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Don't forget to Loctite the piston head screw.

There will be some preload on the installed spring, but it will vary. Basically a properly volumed set up will recover about 80% of the energy stored in the spring and convert it to kinetic energy in the BB.

White lithium grease dries up and gums things up after a while. Superlube is very slippery, a little goes a long way and it's safe and suitable for all parts of the gearbox including the piston /cylinder.

There are Airsoft ones available, but this one is all my own work and 3d printed. Uses a SHS hop up with a R hop (cos it was lying around) and MP5K magazines on a cheap junior compound bow. Few more bits to do yet, but it's getting there.

It's nearly finished, but what load out?

As far as I could find out, it uses pretty much a standard piston /cylinder/gearset? As long as the spring doesn't go coil bound then adding pre load shouldn't be a problem. You'd just be reducing the installed length down to the same as a V2 etc.

M90 should get you about 1J. But if the fitted length is greater than a standard V2 /3 etc. Then you'll either need to add preload, or try stronger springs.

Sounds like the mag isn't high enough in the mag well for the bottom of the hop unit to release the catch on the mag holding the BBs in. Try super gluing a thin piece of plastic to the top of the mag catch to lift the mags a fraction higher in the well.

PM me.

A system will tend to be more efficient in one configuration than another. In this case it is quite possible to build a gun that is very efficient with heavier BBs, and less so with lighter BBs. The outcome is that if you tune the gun to just get inside the chrono with light (0.2g) BBs, when you...

How about I print you a couple. Say a fiver plus the postage? Or if you can get them printed I'll just send you the stl file. I know they work because I designed them to do exactly what you're doing on exactly that receiver set.

These are the 3d printed parts to fit a stock onto the CRW receiver. The receiver will need to be drilled and tapped M3 so this can bolt on.

The combination of the slightly collapsed rear of the piston and the terrible angle of engagement means the sector gear pick up tooth is completely missing the piston, and is actually passing behind the piston pick up tooth. If you're using the stock M120 motor on 11.1v and stock gearing...

On a gas gun the receiver will be solid where the grip fits. On an AEG the grip fits on the gearbox so the receiver is clear so the bottom of the gearbox protrudes through.

The TR16 is an M4 pistol, so it doesn't have any way to attach a stock. Although it's an electric gun, it'll also need the end plug to fit the gearbox. I do have a model of a component you can get 3D printed that allows a stock to fit, but it needs to be drilled and tapped onto the receiver.

If it looks like the one in the lower pic, then you've bought an upper and lower receiver for a gas rifle, not an AEG. Pics of what you have would help.

Depends on the battery....but I keep coming back to the ASG 30k for most builds too, although the 22k on 11.1v and 13:1 gears with a 9 tooth bevel is nice for rapid semi auto with heavier springs.

If you're only using semi auto then the 16TPA will get a bit warm and stress the battery. Really nice combination with 13:1 gears on 7.4v for a full auto/occasional semi gun though. 22TPA is your best choice. Lower start up current so less battery stress with rapid semi auto use.

Cheaper G&G Combat Machines come with a very average quality aluminium tube inner barrel.

If it's a fairly simple part that won't take too long them I'm happy to model it ready for printing.