Broken TM Aug, please help me figure!

[Rock-climby-Dave]

with the motors, If they are put through a lot of stress/get worn out naturally, they can short circuit inside.

Motors are a magnet with wire wrapped around them, the more wraps, the more power the motor has

if the insulation between the wires is melted the wires can touch and create a short circuit

this short means the current doesnt flow round all the wraps, effectivley removing them from the circuit

this gives the motor less power

if the motor jumps around when there is a current passed through it, it should still be able to pull the gears

touching the motor to the battery straight off shouldn't do any damage, the circuit is basically just a battery, motor and switch (as you have removed the fuse)

 

[Bluegill]

Thanks Devastator, I did look at that thread and then got distracted!

Dave,

In simple terms, what would you say is the easiest way to connect the battery to the motor to test it? Which wires?

Shall I remove the red wire currently attached to the motor and replace it with the fuse holder nearest the battery? Surely that'd complete the circuit?

 

[Rock-climby-Dave]

don't need to replace it, you can probably just touch the fuse connector onto the motor conenctor, there should be just enough visible metal to touch them together.

and remember, if you are holding the motor, don't hold the 'spinny' end and if it works properly, It WILL want to jump out of your hand.

 

[Bluegill]

Ok, I've not got high hopes for this motor though as I've already touched the two red wires (with white arrows) in the picture together and have just had no results. Not even a teeny blip. What's the score if the motor is gone? Buy a new motor?

S'pose (hope) it could be a dodgy wire!

 

[REMSoft]

Ok, I've not got high hopes for this motor though as I've already touched the two red wires (with white arrows) in the picture together and have just had no results. Not even a teeny blip. What's the score if the motor is gone? Buy a new motor?
S'pose (hope) it could be a dodgy wire!

Hope so. Borrow an ammeter from someone.

 

[Bluegill]

I'll do just that REM, cheers mate. I've not had a chance to put it back together yet but when I do, I'll report back.

 

[Bluegill]

Right, well I've got the setup in front of me. Yet again I've spent ages trying to get a connection and wriggle the wires around to see if there are any loose connections/broken wires but I've got nothing.

I must admit, it's got me quite frustrated, should in theory be an easy thing to diagnose but doesn't seem to be!

My view is that due to me not getting anything at all out of the motor when connected, it's either

a) A broken motor, in which case I'll have to get a new one anyway so may aswell investigate b!

b ) A problem in the circuit that would require removing connectors and re-wiring...

Just seems it's hard to distinguish at this point if I'm wasting my time on trying to sort the circuit when it could just be the motor...

A little disheartened...

Nick

 

[Rock-climby-Dave]

If ya can't diagnose, it is probably worth taking it to a shop

 

[Bluegill]

OMG the trigger assembly is RIDICULOUS on this gun! Oh how I wish it was simple!!! I can't even get it back together!

I'm going to bed, but will attempt more tomorrow.

I now see (and feel) why people that are new to airsoft look like idiots if they faff with mechboxes!

 

[REMSoft]

OMG the trigger assembly is RIDICULOUS on this gun! Oh how I wish it was simple!!! I can't even get it back together!
I'm going to bed, but will attempt more tomorrow.

I now see (and feel) why people that are new to airsoft look like idiots if they faff with mechboxes!

Did you get the trigger system back together? I could take mine apart and demonstrate if necessary.

 

[Bluegill]

Would you mate, that'd be much appreciated!

 

[Bluegill]

I plan to rewire the gearbox this week (same configuration) and obviously that requires more wire!

What would be the best wire to use? I've read that both 16AWG & 18AWG are suitable but are there any variations in the types of these 2 gauges? What would be the best and sort of relatively affordable wire to go for?

Cheers

 

[Deva]

Component shop stock wire of different gauges, as far as I'm aware there is no difference between wire of the same gauge.

If you check the current wire you should be able to see what AWG wire is currently being used (16/18) and I'd just go for the same again

 

[Bluegill]

Cheers Dev, you've helped me in my seemingly impossible quest to fix this ###### thing

Cheers mate, I'll have a look!

I tell you what, this gun better be good when I'm done!!!

 

[REMSoft]

Cheers Dev, you've helped me in my seemingly impossible quest to fix this ###### thing
Cheers mate, I'll have a look!

I tell you what, this gun better be good when I'm done!!!

If not, I'll be there to catch it when you throw it off of that building!

 

[Bluegill]

If not, I'll be there to catch it when you throw it off of that building!

Hahahaha you're just waiting for my failure!!!

I read the wires and they're Sanyo. All they say is <PS>E JET SANYO DENSEN VSF 2002.

lol, I was baffled by that. Had a look on component shop- going to get 2 metres of 16 & 2 metres of 18. It's a great price so can afford to try things!

You guys here are brilliant! Cheers!

 

[Bluegill]

A small update, for those who care

We got it together today and my mechbox is once again 'one' item rather than 2170459730497125 bits. It's still not working but we think it may be that I have the incorrect battery charger. It's a NiCd charger and my battery is a 8.4 NiMh Stupid me, I just *assumed* that it'd be alright.

We tested various parts of the circuit and all of it was fine, even the circuit running through the motor. Might still be the motor.

Next test (and yet another question for you) will be to get myself a smart charger. Are there any decent but affordable ones about that you know of? If I can discount the battery then I'm finally at the knackered motor diagnosis.

Any help much appreciated!

 

[Deva]

Again check component shop, cheapest one is £12.99

http://component-shop.co.uk/html/body_airsoft_chargers.html

 

[Bluegill]

I've gone one better Dev and bought the next one up with a little more power. Brill stuff, cheers mate.

 

[Bluegill]

It is with the utmost relief and mass thanks that I can now announce that I have one fully working Tokyo Marui Military AUG (Sorry REMsoft :lol: )

You guys are going to think I'm such a tool. You know what it was eventually?...

The battery not being charged...Yep, that's right.

I bought a new battery for it a while back and my charger had the 'charging' light lit up so I had assumed that the battery was charging, but it didn't have a cutoff feature so had just guessed when it may be charged. When (upon REMsoft's excellent advice) I used a Multimeter to check the voltage of the battery, I found out it wasn't charged and had about .8V in it. Bought a 1000MaH charger for airsoft from Componentshop (cheers Dev) and charged it today. I got home and plugged it in...I was like WTF!? AUGasm :lol:

I s'pose the good thing is that a) The gun is working and B ) I now know my way around a V3 mechbox and understand how gears work and pistons fire etc.

Brill stuff,

Cheers!

Nick