AEG Parts Breakdown

[AshOnSnow]

Building a new DMR, I've decided to build this one myself rather than entrust it to a tech start to finish (I learned that the hard way!)

I've worked with real firearms, and I've upgraded my VSR, but I'm a little confused at what parts are needed and where within an AEG, as there seem to be a LOT of parts that don't appear on tuneup kits etc. So, I wonder if I listed the parts I would put into a real DMR, if you could help fill me in on what would be the airsoft equivalent to them in terms of placement and/or purpose. I've made guesses, but there are bits missing and I may be wrong in some (or all!) cases.

Upper Receiver

1. Bolt Assembly - Cylinder Group?
   
2. Charging Handle - Retracts an outer shell beneath the dust cover?
   
3. Forward Assist - Redundant?
   

Lower Receiver

1. Selector - How does this tie in with electronic gearboxes?
   
2. Bolt Catch - Releases the outer shell beneath the dust cover?
   
3. Trigger Group - Do you get airsoft triggers groups complete for AEGs?
   
4. Pin Set - Same
   
5. Trigger Pins - Same
   
6. Magazine Catch - Same
   
7. Receiver extension - airsoft buffer tube (is this a standard fitting?)
   
8. Buffer - redundant?
   
9. End plate - same
   
10. Stock - same
    
11. Grip - presumably has to house the gearbox, how does one fit this?
    

Barrel

1. Barrel - airsoft has an inner and outer. How do these fit?
   
2. Gas Tube - redundant, dummy?
   
3. Gas Block - redundant, dummy?
   
4. Barrel Nut - same?
   
5. Delta Ring - redundant?
   
6. Handguard - will real handguards fit airsoft receivers and outer barrels?
   

 

[Hami]

i'd recommend watching some gun disassembly videos to get an idea of how it all fits together

I assume you're going for an AR platform. 

Upper Receiver- covers  the top part of the  gearbox and hop up chamber

1. Bolt Assembly - Cylinder Group? 
   
2. Charging Handle - Retracts an outer shell beneath the dust cover?  correct, needed to adjust hop
   
3. Forward Assist - Redundant? aesthetic 
   

Lower Receiver

1. Selector - How does this tie in with electronic gearboxes? the selector plate in gearbox is moved by the switch 
   
2. Bolt Catch - Releases the outer shell beneath the dust cover? Some new ones do this, most are aesthetic 
   
3. Trigger Group - Do you get airsoft triggers groups complete for AEGs?   The trigger is attached to the gearbox
   
4. Pin Set - Same 
   
5. Trigger Pins - Same
   
6. Magazine Catch - Same 
   
7. Receiver extension - airsoft buffer tube (is this a standard fitting?) Not sure if its the same across all brands but i think so 
   
8. Buffer - redundant? buffer tubes are hollow on AEGs, allows for battery
   
9. End plate - same
   
10. Stock - same
    
11. Grip - presumably has to house the gearbox, how does one fit this?  This will house the motor that drives the gearbox 
    

Barrel

1. Barrel - airsoft has an inner and outer. How do these fit? The inner barrel goes through the outer barret connecting to the gearbox by the hop up unit (think chamber in real gun)
   
2. Gas Tube - redundant, dummy? aesthetic 
   
3. Gas Block - redundant, dummy? aesthetic
   
4. Barrel Nut - same?  not sure if real steel fits
   
5. Delta Ring - redundant? you'll need the 
   
6. Handguard - will real handguards fit airsoft receivers and outer barrels?  depends on brand but most will with modification 
   

You can get most parts quite easily. If you want you can either build a gearbox from scratch or buy a pre built one

hope that helps 

 

[Iceni]

there is no internal realism on an M4 based aeg.

The gearbox takes up most of the space in the upper and lower receiver. The motor is in the pistol grip. There is no bolt and all of the moving parts that make the gun work are in the gearbox.

That is what a cross section of an AEG looks like. The gearbox is one whole sealed part that can be removed.

The motor is in the pistol grip.


There is no internal comparison between a gas gun and an AEG, and very few interchangeable parts.


The bolt is always a fake plate or perhaps not there at all depending on the gun. It does nothing unless it's an electronic blowback gun then the plate slides and clacks about.

The body pins work as normal won't let you drop the rear pin and split the gun upwards. You have to remove both pins and slide the upper forwards off the lower. This is because of how the airseal nozzle interacts with the hop unit.

The selector operates a plate on the side of the gearbox. It allows the cut off lever to either kick (semi) or not kick (auto). Safe is done with a pushed lever inside the gearbox that physically stops the trigger moving.

Bolt catches may or may not function depending on the gun. EBB guns they tend to function to hold the bolt plate back to adjust the hop. Cheaper guns it's just for show. Some more expensive models might have more function like TM recoil guns.

Trigger pins. There are none. You get 2 types of AEG trigger. Pushed dolly mechanical contacts like above, or microswitch/optical.

Mag catch is normally just a basic sprung bar that catches the mags. Nothing fancy and they generally don't interact with anything else.

Buffer tubes are for show, It's normally where the battery is stored on crane stocks, On solid stocks there will be no internal buffer tube.

End plates have a hole through for the wires to the stock. You can get tactical end plates with sling mounts.

Pistol grips screw to the gearbox, then a motor slides in and there is an end cap that holds it all in place. You do not get hollow AEG pistol grips.

Barrels slide in each other, The outer is a show barrel and offers protection to the inner. The inner barrel does all the work.

Gas tube redundant
Gas block redundant

Barrel nuts hold on the outer barrel, It's rare that an upper and barrel are one piece construction. Some manufacturers use radically different methods of attaching an outer barrel.

Delta rings are a pain in the ass. Every brand has a different size, none seem to interchange well. They often have to be modified if you change the RIS.

Real steel parts. Possibly might fit with modification. Airsoft parts tend to be vastly cheaper. It's the modification of the parts that is the killer as you may have to make an expensive part no longer fit for a real gun to work.





For tuning a gearbox you have a few basics.

The main spring governs the FPS (Joule output). Every brand is slightly different in output. A decent gearbox will have a QC system that lets you change the mainspring without needing to open the gearbox.

The motor and gears have to be balanced to the main spring. High torque motors and the correct ratio of gears will allow you to pull bigger springs.

The more Joules a spring is rated for The more stress the gearbox takes. For 450fps you need a full steel rack on the piston rather than the standard single metal tooth piston. And metal bushings or bearings.

Gearboxes need to be shimmed correctly, this is even more important in high stress builds and the gears will want to tweak out, and this encourages them to strip.

Basic triggers are bullet proof, but have long trigger travel and no feeling. Microswitches are better but you have to run them with a mosfet, Modified selector and perhaps a modified cut off lever, Kits are available. Optical has no break at all again, but a precise trigger point that can be adjusted in software, very expensive £100+.

Airseal is critical. Cylinder head, Piston head, Airseal nozzle, Hop rubber. There are loads of threads on this.



Basic advice would be to pick up a cheap gun or gearbox to mess with. You'll know what you are getting into as soon as you open the gearbox and all the springs come flying at your face. It's like rebuilding a watch, Everything has to be just right for it to go back together.

AK2M4 do a very good gearbox that will go into an M4 platform for £45. Or the classifieds on here and get a broken Version 2 gearbox gun and repair it.... It's harder than you might think and may well put you off AEG's for life!!!


 

 

[AshOnSnow]

there is no internal realism on an M4 based aeg.

The gearbox takes up most of the space in the upper and lower receiver. The motor is in the pistol grip. There is no bolt and all of the moving parts that make the gun work are in the gearbox.




That is what a cross section of an AEG looks like. The gearbox is one whole sealed part that can be removed.

The motor is in the pistol grip.


There is no internal comparison between a gas gun and an AEG, and very few interchangeable parts.


The bolt is always a fake plate or perhaps not there at all depending on the gun. It does nothing unless it's an electronic blowback gun then the plate slides and clacks about.

The body pins work as normal won't let you drop the rear pin and split the gun upwards. You have to remove both pins and slide the upper forwards off the lower. This is because of how the airseal nozzle interacts with the hop unit.

The selector operates a plate on the side of the gearbox. It allows the cut off lever to either kick (semi) or not kick (auto). Safe is done with a pushed lever inside the gearbox that physically stops the trigger moving.

Bolt catches may or may not function depending on the gun. EBB guns they tend to function to hold the bolt plate back to adjust the hop. Cheaper guns it's just for show. Some more expensive models might have more function like TM recoil guns.

Trigger pins. There are none. You get 2 types of AEG trigger. Pushed dolly mechanical contacts like above, or microswitch/optical.

Mag catch is normally just a basic sprung bar that catches the mags. Nothing fancy and they generally don't interact with anything else.

Buffer tubes are for show, It's normally where the battery is stored on crane stocks, On solid stocks there will be no internal buffer tube.

End plates have a hole through for the wires to the stock. You can get tactical end plates with sling mounts.

Pistol grips screw to the gearbox, then a motor slides in and there is an end cap that holds it all in place. You do not get hollow AEG pistol grips.

Barrels slide in each other, The outer is a show barrel and offers protection to the inner. The inner barrel does all the work.

Gas tube redundant
Gas block redundant

Barrel nuts hold on the outer barrel, It's rare that an upper and barrel are one piece construction.

Delta rings are a pain in the ass. Every brand has a different size, none seem to interchange well. They often have to be modified if you change the RIS.

Real steel parts. Possibly might fit with modification. Airsoft parts tend to be vastly cheaper. It's the modification of the parts that is the killer as you may have to make an expensive part no longer fit for a real gun to work.





For tuning a gearbox you have a few basics.

The main spring governs the FPS (Joule output). Every brand is slightly different in output. A decent gearbox will have a QC system that lets you change the mainspring without needing to open the gearbox.

The motor and gears have to be balanced to the main spring. High torque motors and the correct ratio of gears will allow you to pull bigger springs.

The more Joules a spring is rated for The more stress the gearbox takes. For 450fps you need a full steel rack on the piston rather than the standard single metal tooth piston. And metal bushings or bearings.

Gearboxes need to be shimmed correctly, this is even more important in high stress builds and the gears will want to tweak out, and this encourages them to strip.

Basic triggers are bullet proof, but have long trigger travel and no feeling. Microswitches are better but you have to run them with a mosfet, Modified selector and perhaps a modified cut off lever, Kits are available. Optical has no break at all again, but a precise trigger point that can be adjusted in software, very expensive £100+.

Airseal is critical. Cylinder head, Piston head, Airseal nozzle, Hop rubber. There are loads of threads on this.



Basic advice would be to pick up a cheap gun or gearbox to mess with. You'll know what you are getting into as soon as you open the gearbox and all the springs come flying at your face. It's like rebuilding a watch, Everything has to be just right for it to go back together.

AK2M4 do a very good gearbox that will go into an M4 platform for £45. Or the classifieds on here and get a broken Version 2 gearbox gun and repair it.... It's harder than you might think and may well put you off AEG's for life!!!


 

Someone make this reply a sticky 

 

[AshOnSnow]

In terms of the gearbox, specs are showing towards receivers hosting Version 2 Extended gearboxes. Will these still accept standard motors and pinion gears?

 

[Iceni]

Extended gearboxes run some slightly modified parts.

More teeth on the sector gear (the gear that pulls the piston).
More teeth on the piston and it's longer with more travel.
Longer cylinder.

The gears are normal dimensions and a standard motor will drive them.

The SA80 L85 normally runs one of these. Not all Sr25's do you have to check the specs.

Because of the increased volume in the cylinder you run into a few features of those boxes:
They can run longer inner barrels.
They get different Joule outputs for the springs.

Guns that run them are designed to have the longer cylinder. You can't drop an extended gearbox into a standard gun.

Often V2.5 boxes are split, So the upper cylinder part of the gearbox can be removed from the lower gears part of the gearbox. ICS and G&G Sa80's do this I belive.

 

 

[AshOnSnow]

Looks like A&K have one of the best foundations with which to build an SR-25 on. The larger cylinder volume suggests that for firing 0.40 and 0.43g, with a PDI 6.01 barrel, 509mm would be an ideal length. I could run a 554mm but there wouldn't be really any advantage to that unless I was shooting 0.25s

SHS seems to be the standard for piston, but it's polymer. "Army Force" (never heard of them) offer a CNC aluminium piston with steel teeth in the 19-tooth layout for SR25.

MOSFET will be critical if I'm to run an 11.1V battery, but between 25C and 30C lipo? Also I'm torn between a SOPMOD stock like the L129A1, or a Magpul PRS, so compact enough to fit inside the buffer tube is a must. I don't put out much ammo in a game, even less so in a marksman role (perhaps 500rds across the course of the day, at most?) so I'm not particularly concerned with compromising a lower mAh battery if it'll be more compact.

Lots of different options on motors. Will need a nudge in the right direction here. Looking at the problems some people encounter with stronger springs, the Madbull M140 Non-Linear might be a good choice. M150, with good seals, might creep over the 500 mark through the 6.01 barrel and not necessarily be the best balance of power against stability.

Haven't got round to specific cylinders and heads yet.

 

[Iceni]

SHS polymer piston is fine, provided it's the full steel rack variant.

https://www.bullseyecountrysport.co.uk/shs-reinforced-piston-19-metal-tooth-poly-carb-sr25-r85-10524-p.asp

Mosfet It depends on you, I like the cheap ones. There is less to go wrong with them. If space becomes an issue you can always get a tiny mosfet like the sparklabs micro fet.
https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/mosfets/sparklabs-microfet

Motors is your pick. I'd opt for frankentorque style like the ASG ultimate 18K.  @Sitting Duck Knows more about what would work here. It's a slow motor but it should be able to pull anything. Wait for the Duck tho, He's done more of this than me.
https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/ultimate-infinity-motor-cnc-u-18000-longsuper-high-torque

Springs go with the RA black line from AK2M4.

M80 = 265fps
M90 = 295fps
M100 = 330fps
M110 = 360fps
M120 = 390fps
M130 = 425fps
M140 = 460fps
M150 = 490fps
M160 = 525fps
M170 = 550fps
M190 = 620fps

I'd probably pick up an M140 and see if it needs to go up or down from there. At £5 each it's easier just to get one and then make a decision.
https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/springs/shs-ra-m140-aeg-black-spring


Piston head and cylinder head I would make a judgement on when you get the gearbox open. If the seal is good and they look solid chances are they will be fine. Same with the air nozzle, Measure and inspect what you have. Then buy one with an O-ring the same length or slightly longer and file it back.

 

[Sitting Duck]

TBH just get something with neodym and you will be fine

(not high speed - you never really want a high speed crazy mofo - too warm/drains battery)

you are gonna drop say a m130 in there so as long as you not got 12:1 gears you will be OK

If you drop a m130 in a full AK47 and SHS HT you will be hitting near 27/28rps

on a 16 tooth sector you will be OK approaching 27.5rps 11.1v

but maybe not on a 19 tooth sector with SHS HT/Balanced 16tpa motor

Then on a 19 tooth get the ZCI 22 tpa to avoid risking it on 11.1v

if ya worried about a SR25 19 tooth mofo - get a zci 22tpa

if you want max snap drop in a 16:1 bevel/spur but use the SR25 sector

DON'T buy the SHS SR25 gear set if you can help it

it has a bearing on it and you can't fit a delayer to retract nozzle back a smidge more

seen some guy on Airsoft Mechanics have a little bit of feed issues with a SHS SR25 set

went back to A&K sector with delay/pipe tube to retract tappet a whisker more - sorted

(be careful though SR25 tappets are like hens teeth to find easily)

now you ain't gonna run it on full auto but just showing the limits n wot not

but will get a friggin' snappy DMR 425fps AK47 say with a 400mm barrel

bit of volume boost for lifting .30's etc...

To lock it to semi - remove the selector plate or part of linkage

keeping the trigger bit to keep safe - which is external mechanics on v3 AK

but chuck a basic mosfet in there with extra titchy micro switch to fire auto if she locks up

That has gotta be the easiest DMR on a budget imho

yeah I hate AK's, but mainly coz I dislike the fire select - but who cares if locked to semi ready to fire

plus there is the unwritten rule that AK DMR's SVD wannabees MUST have the proper Dragonuv scope on it

(oh ffs it's a toy gun chuck on what you like is my opinion & sod the AK rule book)

I mean you knock up a cheap AK DMR and give a tweak/tune to get ya started

then test the water getting ya feet wet and see if DMR/Sniping is for you

Or be bored $hitless missing out on the spray n pray gun ho action

Or in my case very frequent visits to respawn

 

[AshOnSnow]

TBH just get something with neodym and you will be fine

(not high speed - you never really want a high speed crazy mofo - too warm/drains battery)

you are gonna drop say a m130 in there so as long as you not got 12:1 gears you will be OK

If you drop a m130 in a full AK47 and SHS HT you will be hitting near 27/28rps

on a 16 tooth sector you will be OK approaching 27.5rps 11.1v

but maybe not on a 19 tooth sector with SHS HT/Balanced 16tpa motor

Then on a 19 tooth get the ZCI 22 tpa to avoid risking it on 11.1v

if ya worried about a SR25 19 tooth mofo - get a zci 22tpa

if you want max snap drop in a 16:1 bevel/spur but use the SR25 sector

DON'T buy the SHS SR25 gear set if you can help it

it has a bearing on it and you can't fit a delayer to retract nozzle back a smidge more

seen some guy on Airsoft Mechanics have a little bit of feed issues with a SHS SR25 set

went back to A&K sector with delay/pipe tube to retract tappet a whisker more - sorted

(be careful though SR25 tappets are like hens teeth to find easily)

now you ain't gonna run it on full auto but just showing the limits n wot not

but will get a friggin' snappy DMR 425fps AK47 say with a 400mm barrel

bit of volume boost for lifting .30's etc...

To lock it to semi - remove the selector plate or part of linkage

keeping the trigger bit to keep safe - which is external mechanics on v3 AK

but chuck a basic mosfet in there with extra titchy micro switch to fire auto if she locks up

That has gotta be the easiest DMR on a budget imho

yeah I hate AK's, but mainly coz I dislike the fire select - but who cares if locked to semi ready to fire

plus there is the unwritten rule that AK DMR's SVD wannabees MUST have the proper Dragonuv scope on it

(oh ffs it's a toy gun chuck on what you like is my opinion & sod the AK rule book)

I mean you knock up a cheap AK DMR and give a tweak/tune to get ya started

then test the water getting ya feet wet and see if DMR/Sniping is for you

Or be bored $hitless missing out on the spray n pray gun ho action

Or in my case very frequent visits to respawn

(Going for an A&K brand SR25, not a pesky AK, can’t  stand those things. Definitely sticking to the Western Hemisphere ?)

As for optic, I had the rose tinted image of sticking a TA648 but there’s no airsoft version. Might 3D print a TA648 housing for an airsoft 4x ACOG to go into.

I do love sniping and I usually end up falling into a marksman role with my AEG as well - I play with my VSR a lot but the tough bolt pull is wreaking havoc on my wrist. DMR has been in the pipeline for a while now, never got round to getting started building it.

 

[Sitting Duck]

Fair do's then - just pointing out it is not for everybody

yup A&K is the one, G&G use a reg box or a 16 tooth sector in a bigger box for JG ???

WTF - enormous cylinder head on JG taking up the slack plus reg cylinder/sector

(rebadged as GunFire's GFC SR-25 - avoid, A&K or CA are your options)

not sore about CA or Classic Army - I heard they revised their sr25 a bit

but sr25 tappets are like hen's teeth

I'd go for A&K too tbh

The A&K should come with a strong enough motor - sure it is neodym

only said about the AK coz it is an easy dmr project like the selector mod

not a fan of them myself, but easy project to test the water with

 

[AshOnSnow]

Fair do's then - just pointing out it is not for everybody

yup A&K is the one, G&G use a reg box or a 16 tooth sector in a bigger box for JG ???

WTF - enormous cylinder head on JG taking up the slack plus reg cylinder/sector

(rebadged as GunFire's GFC SR-25 - avoid, A&K or CA are your options)

not sore about CA or Classic Army - I heard they revised their sr25 a bit

but sr25 tappets are like hen's teeth

I'd go for A&K too tbh

The A&K should come with a strong enough motor - sure it is neodym

only said about the AK coz it is an easy dmr project like the selector mod

not a fan of them myself, but easy project to test the water with

Also helps that all the sites I play at allow DMR up to 500fps, so there’s more advantage to having one as opposed to sites that only allow say 400.

Okay then, TaiwanGun sell an A&K SR25 base for £200 which looks like a great place to start.

It has the extended V2 gearbox, so off the top of my head I will need to install

- MOSFET and deans connectors

- new Hop chamber and bucking

- inner barrel

- gears

- piston

- tappet plate

- cylinder

- cylinder head

- spring

- motor (+ better pinion)

Also need to source a pistol grip, buffer tube and stock.

What did you mean by bevel/spur?

Also, would a new trigger system be worthwhile installing?

 

[Sitting Duck]

....snip.....

It has the extended V2 gearbox, so off the top of my head I will need to install

- MOSFET and deans connectors

- new Hop chamber and bucking

- inner barrel

- gears - well maybe a SHS 16:1 bevel/spur but not absolute must

- piston - yeah a steel rack is wise, there are a few SHS 19 tooths

you still want a poly/plastic piston than alloy one

old yellow, newer blue type or Pete seems to offer a white piston will metal rack

- tappet plate - nope, but look out for a spare one is my advice

- cylinder - should be a full cylinder anyway, test compression and replace only if needed

- cylinder head - yeah probably, can get a long spout one as nozzle is longer than M4

- spring - need to check your site very carefully most sites for DMR's are 425 - maybe 450fps

Bolt action they allow 500fps but not DMR's

Remember just coz your site allows XXXfps other sites may say f**k off

- motor (+ better pinion) - all depends how it performs and works out of box

and how the A&K pinion meshes with std bevel or SHS bevel

Change of pinion - well I "think" the std A&K neodym has a D type bevel but do not quote me

Other similar looking motor like the JG blue - looks very similar has an O type pinion

Plus stuff can change blah blah blah....

I'd do the old "wait n see" on motors n stuff tbh

Piston head - what ever gives good compression

(what type/make is a long discussion in itself, silent/mushroom, metal for weight/mass)

The piston complete assembly should be heavier than reg AEG's (20gms aprox)

You should aim for something like min 25gms to say 30gms as greater mass is more efficient in compression

(so some people say in numerous tests on snipers/dmr's)

sorbo topped with neoprene - if you want your bespoke box to last

radius the box up front with round craft file

nozzle - should be "about" 24.7mm - a 24.5mm G36 might be too short

Some use an AUG nozzle - think it will be a case of looking to buy a couple and compare closely before testing

Hop/barrel - stuff can be sorted later

You have the issue of locking it to semi only - selector plate mod or fancy mosfet

You decide what way you approach this - it will still fire on auto out of box

So you need to factor in how to lock it

a small additional switch hidden in stock to fire full auto is optional if it locks up in dead zone

(unlikely but will save you agro if it happens on field)

Pistol grip changes I never alter unless it is $hit

often some after market grips can throw the motor angle out more than std grip

especially cheapo magpul cones etc... - if it works then I tend to stick with std grip if angle OK-ish

A full size fixed stock on a DMR - the proper hollow one is nice

chuck a car battery in there, loads of room for mars bar lunch and any size mosfet etc....

make sure you get the plastic ring though....

THAT can be a bastid to source or make up as "some" full/stubby stocks don't all come with it

included above....

NOT INCLUDED in the above stubby stock

been caught out myself buying stubby stocks - bastids

Avoid an ICS full size stock coz the bolt is shorter as ICS screw into an adapter and inch before spring guide

plus isn't as hollow as other full size stocks

avoid the adjustable one too as the battery doesn't quite just plop in...

http://www.taiwangun.com/en/stocks-and-accesories/adjustable-fixed-stock-for-sr-25-ar-15-m4-black-cyma

if you look at all the pictures - yeah it is a bit of a wank to put the battery in and small space

compared to the suitcase a cheapo full fixed stock offers

Yeah fixed stocks - you can get stung buying certain ones I found

TBH - you don't need to do a great deal - just some basic tweaking & common sense

stuff that won't cost a lot at all, no urgent need to replace motor if a screw driver sticks to grip

(neodym A&K motor it should be) - you will run it on 11.1v

The 16:1 gears - you drop the std 16 tooth sector in the 16:1 set and use the A&K 19 tooth sector

but only if you are sad or pinion meshing is $hit etc....

Just was warning ya about the SHS sr-25 set bearing sector & you will be on 18.65:1 gears

so perhaps avoid the urge to buy a shs sr-25 set at any point

if gears blow up and sector is ok then replace with 16:1 bevel spur but is only 17.25:1 so very little extra

you can't drop in 13:1's coz they don't afik make a 19 tooth 13:1 sector - just regular 18/16:1 19t sectors

But yeah the gears are not a must at all - just tweaking gearing - the 16:1 set like a shs dsg is all you can use

and as fast as you can go for snap - 16:1 or stick with 18:1 -not much in it tbh, but if bevel busts

well a 16:1 set is about your only real go fast/snappier option blah blah blah but no biggy blah x 3

You don't need to go nutz inside the box is what I meaning

trigger - well tbh messing about with triggers and reduced pull is a time consuming wank tbh

see if you can take up some slack maybe but I'd avoid buying speed triggers that often slip off trolley

and then need more f**king about getting them to work

tbh I actually like the std ergonomic trigger than the poseur flat trigger - just feels more ergonomic to me

but don't waste too much time on it - learn to pull the trigger quicker is the easiest option

War & Peace novel again.....

yeah avoid going too nutz is my advice

 

[AshOnSnow]

@Sitting Duck

I wonder, what would I need to run a 14.8V 70C LiPo with a Gate Titan MOSFET?

[cue evil laugh]

does the 2.5 gearbox have the same trigger housing as a v2?

Also, any recommendations on an aftermarket cylinder and/or cylinder head?

DMR is certainly a money pit - my bits list is already up to £725. Eek!

But not much left to replace as far as I see, so the final build will hopefully rest in the £700-800 mark. Still a hefty sum for a toy gun!

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