I went from 263mm to 407mm covering excess with a 190mm suppressor. Just under 150mm extension. Can you see this posing any problems? Most have said it will be OK.
Also, I thought that a split gearbox (I.e. no parts to spring out) would have something unique that needs doing before opening up. I've had problems with it firing twice and fully auto in semi, so maybe this is what caused the gears to be out of place as it was definitely on safe, and is always left on safe.
On top of that, my trigger now clicks in semi as if its catching on the "safe" mechanism. I can see it physically catching with minimal pressure, then with the slightest but more pressure it jumps over the piece of metal it is catching on.
Anyways, I digress... Thanks for all of your comments community! Admins, apologies if this should be taken onto a new thread with it now been off topic.
263 to 407 is a fair jump - 263 to 307 no problem but longer barrel will require more air volume - even on a tbb
the port on cylinder should be further back to increase air volume - my gut feeling is that it may be under volumed
but only way is to suck it n see when it shoots - this is figure of speech btw - don't shoot your mouth off
firing twice - double firing - misfeeding and other crap are slightly different problems
if the gun is cycling twice then either there is a lot of juice flowing to it like 11.1v
or gun's cut off lever is not operating correctly - or other problems around that area
What really needs to happen is a 6ft bold warning to owners not to force the gun's trigger in semi at any point !!!
There is a point where going from auto to semi the cut off lever can still be partially raised and the way most aeg's are
the trigger switch trolley won't slip into position correctly coz lever is slightly raised
the lever slips under trolley so it can lift and disengage on semi but it can't sometimes if can came to rest in this "dead zone"
Normally just flick to auto - fire a quick burst and then it should operate in semi just dandy as it should
other times it is owner releasing trigger smidge too early, the gun doesn't park correctly but stops short of its full cycle in dead zone
flick to auto and don't release trigger so early on semi next time - trigger discipline etc.....
If people force the trigger in this dead zone - $hit will break or wear very quickly....
the switch itself is plastic and it has ridges where the metal trigger system latches onto it, switch lifts up on semi
flies back and releasing trigger will then re-latch onto it to fire again...
Forcing it will wear away the small little 1.5mm to 2mm ridge at most very quickly or round the edges off
and eventually trolley at least will need replacing
SO DON'T F*CKING FORCE TRIGGER - not aimed at you but this is for all people who think give it a wallop will fix it - it WON'T
As to your problem on it jumping - try the auto a few times and see if the gun works on semi...
hopefully it was stuck on dead zone - also you have forward assist button but tbh this probably won't roll back the gun
as spring shouldn't be compressed in dead zone - so the flick to auto - quick burst and try semi again
if still borked, then afraid the trigger switch, cut off lever or selector plate may not be operating correctly and will need investigating
which will involve gearbox - lower gearbox removal and strip down.....
Strongly suggest if this is the case - fire support as they walk on water for ICS
they can quickly fix the problem and probably at same time drop in a cylinder ported for the longer barrel at same time
once sorted - all owners in particular new owners please learn not to force triggers stuck in dead zone and at first sign
think and refire the gun before giving it extra force thinking that will sort it - it just wears or breaks the gun's trigger quicker
