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G&G cm16 srl battery issues

no problem - nice guns but a shame some ETu's can be a bit picky

you probably read this similar post:

http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/29958-new-member-g-g-cm16-predator-firing-issue/

the 11.1v battery at componentshop seems to fit and work ok for the OP

I know the GOS v3 type stock like most G&G stocks isn't the most roomy but the 11.1v @ componentshop seems to fit in ok

I sold the stock, fitted stubby and when the ETU died from me using a very beefy neodym motor on 11.1v 25c+ lipo

the unit died so ripped it out and went back to normal trigger system - a pain but I do like my FFR A2

well worth trying a thin 11.1v - nice guns, that is one thing G&G do very well loads of models to choose from

alas electronics and mosfets have never been G&G's strong point - pity coz I hope they improve their nice looking guns

best of luck - fingers crossed the 11.1v fits ok and your SR behaves itself so you can enjoy it more

 
Hey guys I got a CM16 SRXL from evike.com and got the same problems as most guys in here. :(

JD8825 said:
Thank you everyone for your advice. I think it is a battery issue. As after testing the 9.6v it works great. So I think it was the issue.
Click to expand...
I tried 3 9.6V NimH's and not even one works reliable (if I pull the trigger too often in short amount of time in semi mode it stops)

2 batteries are from VB Power: http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/2613-vb-power-9_6v-nimh-butterfly-nunchuck-battery-for-aeg-1600-mah.aspx
1 is from Vapex: http://www.vapextech.co.uk/batteries/airsoft-batteries/9-6v-packs/8vp1600afp-l4l4-tm1/

All of them where fully charged before trying it out.

JD8825 which 9.6V are u using?

Video which illustrates my problem: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ifkrthjs4zsluyq/VID_20160517_131255.mp4?dl=0

Cheers Benny

 
it isn't the 9.6v battery or what brand or capacity.........

it is the f*cking ETU unit playing up !!!!!

SOME ETU's work with 7.4v fresh off charge @ 8.4v BUT many people including my own FFR A2 had trouble

a 11.1v lipo will work or work much better for people having issues

Both G&G and some/most retailers are not addressing the issue blaming owners choice of battery rather than admit ETU is at fault

The suggestion is quite simply - stop buying more 9.6v's and try to source a small thin 11.1v lipo

or

send it back for refund coz the bottom line is that owners should not have these problems with a new "well designed" gun

Don't get fobbed off with lame excuses about ETU's "safety" voltage drop issue - in some cases it can be be very picky

or you could say perhaps some might be faulty

or I would say the design is F*CKED !!!!

G&G need to totally re-do the ETU and its voltage regulator or its reliable operation more to the point

 
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I just feel G&G should just man up, admit that some ETU's are picky and send out there 11.1v 20c lipo's

G&G's have recently raised their price a little on most models (probably inflation and dollar exchange rate maybe)

but anybody who may think of becoming a new G&G ETU owner at the increased prices should also get increased customer support/service too

Actually just think G&G should not have allowed this to happen but think there are quite a few picky ETU's out there that may only perform properly on 11.1v

Yeah - think G&G could of handled & improved this ETU problem a lot better in my book - disappointing is one of many words that comes to mind

fingers crossed she behaves herself and runs nice n snappy now

 
I had the same problem basically its that you have the mosfet and the ETU to power I use a 11.1 lipo and have no issues now

 
Left-Ear said:
I had the same problem basically its that you have the mosfet and the ETU to power I use a 11.1 lipo and have no issues now
Click to expand...
Thats not the problem its just badly made crap electronics inside. Lots of guns have a mosfet and etu and can still work fine on a 8.4v nimh.
 
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Hi guys.

I bought a new CM16 SRL and also a 11.1V 1300 mah 20c but I got an overheating issue with the stock motor.

After 200 / 300 bbs shooted in about 5-10 minutes the grip starts to warm a lot.

Is it normal when I use a 11.1v lipo or is a motor/electric problem?

 
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Motor height shimming problem

F*cking send it back tbh and get G&G to sort their stuff properly and get their f*cking act together

Shooting 20rps just over should not be such a big deal if gun was built correctly

Yes motor will get warm with bare hands, but you need to decide just how warm it gets. Warm is normal, very warm to hot it should not be getting and everybody's definition will vary. Very warm to hot is what I call silly speed stuff on 7.4v 30+rps - THAT is very warm/hot when letting rip

If you can see if you can check amps.

If a stock gun is drawing 15amps or more something ain't right imho. No way should stock gears n stuff draw 15a +

 
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JD8825 said:
HI have recently bought the rifle above and I have charged my 8.4 numchucks so they are ready for skirmish. They are both fully charged and when I connect it to the gun it won'the fire. And when I open the but plate there is a light that flashs red. Down the stock tube where the mosfet is. Any idea why this is? Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Hello. I have the same weapon and had the same issue. In summary, the nice folks at Patrol Base looked into this and spoke with the UK distributor. It turns out that 7.7v or 8.4v lipos are just not up to it because as soon as they drain a little, there isn't enough power. This is an issue with the MOSFET. Furthermore, I was advised that even if the 8.4v lipos worked, you may only get one game out of the battery before it stops working.

The solution that we came up with was to replace the lipos with 11.1v ones (which incidentally, Patrol Base gave me foc as a goodwill gesture) and since then I have had no issues with it. It fires really fast in full auto however, as I don't normally fire on full-auto in long bursts, it really isn't an issue for me.

There is a view that using an 11.1v battery on this weapon can lead to excessive wear on the moving parts thus reducing its life but Patrol Base were happy to honour the warranty if I used 11.1v so everyone is happy with the outcome. IMHO G&G could have designed this weapon with a better MOSFET that would be happy working with lower voltage batteries.

Incidentally, if you look up the CM16 SRL on the Patrol Base web site, you will see that they specify 11.1c lipos for it.

 
Prah said:
Hi guys.

I bought a new CM16 SRL and also a 11.1V 1300 mah 20c but I got an overheating issue with the stock motor.

After 200 / 300 bbs shooted in about 5-10 minutes the grip starts to warm a lot.

Is it normal when I use a 11.1v lipo or is a motor/electric problem?
Click to expand...
Yes, this is something that I experience with mine but as I don't fire for minutes at a time on full-auto, it isn't a problem for me. Wearing gloves (as you do) I don't notice anyway. BTW - you shoot one hell of a lot of BBs in 10 minutes. I sometimes don't fire that many in a 90 minute game :)

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi all.

I've just this minute signed up to the forums, specifically to post this response.

After owning my GC16 SRL since April 2016, I'd like to be able to say it was working flawlessly, however...........................

................. This weekend just gone, I decided to open up the gearbox to service it and replace the stock cylinder, head, piston, air nozzle and main spring [M110].

After replacing said parts and closing the gearbox back up, it was time for a dry fire test. So, I attached the motor grip and motor, connected a freshly charged 10.8v Ni-MH and pulled the trigger. It sounded briefly like the motor tried to turn but didn't. I pulled the trigger again, nothing. Checked the mosfet and got a 2-flash warning. Nothing else.

I have dismantled the gearbox to check the sector gear position in relation to the cut-off lever and have confirmed that they are set right. I'm baffled and slightly annoyed as all was fine BEFORE splitting the gearbox!!

Today, I tested everything with a multi-meter and another freshly charged 10.8v Ni-MH.

The battery registers 10.8v direct, when connected to the fet and gearbox with the trigger pulled I get a max of 4.58v and without the trigger pulled, a constant 3.51v.

I've now contacted G&G to ask for an explanation.

 
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