GR15 Raider

[Samuelol]

Evening all,

I recently purchased a G&G GR15 Raider short. It's on its way so while I've been waiting, believe it or not, I've been thinking! The barrel of the short version is, well... Short! Am I terribly limited when it comes to range? I bought it primarily as a winter gun for CQB indoors but would Love to take it out onto the field in the summer.

Would adding a mock silencer with a longer inner barrel improve things? Was thinking about adding a 120mm silencer and replacing the barrel with a 363mm 6.03 during the summer? I understand I would have no option of taking the silencer off but it'd stay on all summer anyways.

The stock barrel length is about 260mm.

I suppose my question here today is would going from 260 to 360mm be of benefit when on field games? Also, would the added barrel length increase or decrease fps?

Sorry for the info overload!!! I'd be very grateful to anyone that can decipher what I've just asked

All my thanks in advance,

Sam.

 

[Grounded_Pilot]

Ok, let me put your mind to rest that:

In airsoft, the length of a barrel causes very, very little difference to accuracy/range. This is a common misconception because of sniper rifles and bullpup designs in RS.

If you want a long ranged, accurate gun, buy a decent hop rubber suitable for your FPS. If you want better results still, add a tight bore. 6.03mm should be sufficient!

A tight barrel will add up to 30fps, in some extreme cases. A longer barrel (if exceeding about 650mm are rumoured to have problems with the air pockets over taking the BBs, reducing FPS.

Also, in airsoft and real life, the use of a barrel makes the round fired (BB or bullet) more accurate as there are little outside forces while the shot accelerates. In real life, bullets can accelerate higher velocities, so longer barrels = more time for the bullet to reach max. speed before heading towards target. This make it more accurate than a pistol over the same distance because the 3" barrel (for example) lets the round experience outside forces earlier than that of an assault rifle!

Make any sense?

 

[Samuelol]

Ok, let me put your mind to rest that:
In airsoft, the length of a barrel causes very, very little difference to accuracy/range. This is a common misconception because of sniper rifles.

If you want a long ranged, accurate gun, buy a decent hop rubber suitable for your FPS. If you want better results still, add a tight bore. 6.03mm should be sufficient!

A tight barrel will add up to 30fps, in some extreme cases. A longer barrel (if exceeding about 650mm are rumoured to have problems with the air pockets over taking the BBs, reducing FPS.

Ahhhh very interesting points bud, I'm completely new to this so some guidance on the matter would be great.

An immediate issue that jumps out at me is that the gun as stock runs at about 350fps. Adding a tightbore would throw that 30 over my local sites limits. So, I suppose a spring downgrade would be in need? Any info on that too?! haha. Sorry matey, clueless.

 

[Samuelol]

Ahhhh very interesting points bud, I'm completely new to this so some guidance on the matter would be great.
An immediate issue that jumps out at me is that the gun as stock runs at about 350fps. Adding a tightbore would throw that 30 over my local sites limits. So, I suppose a spring downgrade would be in need? Any info on that too?! haha. Sorry matey, clueless.

Indeed that second point makes sense bud.

I'll go with a tightbore that fits the gun and upgrade the hopup - As soon as I know how! lol

 

[RR01]

Depending on the FPS of your standard setup then yes a longer barrel can increase FPS, as I've proved with a G&G CM16 Raider short barrel (229mm inner). Changing to a 363mm increased the standard FPS by an average of 35 FPS and using a 510mm increased it by over 100 FPS from standard (a low 280FPS on mine), so if yours is firing around 330 FPS from new you could take it over many site limits by increasing the barrel length.

It's worth borrowing one, if possible, before you spend the money and get it chrono'd with the 363mm to see if it stays within your local site limits. Just sticking the longer inner in your existing upper will give you the results you need before you buy the silencer, even though it may look silly without the outer barrel or silencer covering it.

 

[Samuelol]

I'll avoid increasing the barrel length I think then. I'll go with what grounded said and replace the stock barrel with a 247mm 6.03. Hopefully that won't have too much effect on the fps!

Can anyone direct me in the right direction for an appropriate hop up rubber? And how to swapout the barrel/hopup rubber in the first place! haha.

 

[Samuelol]

Update!! Scratch the 350fps stock - It runs at about 315fps so a tightbore should be fine Chosen a 6.03 247mm madbull, now just need to figure out the appropriate hopup rubber and how to change them both.

Thanks every one! Further input is Very appreciated.

Sam.

 

[RR01]

Update!! Scratch the 350fps stock - It runs at about 315fps so a tightbore should be fine Chosen a 6.03 247mm madbull, now just need to figure out the appropriate hopup rubber and how to change them both.
Thanks every one! Further input is Very appreciated.

Sam.

Different hop rubbers (and nubs) can give different results depending on your setup. What works well in one can give a totally different result in the same setup for someone else. That said, TM hop rubbers are usually good, as are Guarder and Madbulls own Shark blue, although sub 350fps you need a softer rubber. Try a 50% one. Those marked as 70% tend to work best in spring sniper rifles or DMR type AEGs where 400FPS + is the norm. Fitting is faily simple. Remove the hop and inner barrel, release the hop arm and remove the nub. Take out the plastic C clip that holds the barrel in place and pull in together with the hop rubber from the hop unit. Fit the new hop rubber, making sure the hop bulge is at the top and the long ridge in the bottom mates with the cutout on the bottom of the barrel.

Refit the inner barrel and hop ( a short spay of silicon lub on the outside of the hop rubber will help it slide in), fit the C clip, then refit the hop nub and hop arm. Before to put it back in the gun, hold the inner barrel up to a light and looking from the muzzle end, check how far in the hop bulge protrudes with no pressure on the arm. It should either be invisible or only just showing. NOw press on the hop arm to see how far in full hop takes it. It should be at least 1mm to about 2mm and it will depend on what weight ammo you use as to how much hop you need to set, although only trial and error will tell you that, so leave setting it until you can try it on at least a 70 yard range.

 

[Samuelol]

Different hop rubbers (and nubs) can give different results depending on your setup. What works well in one can give a totally different result in the same setup for someone else. That said, TM hop rubbers are usually good, as are Guarder and Madbulls own Shark blue, although sub 350fps you need a softer rubber. Try a 50% one. Those marked as 70% tend to work best in spring sniper rifles or DMR type AEGs where 400FPS + is the norm. Fitting is faily simple. Remove the hop and inner barrel, release the hop arm and remove the nub. Take out the plastic C clip that holds the barrel in place and pull in together with the hop rubber from the hop unit. Fit the new hop rubber, making sure the hop bulge is at the top and the long ridge in the bottom mates with the cutout on the bottom of the barrel.
Refit the inner barrel and hop ( a short spay of silicon lub on the outside of the hop rubber will help it slide in), fit the C clip, then refit the hop nub and hop arm. Before to put it back in the gun, hold the inner barrel up to a light and looking from the muzzle end, check how far in the hop bulge protrudes with no pressure on the arm. It should either be invisible or only just showing. NOw press on the hop arm to see how far in full hop takes it. It should be at least 1mm to about 2mm and it will depend on what weight ammo you use as to how much hop you need to set, although only trial and error will tell you that, so leave setting it until you can try it on at least a 70 yard range.

O_O Officially out of my depth! lol. No that's great thanks mate, if I really take my time with it I'm sure I'll be able to get it done. I think for now I'm going to just try swapping out the barrel for a tightbore and see how that goes. May change the rubber at a later date.

VERY stupid question here!! Get ready.... How do I tell which end is the muzzle end of the barrel? I know I know lol.

Thanks mate,

Sam.

 

[RR01]

O_O Officially out of my depth! lol. No that's great thanks mate, if I really take my time with it I'm sure I'll be able to get it done. I think for now I'm going to just try swapping out the barrel for a tightbore and see how that goes. May change the rubber at a later date.
VERY stupid question here!! Get ready.... How do I tell which end is the muzzle end of the barrel? I know I know lol.

Thanks mate,

Sam.

The one without the big hole in the top is the muzzle, i.e. the plain end. The hole where the hop rubber fits and which has the groove cut in the bottom is the breach end.

 

[Samuelol]

The one without the big hole in the top is the muzzle, i.e. the plain end. The hole where the hop rubber fits and which has the groove cut in the bottom is the breach end.

Got it, sorry about that! lol.

Hole in the top so that the hopup comes into use makes sense now. Going to try the tightbore and see how it goes! Many MANY thanks everyone, can't wait!

Sam.

 

[jcheeseright]

Additionally, if you can change a barrel, you can definitely change a hop rubber, it's the same procedure, you just pull the old rubber out of the hop unit and put the new one on the end of the barrel before putting it back into the hop unit!

 

[Grounded_Pilot]

I completely missed this discussion going on!

RR01 has made some brilliant points, all of which are helpful and accurate that I have read.

When it comes to choosing a hop rubber, see if you can get your hands on either:

TM, Guarder Clear, Madbull Blue Shark or even (if really lucky) a FireFly Red hop rubber.

I have used all of these in rifles. All with wonderful results!

But as stated above, guns differ. What might work totally in one gun (even the same type or brand of gun) may not necessarily work in another!

But at the end of the day, your rifle COULD WELL BE PERFECTLY GOOD AS IT IS!!! Some rifles are awesome at stock, and actually get worse if tinkered with (oh why did I tinker with my stock L96...it was so perfect.. I got greedy!)

 

[Samuelol]

I'm amazed by how solid a response I've recieved tonight!! Many thanks to everyone that has contributed, I feel utterly educated! lol.

I'm taking your advice that it may be good enough as is and will like I said, stick with adding a tightbore for now, can always add a new rubber at a later date I'll keep you all updated!!!

The mrs recently gave me permission to go nuts and get fully kitted out - No less than about 30 packages on their way to my door. It's safe to say my postman may be a tad confused!

Sam.

 

[Grounded_Pilot]

The mrs recently gave me permission to go nuts and get fully kitted out - No less than about 30 packages on their way to my door. It's safe to say my postman may be a tad confused!

Either that or you'll be arousing the attention of the POPO! But the guy who usually does my courier services always smiles like a kid at Christmas... he knows what's in my packages!

Also, if buying a new barrel, why not a new rubber? If you're taking the barrel out, you can do the hop rubber easy. It'll take 2 seconds longer. Simply remove to old rubber, put it in a spares box and put the new one on the barrel!

Hop rubbers cost less than £10. So get one you ninny.

I recently ordered an A+ Studio REAPS AEG hop rubber from HK... cost a whole £7 odd... looking forward to seeing their true performance. I have heard SO MUCH good stuff about them, but also a few negatives!

 

[Samuelol]

Either that or you'll be arousing the attention of the POPO! But the guy who usually does my courier services always smiles like a kid at Christmas... he knows what's in my packages!
Also, if buying a new barrel, why not a new rubber? If you're taking the barrel out, you can do the hop rubber easy. It'll take 2 seconds longer. Simply remove to old rubber, put it in a spares box and put the new one on the barrel!

Hop rubbers cost less than £10. So get one you ninny.

I recently ordered an A+ Studio REAPS AEG hop rubber from HK... cost a whole £7 odd... looking forward to seeing their true performance. I have heard SO MUCH good stuff about them, but also a few negatives!

True that bud! lol. I'll have a little search around now - Any recommendations re websites?

Thanks again,

Sam.