Beginner!
- Thread starter mao2
- Start date
Generally you can only get in trouble if you gun is firing above the FPS it had when it was tested at the start of an event day, this normally can only because 'someone' has tampered with it in the intervening time.
Generally FPS is not recorded at test time beyond "that gun was below X". Some sites do however have limits dead on 328 or 340, it is not always 350 for an automatic gun.
If you avoided the chronograph, or missed it, it is your responsibility to ensure you are chrono'd. Do not miss it.
Generally FPS is not recorded at test time beyond "that gun was below X". Some sites do however have limits dead on 328 or 340, it is not always 350 for an automatic gun.
If you avoided the chronograph, or missed it, it is your responsibility to ensure you are chrono'd. Do not miss it.
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- Jun 28, 2015
- 4,291
- 1,230
Chronometers are made by different companies and so your own chrono at home may differ from the one at site A, and that differs to site B. The one used by the site you are going to play on is the one that counts, it is their upper safety limit, so fps not to be exceeded. If you are slightly over, then you get a chance to tweek the gun yourself (it is your responsibility to meets their requirements). That is why turning up early enough at the site helps by getting through chrono early. Any hot gun should not be allowed to play, although you may have option to hire one of theirs.
Short answer: when buying a RIF in UK you can ask for a lower powered spring to bring down FPS, or ensure it is below a certain FPS limit. See the recent thread in Electric Guns about 'Retailer FPS Downgrades'
That is why I like TM guns, low fps out of the box and no need to change springs.
Short answer: when buying a RIF in UK you can ask for a lower powered spring to bring down FPS, or ensure it is below a certain FPS limit. See the recent thread in Electric Guns about 'Retailer FPS Downgrades'
That is why I like TM guns, low fps out of the box and no need to change springs.
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- Thread starter
- #44
Right, are downgrades normally available through shops? Is it generally done free or more of an add on? Is it safer to go with a lower FPS? Such as 300 or do you ask them to set it to about 350 and hold your breath? My local site has a 350 limit zfor any automatic weapon
Am I able to purchase a rif without ukara from FireSupport? Or will they check defence?
Am I able to purchase a rif without ukara from FireSupport? Or will they check defence?
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djben9
Moderator
- Jul 7, 2015
- 2,371
- 308
I wouldn't worry so much, ok i did!, do your 3 games and get your number, saves the 2 tone method for the sake of a few weeks wait
Where are you based, can you get to Peterborough easily and pop in the store?
I popped in and changed my choice, was told the cxp-uk1 was about 325 ish out of the box so fine. It was firing between 315 - 321 on Saturday so I guess about right. Will be a good idea to see and handle others
And fire support handle UKARA for our area I believe, I got my number less than 24 hours after submitting it
Where are you based, can you get to Peterborough easily and pop in the store?
I popped in and changed my choice, was told the cxp-uk1 was about 325 ish out of the box so fine. It was firing between 315 - 321 on Saturday so I guess about right. Will be a good idea to see and handle others
And fire support handle UKARA for our area I believe, I got my number less than 24 hours after submitting it
djben9
Moderator
- Jul 7, 2015
- 2,371
- 308
Yeah, 0.2s, I have a few thousand though to use up first. So will set up for them. Tbh, at urban, it's close range most of the time so the weight I doubt has any affect?, more experienced players can help out more with that though
I will try 0.25s at a later date.
Take your time with your choice unless you have an idea, I wanted a standard M4 but got the one you saw.
Good to go into the shop or another, just to have a feel and see them in the flesh
Where you based anyway, combat Thetford is about 40mins, isn't it also a paintball site?
I will try 0.25s at a later date.
Take your time with your choice unless you have an idea, I wanted a standard M4 but got the one you saw.
Good to go into the shop or another, just to have a feel and see them in the flesh
Where you based anyway, combat Thetford is about 40mins, isn't it also a paintball site?
- Oct 20, 2012
- 5,113
- 1,695
Some urban/CQB sites enforce the use of only lighter BBs because of Joule creep. The heavier weights also preserve energy whilst in flight better than lighter ones (I believe this was mentioned earlier in the thread) and that's primarily why you really want to be using .25s as they're the near-perfect balance between how quickly your BB is going to reach its target (essentially making it easier to 'lead' when people are moving) and their superior energy conservation when compared to .20s (so it drops off much later).
I've been trying .30s recently and they're slow in the air, but in theory they should go on and on.
Problem is, a lot of people mistake heavier BBs for people cheating. I've seen this happen a few times as being hit with a 0.20 BB at 20m will be a lot less felt than being hit with a 0.30 BB at 20m despite the fact that they were both crono'd on .20 at 350fps at the start of the day.*
*I should say though that crono-ing GBBRs and HPA systems with .20 is one of the silliest things sites do because it leaves them wide open to Joule creep. Maybe a topic for another time.
tl;dr: 0.25s should really be used as a baseline standard for the majority of players, but some people like .20s because they get to the target quicker and are a little cheaper (even if they don't go as far).
I've been trying .30s recently and they're slow in the air, but in theory they should go on and on.
Problem is, a lot of people mistake heavier BBs for people cheating. I've seen this happen a few times as being hit with a 0.20 BB at 20m will be a lot less felt than being hit with a 0.30 BB at 20m despite the fact that they were both crono'd on .20 at 350fps at the start of the day.*
*I should say though that crono-ing GBBRs and HPA systems with .20 is one of the silliest things sites do because it leaves them wide open to Joule creep. Maybe a topic for another time.
tl;dr: 0.25s should really be used as a baseline standard for the majority of players, but some people like .20s because they get to the target quicker and are a little cheaper (even if they don't go as far).
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TacMaster
Members
- Dec 3, 2012
- 1,888
- 848
Doesn't really need maintenance like a GBBR, however with more moving parts there's more to go wrong. Not worth getting anything EBB unless it's a TM Recoil.
ImTriggerHappy
Supporters
- Feb 25, 2015
- 5,374
- 2,228
The ebb doesnt need any extra maintenance.Its not a recoil system like the Tm its just a bit that goes backwards and forwards and makes a bit of a pathetic noise. Basically its a pointless gimmick that I would disable to be honest.
The gun itself is very solid however and not a bad buy but there are others that I would probably pick over it in that price range if it was my money.
At the end of the day its a solid and reliable gun that has good range and accuracy so if its the one you like it wont disappoint.
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- Thread starter
- #58
TacMaster
I take it you mean 'buy' a normal AEG? Just to clarify.
I look at all these difference guns, a lot of the guns I see look great externally. But when it comes to internal stuff I am absolutely lost. I've tried finding written reviews but find it difficult. It's easier to find YouTube reviews but have heard not to trust as some are sponsored.
All I want is a solid gun in mostly metal , that will function and perform without any major internal upgrades, it needs to be able to shoot no more than 350fps. I know G&g and ICS are decent makes... But there are so many to choose from? How can someone like myself with very limited experience know what to look for
What would you choose!? Presumably most people will choose m4 as it's been said to be easier to upgrade internally.
I take it you mean 'buy' a normal AEG? Just to clarify.
I look at all these difference guns, a lot of the guns I see look great externally. But when it comes to internal stuff I am absolutely lost. I've tried finding written reviews but find it difficult. It's easier to find YouTube reviews but have heard not to trust as some are sponsored.
All I want is a solid gun in mostly metal , that will function and perform without any major internal upgrades, it needs to be able to shoot no more than 350fps. I know G&g and ICS are decent makes... But there are so many to choose from? How can someone like myself with very limited experience know what to look for
What would you choose!? Presumably most people will choose m4 as it's been said to be easier to upgrade internally.
ImTriggerHappy
Supporters
- Feb 25, 2015
- 5,374
- 2,228
If you have £300 and want an M4 this is your best choice;
http://www.patrolbase.co.uk/airsoft/krytac-trident-crb-black.htm#.VjYjpC8Ybfs
