7.4 lipo v's standard

Dannn

Dannn

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Just hooked up a 7.4 lipo yo my jg g36c and it doesn't seem to make any difference over the standard battery's !?

Quite strange !

Edit... They are 2000 45c too

 
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I was under the impression is get a slightly greater rate of fire...

 
Well that's cleared that up lol... 11 v it is then !

 
It'll give you a faster trigger response and greater capacity for the size, but unless you get an 11.1v its not going to up the rof noticeably.

Do not use an 11.1v without upgrading the gearbox first! Without certain changes that gearbox's life will be short and noisy.

 
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Im upgrading pretty much everything inside when I get paid at the end of the month so it's ok it the gear box blows up anyway ?

 
For example if the connectors are bad, it doesn't really matter if you put a lipo in it. There can be some bottlenecks in the system.

 
9.9v life is the modern bridge between 7.4v & 11.1v lipo

but think life's are great for stock & mild tweak guns

but don't have the raw grunt a 25/30c lipo has on a beefed gun

depends on battery space available get a decent capacity 7.4v than a moderate 11.1v

get the internals sorted and she will fire like f*ck with lipo's supplying as much juice as she can want

in a nutshell it is mainly about decent wire/mosfet/deans and then making bevel turn quick & snappy

 
Samurai said:
For example if the connectors are bad, it doesn't really matter if you put a lipo in it. There can be some bottlenecks in the system.
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deans must be done - that is main bottleneck - then thicker wire & ensure motor contacts are good and extra solder on the connector "bends"

(g36 probably doesn't have the connectors bent over like on M4 V2 box/motor - they are probably straight connection to motor)

heck if you are really power crazy you could solder thicker wires to neodym motor for ultimate connection but only if your a freak like me

 
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Actually since it's pretty new I might stick with the 7.4 till I upgrade so I've got spares I can sell/ give away Everything apart from the battery will be hard wired as I'm a bit perdantic ?

 
Actually since it's pretty new I might stick with the 7.4 till I upgrade so I've got spares I can sell/ give away Everything apart from the battery will be hard wired as I'm a bit perdantic ?

Plus it's gonna be running at max capacity at the time so like asda or Tesco or who ever says "every little helps "

If 11.1 v isn't enough I could always get an extra single cell lipo wired in just for shits and giggles haha

 
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How fast do you wanna go - really

and how far do you wanna go - really

as its a v3 you can break into 20rps easily with nearly all stock internal box

then just rewire, fet, deans etc... on stock gears - fir shs or other beefy neodym motor

test it all out if she is good with motor connectors, then cut n solder for extra boost

wire in fet etc with dedicated wires motor to battery - neg to fet to battery

then the positive switch wires on their own thinner wiring.

All this equals next to no join or resistance points for max power flow to motor

(often speed freaks will forgo any fuse but only if you have common sense and know your gun)

inside the box just cheap service like AOE, new piston ring, o-ring nozzle, ptfe tape on head

or new cylinder head if you wish and bearing spring guide perhaps

You do not need to replace everything inside box - std piston & gears will be fine for a decent upgrade

More higher rof will require more work and crap out quicker with more additional problems

eg: Pre Engagement, double cycle/firing, feeding problems at higher speeds etc etc etc.......

for easier life and less stress stick to a reasonable upgrade - service the box & rewire with fet

then drop in a decent neodym motor - that is where you should spend £30 on

inside the box maybe £20 or so but no more than £25-£30 really

then spend about £20 for basic £10 fet, decent wire & some deans etc....

Not a massive amount but with motor, service box and mosfet it is about £70 still

people buy loads of bits n bobs - hi speed gears and lonex steel pistons n heads etc...

but as long as seals are good stock stuff is fine for most people

sure if you are shortstroking you want more steel teeth to remove

But you don't need to go nutz inside the box either

get the aoe and seals done, shim it as best as you possibly can

grease it where needed, nozzle n spring guide - box done

fit the mosfet if possible if funds allow - leave motor until next month

gun is sorted and motor drop in as n when you got the dosh

keep her 20 to 25rps or you will have more stuff to do

The most you should spend is time

 
Cheers mate, I've a long list of stuff costing almost £300 from lonex.... I might forgo it and look at doing what you suggest ?

 
Or use my 36v off my makita hammer drill ?

 
He could borrow the battery that powers the strip mining diggers in Germany

The power station itself :)

 
You could just drop in a mental quick motor - SHS speed or torque

go from say 13 to say 18rps - wow this good on 7.4v

lets try 11.1v - christ that is nearly 27rps - woo hoo

Yeah it didn't last when I first did that - the initial pick up tooth on piston just snapped off

Aaaaahhhh I think I should done AoE after the second piston just snapped off

you can get a gun to near 20 or just over 20 with a mental motor

but that includes the wires, fet, deans which must be done

at that speed if you want a little more a LiFe battery will bridge the gap a bit between 7 & 11 lipo's

but on using thicker wire and beefier motors the difference seems to drop

Going past 25 other problems may/will arise - deffo 30rps will start to risk PE without more work

a stock box running well AoE seals shimmed fet etc... will be fine to take a beefy motor and a good boost over 13rps

this will last longer than a crazy 30rps+ gun, so a sensible 20 - 25 can be achieved on nigh on stock stuff

most of the time 20 - 21 but on the ak12 I hit 24.8rps on 30c 7.4v but mega thick wires used and soldered direct to motor

not a real option on a v2 box but v3's with motor frame/cage you can remove cage from box and work on shredded piston or gear shimming

plus v3 wiring is external so you don't have to file out a box to get much thicker in there like on some v2 boxesso

see about some decent wire that you can route through the gun going for 16awg or silver wire to unleash battery hell when you pull triggerw

hoa - that was yet another ultra quick note - soz

just check your 7.4v speed first before dropping in a 11.1v

 
Really - is that all stock or with another beefy neodym motor in there ???

no way would a stock gun be hitting that on 7.4v

either that or I'm doing everything wrong or buying the wrong guns

Android BPS Meter is quite accurate as long as gun "sounds" properly and has barrel etc all assembled

(gets weird results just testing bare box dry firing on just the nozzle)

Can't believe a stock JG G36c is hitting that on 7.4v - 13 yeah on 7.4v or 20 on 11.1v/shs motor/12:1 gears

something is giving that mofo a 50% boost on 7.4v

even then small tamiya would be choking it a bit

either something ain't quite as I'm lead to think or that app is way out

 
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