Right then so far it is it would appear, anyone got any good cheap ones off the top of your heads?
Also I only have a pdi 170% spring which seems lighter than a m130 spring but similar performance. Will I still need such a beefy motor?
Just noticed you got ICS which means you can change spring without opening box up completely.......
Many think say sniping sounds great but in actual fact a lot of people decide it is not really for them,
They become bored hanging back, overwatching and having to switch to secondary/retreat back as enemy closes in inside their MED
That in mind I would reckon you should decide if it is gonna be for you or just think it sounds good
Hence talk to others & maybe start games supporting or close to these guys - see how they play and see if you can see yourself
If enemy starts to close in below MED - then it is down to you to assist to prevent your DM guys being overun....
If you decide you still wanna go down that route - you need to lock your gun to semi....
One consideration is perhaps the "proper" burst wizard fet that can be programmed to fire only one shot in full auto
and should be ok for most sites - some sites can be picky on what classifies as DMR rather than a tarted up M4.
The Kong II is a proper 3034 burst fet but can be plugged in - not the proper instal but could fit this as temporary measure
So you could fir a stronger spring - lock to semi with burst - Kong is proper, the avacado is not a proper 3034 fet
Then try the DMR role and see how you go first....
If you think - hmm maybe or maybe not you haven't altered your gun too much....
Your ICS infinate or turbo should pull a higher spring ok for moment, many warmer imported guns shoot 400fps on much lower stock motors
So you should be fine to test out a DMR role for a skirmish or two with say 9.6v nimah or 7.4v lipo's
If after this testing of the water you wish to proceed then you can hardwire the Kong II in there, service box & seals aoe etc......
rewire deans blah blah blah - then that will improve the response and you will notice the difference even on stock motor
Safely use 11.1v batteries and not need the torque motor just yet - it can be done later if needed
Takes 5 mins to swap over motor - but coz you had the rewire and Kong hard wired properly in - all the donkey work is done already.
So if you are thinking of going down the DMR route - I would at very least chat & support any DM players first, offer support and
try to get a feel for that role to see if you think you will see yourself shooting less and not going nutz assaulting with regular aeg players
You can then do it in stages for a short brief while but easy on the juice until a fet is properly wired in before you go nutz on 11.1v
Plugging in a fet - even the Kong type does NOT offer any trigger contact protection until it is wired in properly
Well that is my take on it - many "think" DMR but reckon you should test the water first before you commit to any real upgrades
(though apart from quick spring change - the upgrades wouldn't be a waste but perhaps not an absolute must gotta spend out for normal aeg)
Kong was only one type - you could install a super duper Merf 3.2 for a little bit more, but is an Active Braking fet and AB's can
put a little more on motor as they brake the motor by reversing polarity. Some only use AB if they really need it
I am pretty sure the Kong II is not AB but offers standard non-AB 3034 with bells n whistles but there may be others
Merf 3.2 is AB and the AB can not be disabled - but a burst/programme fet is perhaps an easy way to lock it to semi for DMR
(Again - speak to some DMR players and see what they run with and your site's guidelines also)