on a wall for almost all of the time, why fret over the possibility that one component might fail?  Especially when you can replace anything, or bypass it with 20p of wire and solder.

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