CYMA CM.515 M4A1 Carbine

[EDcase]

Yeah, I know what you mean.  I never watch 'unboxing' vids.  WTF is the point of that...!?!?!

Just want to see factual videos addressing the questions we all have.

There are some good videos out there of course but they focus on the more expensive weapons...

 

[Sitting Duck]

Simply put - Cyma is best under £100 M4 out there

(or one of the best)

heck how about £60 for one:

https://gunfire.pl/product-eng-1152216180-SRT-28-Assault-Rifle-Replica-Tan.html

That is half the price of a G&G & you don't get battery for shelling out £120 or so

Nuprol - seems good but the microswitch should have a mosfet

ASG think comes with mosfet & stuff looked decent - tried to buy one but my UKARA has expired

Classic Army seem to have upped their game though, 9mm bushings, rotary hop, QD spring, mosfet

https://swasairsoft.co.uk/airsoft-guns/classic-army-m4-12-mlock-rail-black-aeg-2

ooooh now this looks a real possible G&G beater all at that silly price

here is what might be inside btw....

under £100 - probably around the £85 mark - Cyma if funds are tight

once you get over that most likely G&G but the new Classic Army is looking like it has raised the bar now

I like the insides - looks like it would need very little tweaking at all tbh

Though G&G receivers & their bucking are second to none

End of the day - any one will do ya proud

it is not so much the gun but the player who kicks ar$e

(or gets his ar$e kicked by that 12 year old kid with that JBBG special plinker in my case)

 

[commanderpegasus420]

I have the cm.513.

Not sure if its the same as the cm.515 internally but if you just want a  cheap basic gun cyma is your best bet.

But dont expect it to be the greatest gun ever.

its plastic and not worth investing too much money into

 

[Rogerborg]

its plastic and not worth investing too much money into

How so?

Mine is shooting at a very consistent ~330fps.  I could squeeze it closer to 350 with a cheap spring change (I've already radiused the gearbox for £0 cost).

If I wanted a fancy hop-up unit and a tightbore barrel, why would I first spend more to get a heavier gun then put the very same hop-up and barrel in it?  Would the BB know to be more accurate because there's a metal body wrapped around the blowgun?

OK, if I wanted some obscene ROF I wouldn't get it out of the CYMA motor and gearbox, but I don't.

I'm really not sure where the idea is coming from that it's not worth replacing the internals (the bits that matter) inside a cheap shell.  It's not like upgrading a more expensive shell is an investment, you're likely to lose even more money in absolute terms when you try to sell it on.

Convince me, why shouldn't I replace (e.g.) the barrel and hop in my CYMA?

 

[Prisce]

I don’t think that’s the consensus around upgrading cheaper guns as a base @Rogerborg, I think the reason the guys say don’t put to much into a cheap shell is with a slightly more expensive gun you won’t have to replace EVERYTHING to get the gun working it’s best. 

For example, the JG cylinder is very good and doesn’t need replacing for something more expensive to get the best results. 

Its like everything, you can put a Subaru engine in a classic beetle. It’s still a classic beetle, just goes like stink. 

Its a cost saving exercise in the end, if you want to spend fortunes on upgrading a base gun, no one will stop you, but if you try upgrading a high end gun( TM recoil for example) You won’t have to spend much to get it excellent.(if anything)

 

[Nicky blue eyes]

See my train of thouht is that I don't  mind spending a tenner here or there on some bits to make it  more consistent or slightly better. I can't really justify (for the amount of time I play) spending alot on a new gun that is all bells and whistles. As I said before out the box the cyma can get you out on the field and playing. Which at the end of the day is what its all about. If you can aford better by all means go for it, but as it is you can still have a lot of fun and get started in the sport with out breaking the bank. Player attitude also has a lot to do with it. Your gun may cost you £300 pound but if you have the wrong kind of mind set your not going to get any more pleasure out of airsoft than you are going to work or doing chores around the house.

 

[Rogerborg]

you won’t have to replace EVERYTHING to get the gun working it’s best.

I rather suspect that it depends on the definition of "best", and that at some point we'd end up throwing away money chasing imaginary benefits even if we start with a TM.

Unless I convince myself that each and every stock part is already at least as good as any possible aftermarket alternative, why wouldn't I end up replacing all of them in pursuit of ultimate bestness?

However, if we walk it back to define "best" as our subjective definition of "good enough", then for my purposes I can't see why I'd need to change more than the barrel and hop, since I already have the consistent puff that I want.

 

[Sitting Duck]

I try to advise people not to go nutz on upgrades for various reasons.....

I also try to put stuff in an easy to understand context:

The first car example works quite well pimping out a pile of $hite 2002 Punto

(anybody who is say 25+ will/should fully get what I mean)

First of all if you can afford a Krytac then in most cases buy a bloody Krytac !!!

There is NO REAL POINT in buying a £150 gun and spending £150 on it in most cases

MOST CASES = if you are not going to do the work YOURSELF AND are very good/competent then forget it

If you get somebody to do loads of upgrades (most may not be really needed) it will cost extra

If they are going to pay a decent amount of time & detail into getting the very best out of it - IT WILL COST !!!!

I could go on & on & on & on (and I have many times...)

but in the end the term " if it ain't broke - don't try to fix it " covers a LOT of what I could mention

in many cases WAIT until it needs attention and then decide how to overcome a problem

(rather than create more problems that don't really exist)

As for Cyma barrel/hop/bucking - leave it as is if all working fine

the barrel is pretty decent - the hop ok

if it starts going a bit crap then you might consider a G&G green bucking but only if old one is torn or crap

Accuracy/range is mainly down to:

ROUGHLY PUT BTW....

50% bucking/nub

25% x 2 barrel & hop unit effectiveness or compatibility

(not getting real actual percentages here coz it will vary in many builds for a start but a rough ball-park basis)

The bucking/nub is where the backspin/magnus is created - without this you got jack squat

yes how everything works translates also into range/accuracy but I'm trying to roughly indicate what is what

You will not see a $hit review of G&G bucking - "worst bucking ever... lost 25m" etc....

unless real bad luck compatibility or most likely just poor fitting by user

BUT that does not mean yet again everybody rush out and buy a G&G bucking if gun is ok as is

(remember the "if it ain't broke......." recommendation)

what I mean is like many things - WAIT until it goes pear shape - THEN maybe replace stuff with good/better stuff

Ahhhh - I'm waffling again, do what like, it is your gun I suppose

 

[Nicky blue eyes]

I'm going to try and take my beasty apart in the next few days  to try and fit a new air nozzle....pray for Nick :wacko:

 

[jabber316]

Hi guys just to jump in on this topic has anybody got a spare fire selector plate from the cm.513 for sale as they seem to be thinner and not as long as the ones I can find little burgers are hard to find cheers....

 

[Reevy]

Had my first game with this gun, had the gun for a while now, never had any issues with it, no jamming or anything, battery lasted me a full day of Airsoft too.

I have a friend that goes regularly that has taught me how to look after the gun and simple maintenance and so far, it’s going well, just as good as when I first purchased it.