I have both a 11.1v lipo and a 7.4v lipo, where i usually use the 7.4 out of the two.
It is not blowback no
Also the wiring is going to get replaced as soon as possible thats for sure, the guy that had the gun before me had it screwd up.
The gun is ment for semi auto only, i forgot to mention that, so im not after the RPS at all. Its more for trigger response.
Looks like a G&G blowback to me
Bit missing on top of cylinder where blow back piston would of sat
Metal safety arm, trigger switch looks G&G-ish
Metal STD spring guide looks G&G
Bolts going through "normal" right side of box where as G&G's usually go through from selector plate side except on blowback models...
Hey I could be wrong and looking at a G&P box or something but first glance she looked to me like one
Anyway you will get overspin on 11.1v on 12:1 etc....
You shouldn't get it that much on 7.4v with stock wiring but depends on lipo C or burst and how quick the actual motor really is
And I would get her chrono'd first coz tbh m110 isn't gonna make any increase over a m100 with 2 teeth missing and not even a bearing spring guide or spacer to claw back any fps lost on AoE...
So yes either a bit more spacing or m115/120 on its own
BUT get it chrono'd first
Also when you get ya head round the speed issue and not to push it too much....
Your SHS piston is not going to last you yonks if going 30+. That plastic is very light - very very light like 10gms or so on its own but the plastic teeth strip very easily when pushed.
The swiss cheesing you may done - I wouldn't have drilled holes below the rail/guides as piston's plastic is very weak to begin with
also you probably haven't much of a dent in the weight of bare piston unless you start removing quite a bit and usually on top is best bet
unless you go real nutz swiss cheesing ya bare piston yo may only lose about 10% of piston weight
on a piston weight of say 11gms that equates to probably less than 1gm by what I can see in picture
Now if you fitted a bearing piston head - hope you used loctite thread seal coz they do come undone very easily/quickly
and add up to 5gms just on their own - G&G use a 5mm plastic spacer and you can go up to say a 10mm spacer
but you need to check the spring or spring guide don't bottom out on 10mm spacers
spacers will only be about 1.5gms to 2gms - so that alone will save up to 3gms over piston bearing - you would have to go some to swiss that much off.....
This attention to piston weight - which could be over 20gms:
edit: probably is over 20gms - 11gms piston and as you are using aluminium piston head with bearings....
that comes in a whopping 12.4gms !!!! so your piston weight is say 23gms or more fully assembled
you can get a full metal rack shs with piston head, o-ring + spacer coming in at about 19gms
or another heavier brand-x full rack piston - lightened at 22gms fully built
now getting a lighter piston as possible is good for faster return but on blowback box you don't want a heavy piston thudding into cylinder head if possible to reduce cracking - yes you got sorbo but still you want to try and keep it light as possible
(bit like being shot with 0.12 @ 350fps or .43 @ 350fps impact - the heavier mass at same speed will have more ouch)
Piston's and piston heads on their own are a ball-ache but if you understand and wish to not go so crazy then all steel shs blue pistons are best performers - the plastic tooth pistons by shs are crap by comparison
you can get a full metal shs piston pre swissed @ 13.5gms full metal rack
or an un-swissed one @ 15.6gms aprox
or a brand-x full metal piston is about 17.5gms
an ultimate plastic/metal mix piston is over that @ about 17gms & about £15 - why bother
yes plastic has the strip safety factor but if you keep it sensible you won't need to worry
Yes you can fit an AB Mosfet but these can make motors run warmer/hotter....
First off test where you at fps, rps on 7.4v and how she performs...
Also is she double firing or piston say half cocked...
Or
Are you flappin' about nozzle retraction and therefore it must be over running badly - nope very normal unless you run gun very slowly like stock on 7.2v nimah
PS - in one of them pics, ya AR latch is positioned wrong sort of trying to latch on spur gear instead of bevel gear
it is hard to see clearly but not sure if AR latch is fitted correctly or can't quite see where spring & which whay the latch is pointing
Now you may have just put it there out if way, but there is some wear on it and if not fitted properly the piston rolls backwards...
Is that what you mean by overspin, if so it is AR not fitted properly.
Yes it is a bitch to fit but Samurai's tip of neodym rare earth magnets underneath saved many a gearbox thrown across the room
And deffo yes you do need it and the bastid's spring too
uploaded and nicked from this post on Zero One:
http://forums.zeroin.co.uk/showthread.php?258993-G-amp-G-MP5-cracked-gearbox
Sorry Shizbazki, a clever mofo who know loads more about blowback boxes and how they can break
he is on here too and knows loads plus how to get blowback working effectively if anybody needs help
(bloody hate pbb, I struggle with just normal boxes)
I'm pretty - no bloody handsomely sure (in very poor lighting btw)
you got an old blowback G&G box so ease up a sec....
do some checks - hope AR is fitted correctly excuse if I'm wrong but hard to tell
get here chrono'd using just 7.4v first
report back with results on fps and rps - lay off 11.1v
and then we can go from there....
But if I'm right - really stick to 20rps on that box coz she very likely won't last too long even with no blowback operating
The G&G pbb boxes are weaker than normal non-blowback boxes so ffs go easy on this build
