Can anyone recommend a good gearbox SHELL?

[Longshot]

After a fair bit of hard use over the last couple of years the gearbox shell on my G&P Sentry has decided to die. I noticed a couple of small pieces of metal fall out of the magwell so I opened it up and there were cracks on the front part of the shell. I thought: "I know what will be a good idea - I'll pull the trigger and see what happens!" It was not a good idea. Pieces of gearbox shell everywhere.

So, I need a new gearbox shell for a V2 gearbox with 8mm bushings. What brand do people recommend these days?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Unrustle_Thine_Jimmies]

Lonex/ASG ultimate-Very precisely made. Although it's Zamak It's a strong alloy. Good tolerances,reinforced in the right places and cast well. Very popular shell for it's reasonable price,good construction and strength. It's probably the most popular one I know of locally. You can find them in a lot of UK shops,often rebranded under ASG ULTIMATE who also rebrand a load of Lonex parts.Airlab have them for a good price.

http://www.air-lab.co.uk/lonex-gearbox-shell-v2.html

SHS/PPS/Super Shooter make 'CastNC' shells which are advertised as CNC machined but in Reality are injection molded and finished with CNC just for looks. Made out of 7075 aluminium which is by itself a fair bit stronger than the Zamak used in a lot of shell,although It's probably not heat treated so It is not as strong as an MThaynes or Cradle shell.

Bit pricey though.But good quality and popular.

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/super-shooter-7075-cnc-aluminum-ver-2-gearbox-shell.html#.U0rB7PldVN0

JG shells are also quite strong and very very very cheap.Made of Zamak,but again,a strong alloy. Tolerances might be a bit 'off'(But no where near as bad as some CYMA shells I've seen) and some casting burrs about,there may also be some excess material around where the gears sit. However for the price and the strength you cannot complain.

http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/product_detail1.php?search_From=searchItem&item=JG-M-134&search=special&rs=Jing%20Gong%20gearbox&catid=&cat=&view_choice=c

In the future to prevent cracking,RADIUS YOUR CYLINDER WINDOW CORNERS. This reduces a great amount of stress of the front part of the V2.

Also,Correct your angle of engagement on the piston with sorbothane pads. Not only will you help reduce shock on the GB shell but you will also prolong the life of your piston. Don;t use metal piston heads too,they offer no real benefits and only add premature wear.

 

[Longshot]

Now that is an outstanding post, thanks.

Loner is my forerunner at the moment; WGC have them in and I'll be ordering some bits for my new AK from there soon anyway.

The only other one that's been getting a few recommendations is the Modify Torus shell. Do you know anything about that one UTJ?

Also, your the second person to tell me about 'radiusing.' What is this?

 

[RR01]

Radiusing means to file a small curve into the forward end of the gearbox shell where the front part of the cylinder meets the thin part of the shell. A right angle will transfer the stresses caused by the continual pounding of the piston into the weakest part of the gearbox (the front), so causing it to fail. By putting a small curve on the corners you move the stresses into the whole of the front portion, eliminating the weakest point, although it doesn't stop it entirely. The ideal thing is to use a small round metal modelling file to take the sharp corners off the front oblong opening that the cylinder sits in.

 

[Unrustle_Thine_Jimmies]

Dunno about the modify Torus shell. Looks like a modified copy of the ProWin shells. Bit expensive methinks,if you are going for a pricey shell may as well get a 7075 castnc one.

 

[dex]

+1 for Lonex.

 

[Mr Monkey Nuts]

+2 for lonex. And don't call me Shell.