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Custom Pistol Build Thread

Those color combos are pretty sick! Could you let me know where do you get the limcat slides? I've been meaning to get in to a full-on Hi capa build but can't seem to find decent slides anywhere..


Kyle @ Hi Capa Hub is where you want to go.

He's virtually taken over from Mike and his Elite site now and very often if you message can get in bespoke or one off stuff if you want to go super special. I know a build he's just done and my gosh it's like ticking every optional extra lmao

 
Kyle is definitely THE go to Hicapa guy in the UK.

Shit at Zorb football though, eh @Steveocee

 
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was pleased with how these cheeky chappies turned out
Jesus! Those are some unique builds; I have so many questions 

How did you get a patterned finish like that on the first gun? Is it hydro dipped?

How/who/where is it possible to fit wood grips on hi capa grips? 

Kyle @ Hi Capa Hub is where you want to go.


THE go to Hicapa guy in the UK.
I see. That's great there's someone akin to Mike from ESC, I initially contacted him for the Cerakote but was sad to hear he's now retiring.

 
Jesus! Those are some unique builds; I have so many questions 

How did you get a patterned finish like that on the first gun? Is it hydro dipped?

How/who/where is it possible to fit wood grips on hi capa grips? 

I see. That's great there's someone akin to Mike from ESC, I initially contacted him for the Cerakote but was sad to hear he's now retiring.
The splash pattern is anodised, I got it done to match a KC02

It’s a pattern that Rogueworx call Nightwind. I’ve got another Capa/KC combo in a splatter pattern called High Roller but I’d been holding off on sharing it much until my 4.3 Adv frame arrives

View attachment 91049

View attachment 91050

The 4.3 frame, rare as they are, has been sourced for me by Kyle as he’s a total legend and may even be inbound.

Wooden Capa grips are from a brand called Pandora Arms. They’re very thin covers that just adhere to the standard TM grip. They’re really beautiful but time will tell if they’re up to taking a hit!

 
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Ah I see. Didn't realize you could anodize in patterns like that! That loadout looks like something straight out of a videogame haha

Please do share pics once it's finished!

 
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Kyle is definitely THE go to Hicapa guy in the UK.

Shit at Zorb football though, eh @Steveocee


Was waiting for you and your babies to show up in here lol. Got to agree with this statement as well. He is shit at zorb football lmao

 
Airsoft masterpiece, the top two are now full airsoft masterpiece and the open class is airsoft masterpiece slide and slide internals and everything from the frame down is stock tm 4.3 silver with an aftermarket magwell . The lim at perfect sight no longer looks like that anymore as I wore the slide out to the point it won’t feed as there is too much slop so it now looks like this.

View attachment 91169

I found the perfect sight the best balanced hicapa due to the increased weight on the end of the steel barrel and lack of slide mass reciprocating.

the new slide is as light due to the significant cuts and I have fitted a steel bulk barrel to keep the weight at the front 

View attachment 91170

Edit: the black slide may be a gunsmith bros

 
The lim at perfect sight no longer looks like that anymore as I wore the slide out to the point it won’t feed as there is too much slop


Just curious, about how long (time or roundcount, whichever comes first) does it take to wear out an aluminum hi capa slide to the point it's non-functional?

I've seen on other platforms alu kitted guns with 10+ years of hard skirmish use and still kicking

 
5 years of use, once week for an average of  300 bbs a session,  both slide and frame have a little wear in combination that results in vertical play in the slide so the nozzle jams. Both work perfectly with other slide /frame combinations just not together any more.

It may also be a problem with the perfect sight as once the slide cycles all the mass at the front of the slide Is gone so any play shows up even more

 
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Tried something new other than the usual 1911 stuff over the weekend and prepped my TM G18C frame before stippling.

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The initial idea behind this build was strictly "form follows function", where everything on it would serve some sort of utilitarian purpose.

Eventually that approach skewed into adding all the tactical accoutrements that I see in the airsoft & real-steel community.

The end-goal now is to have it so ridiculously Gucci'd-out that it looks like something out of a sci-fi film.

View attachment 91253

Started by removing finger grooves. Used 120 grit sandpaper with a hard sanding block. Didn't bother going any higher than 120 since the frame will be stippled anyway. I don't have a dremel tool so taped off parts to minimize scratches from filing/sanding. The frame is a Guarder aftermarket part for a gen 3 G17.

View attachment 91224

Thumb rests also removed

View attachment 91225

Couldn't really take too many pics of the process as I was covered in black nylon fiber powder most of the time. Here's some of the modifications and the reasoning behind them.

Finger grooves removed and undercut triggerguard: Rolled up some 120 grit on a hammer handle and hand sanded, adding a chamfering bevel on each side afterwards. Surprised how much of a difference this makes. You can grip so much higher on the gun almost to the point where your grip angle changes. If you had to do just one mod I would recommend the undercut. Some RS shops seem to polish this part to a mirror finish but I just left it gritty as it might cause blisters if too smooth.

View attachment 91226

Thumb rest removal and mag release scallop. I've seen these mods on some of the higher end Glocks that come out of custom shops and such. However, unlike the RS frames, airsoft frames don't seem to have enough thickness in this area create a deep enough scallop for any meaningful difference. It does make the mag release a bit easier to reach without breaking my extra-medium sized grip, but wish I could cut out a little more. Will probably add a border when stippling to make the scallop stand out a bit more visually.

View attachment 91229

Some RS examples of "scallops". Tried to copy the round style of the ATEI G19 (leftmost photo). Note how much deeper the scallop cut is. Airsoft frames don't have much material here.

View attachment 91233

Internals and short-stroking: The build started off with making sure everything that reciprocates is as light and frictionless as possible, while anything that doesn't is as heavy as possible.

All the lower parts and the hop up are steel/stainless, while the moving parts are more weight-conscious (7075 slide, lightweight BBU with polymer backplate, non-tilting outer barrel, etc.). While this makes the cycling speed akin to the plastic stock version, I really wanted something faster, something that would go brrrrrrt on regular 144a gas- so I short stroked it like a madman. 

View attachment 91237

Filed back the slide stop ~14mm to allow it to lock back while short stroked. Image below shows the difference in travel compared to stock. The only concern is the slide itself slightly thinner in this area than where the notch used to be. Fingers crossed it holds up; but if it doesn't I'll just short stroke it some more? 

View attachment 91238

Some ideas I'm playing with for the next steps. I really want to go all-in with the weight reduction concept and mill out some slide windows that agree with the general design language of the gun. It'll probably only save about 5 grams but would still look pretty good. They would also serve as forward cocking serrations since the selector switch doesn't really provide a comfortable grip to rack the slide. Which one do you prefer : (A) moderate and matching with the top port or (B) full length ports all the way to the chamber ?

View attachment 91247

View attachment 91249

By the way, does anyone have any recommendations for stippling services? Looking for some place that does laser stippling or soldering. Not really confident that I'll be able to create clean borders doing it myself.

 
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Not a candle to the length you’ve gone to on that Glock but my GSB4.3 frame arrived. 

Total weight of the build with mag/tracer and torch is less than a stock TM 4.3 without a mag

View attachment 91259

803g vs 825g for an unloaded, naked TM

 
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Damn! That's pretty light for a hi capa.. Don't tell me that's real carbon fiber on the tracer can???

Also nice to see a fellow chad Olight enjoyer

The machine says that your hi capa is for £3.95, I can take it off your hands for an even £4 ?

 
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Damn! That's pretty light for a hi capa.. Don't tell me that's real carbon fiber on the tracer can???

Also nice to see a fellow chad Olight enjoyer
Its a vinyl wrap because the Chingrish on the tracer just let the whole thing down.

The O lights are incredible. I’m amazed by the difference in brightness between the PL2 and the generic/nuprol lights I see people play with

 
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