• Hi Guest. Welcome to the new forums. All of your posts and personal messages have been migrated. Attachments (i.e. images) and The (Old) Classifieds have been wiped.

    The old forums will be available for a couple of weeks should you wish to grab old images or classifieds listings content. Go Here

    If you have any issues please post about them in the Forum Feedback thread: Go Here

MOSFET help.

Pretty much. Airsoft guns are simple beasts.

As for jcheese - stick around, he grows on you ;)
Many thanks for being a little more mature with your reply.

I just thought with all these aftermarket parts that gearboxes were technologically advanced boxes packed with miniature bits and bobs. I've never opened one so I hope you can understand my lack of knowledge and believing what airsoft websites say.

 
It's those small changes that make a big difference. Apart from helping it function better and last longer, it will perform that little bit better than everyone else's AEG. Giving you an advantage on the battlefield.

Ok, I'll respond with as mature an attitude as I can; 99% of the sh*t you can read on t'internet about 'airsoft gun upgrades' is a load of wank. The vast majority of it's written by 14 year old kids who still cling to the idea that a longer tighter barrel is more accurate and that LiPo batteries will scorch your trigger contacts in minutes so you MUST have a MOSFET or your gun will break.

All false.

If you want good consistency at range (note; not accuracy, there's no such thing as an accurate airsoft gun, just consistent ones) squeeze out the maximum FPS your site allows and get your hop up working perfectly. The FPS isn't a MUST HAVE, but a good hop-up is. Since I don't know what brand your gun is I can't advise you on what to do to improve your hop up, but a standard tokyo marui hop up unit and rubber is always a pretty safe bet.

With barrels quality of finish is more important than bore diameter or length, a 100mm long 6.08mm diameter barrel with a flawless inside will be more consistent than a 600mm long 6.03mm diameter barrel with even a tiny imperfection.

MOSFETs have a place, certainly the more expensive computerised ones which provide all sorts of awesome features, but even the standard pure-MOSFET that just routes power past the trigger contacts is useful... if there's a problem which requires it. If it aint broke, don't fix it is a mantra I pretty much live by. If your trigger contacts haven't burned out, they aren't broken. I personally don't advocate the use of 11.1v batteries in anything really, there's no need for 25+ rounds per second monsters and the added wear from the increased cycle speed will wear the gun out quicker. Use a 7.4v LiPo and you'll get the advantage of a higher burst discharge rate than NiMh meaning your semi-auto trigger response will be quicker without the trigger contacts burning out and your piston stripping because the whole thing's cycling at a million miles an hour.

Short story:

If there's a particular aspect of your gun's performance that you feel is lacking then there is a way to fix that problem, however, throwing parts at it as 'upgrades' because on the internet everyone has an upgraded gun is at best a money pit, at worst a good way to screw the gun up.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Ok, I'll respond with as mature an attitude as I can; 99% of the sh*t you can read on t'internet about 'airsoft gun upgrades' is a load of wank. The vast majority of it's written by 14 year old kids who still cling to the idea that a longer tighter barrel is more accurate and that LiPo batteries will scorch your trigger contacts in minutes so you MUST have a MOSFET or your gun will break.

All false.

If you want good consistency at range (note; not accuracy, there's no such thing as an accurate airsoft gun, just consistent ones) squeeze out the maximum FPS your site allows and get your hop up working perfectly. The FPS isn't a MUST HAVE, but a good hop-up is. Since I don't know what brand your gun is I can't advise you on what to do to improve your hop up, but a standard tokyo marui hop up unit and rubber is always a pretty safe bet.

With barrels quality of finish is more important than bore diameter or length, a 100mm long 6.08mm diameter barrel with a flawless inside will be more consistent than a 600mm long 6.03mm diameter barrel with even a tiny imperfection.

MOSFETs have a place, certainly the more expensive computerised ones which provide all sorts of awesome features, but even the standard pure-MOSFET that just routes power past the trigger contacts is useful... if there's a problem which requires it. If it aint broke, don't fix it is a mantra I pretty much live by. If your trigger contacts haven't burned out, they aren't broken. I personally don't advocate the use of 11.1v batteries in anything really, there's no need for 25+ rounds per second monsters and the added wear from the increased cycle speed will wear the gun out quicker. Use a 7.4v LiPo and you'll get the advantage of a higher burst discharge rate than NiMh meaning your semi-auto trigger response will be quicker without the trigger contacts burning out and your piston stripping because the whole thing's cycling at a million miles an hour.

Short story:

If there's a particular aspect of your gun's performance that you feel is lacking then there is a way to fix that problem, however, throwing parts at it as 'upgrades' because on the internet everyone has an upgraded gun is at best a money pit, at worst a good way to screw the gun up.
if it's this one:

http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/21366-tokyo-maruisystema-akm-originally-ak47/?hl=systema

internally, leave it alone, with the stuff that's in there you're looking at mega bucks to get any real gains. Feed it 7.4v LiPo batteries and good quality ammo (0.25g blasters or similar) and it'll last you forever.
Yes, that's the one. I must sincerely apologise and at the same time thank you for showing your true colours. I just didn't appreciate sarcasm to my lack of knowledge as a middle aged guy. So I apologise, but thank you for explaining in great detail the whole "upgrading" aspect of airsoft. I didn't realise it was so basic. You're right about those 14 year olds as most reviews on YouTube are around that age.

My son watches that Scoutthedoggy guy on YouTube and in his videos you always see guys with maxed out guns and they always get the hits. However, after your explanation it's simply logic, more friction means more wear.

So thank you.

 
I use a plug and play mosfet on my Sten gun. I use it solely for the burst fire aspect so have not hardwired it. From the instructions that came with it, it looks like a relatively easy job to hardwire it but if you have no experience of soldering or dismantling your gun, you might want to ask around at your next game and see if theres someone who could help you. I bet your local site has someone who knows a bit, they have hire guns to look after.

I would suggest that a non plug and play mosfet might be a better choice if you are going to hardwire a mosfet, Ian Gere seems to be the most knowledgeable person we have about Mosfets, maybe send him a PM?

 
I feel we've strayed a little off the point here, so I'll sum up the answer for you:

- Mosfet: At their most basic they are a "gate" that controls the flow of power to the motor by way of 1 or 2 additional signal wires. These are wired to the trigger contacts in place of the power wire(s). This allows for more efficient power transfer (resulting in better trigger response) and prevents carbon build up on the trigger contacts as they are no longer part of the power circuit.

More advanced fets add voltage protection, burst features, pre-cocking, active braking bla bla bla.

"Plug and play" mosfets will only give you burst functions and voltage protection as your trigger contacts will still be part of the power circuit.

A mosfet cannot improve your rate of fire in any real sense (they may be very slight improvement due to more efficient power delivery). To get any real gains in RoF you need to look at upgrading your motor and battery to start with and gears if you want to go further. This does lead to its own problems as you will be putting your gearbox under a lot more stress. So then you need to look at gear shimming, lubrication, angle of engagement, sorbo pads and so on (and on). They are hundreds of written and video guides on what these things do and how to properly do them.

Deans connectors: basically are a better electrical connector than tamiya style ones (they can handle a much higher current), will add to the efficiency of the power circuit. These are advisable to use if you use lipos.

Bottom line is that if you dont want to get into the mucky muck of your gearbox then find a reputable airsoft tech to quote you on the cost of upgrading to a high speed set up.

 
I use a plug and play mosfet on my Sten gun. I use it solely for the burst fire aspect so have not hardwired it. From the instructions that came with it, it looks like a relatively easy job to hardwire it but if you have no experience of soldering or dismantling your gun, you might want to ask around at your next game and see if theres someone who could help you. I bet your local site has someone who knows a bit, they have hire guns to look after.

I would suggest that a non plug and play mosfet might be a better choice if you are going to hardwire a mosfet, Ian Gere seems to be the most knowledgeable person we have about Mosfets, maybe send him a PM?
I feel we've strayed a little off the point here, so I'll sum up the answer for you:

- Mosfet: At their most basic they are a "gate" that controls the flow of power to the motor by way of 1 or 2 additional signal wires. These are wired to the trigger contacts in place of the power wire(s). This allows for more efficient power transfer (resulting in better trigger response) and prevents carbon build up on the trigger contacts as they are no longer part of the power circuit.

More advanced fets add voltage protection, burst features, pre-cocking, active braking bla bla bla.

"Plug and play" mosfets will only give you burst functions and voltage protection as your trigger contacts will still be part of the power circuit.

A mosfet cannot improve your rate of fire in any real sense (they may be very slight improvement due to more efficient power delivery). To get any real gains in RoF you need to look at upgrading your motor and battery to start with and gears if you want to go further. This does lead to its own problems as you will be putting your gearbox under a lot more stress. So then you need to look at gear shimming, lubrication, angle of engagement, sorbo pads and so on (and on). They are hundreds of written and video guides on what these things do and how to properly do them.

Deans connectors: basically are a better electrical connector than tamiya style ones (they can handle a much higher current), will add to the efficiency of the power circuit. These are advisable to use if you use lipos.

Bottom line is that if you dont want to get into the mucky muck of your gearbox then find a reputable airsoft tech to quote you on the cost of upgrading to a high speed set up.
I understand now, many thanks for all your help. I desire a high rate of fire no longer since all your help in explaining it actually wears your gearbox even more.

I'll go by what I've learnt, maybe get a high torgue motor, 7.4 LiPo, and deans connectors and leave it? I do apologise for my lack of technical knowledge. You've all certainly helped me fully understand that I don't need to have a £900 maxed out gun to be better than everyone else's. I'm glad I joined this forum into a community with so many great guys.

 
I understand now, many thanks for all your help. I desire a high rate of fire no longer since all your help in explaining it actually wears your gearbox even more.

I'll go by what I've learnt, maybe get a high torgue motor, 7.4 LiPo, and deans connectors and leave it? I do apologise for my lack of technical knowledge. You've all certainly helped me fully understand that I don't need to have a £900 maxed out gun to be better than everyone else's. I'm glad I joined this forum into a community with so many great guys.
Just as an aside - if it's still got the original TM motor and it says EG1000 on the side, leave it alone until it breaks (if it breaks) it's plenty high enough torque for an M100 spring. I run mine on 7.4 LiPos and it's fine (and it's connected through standard Tamiya connectors too by the way).

 
Just as an aside - if it's still got the original TM motor and it says EG1000 on the side, leave it alone until it breaks (if it breaks) it's plenty high enough torque for an M100 spring. I run mine on 7.4 LiPos and it's fine (and it's connected through standard Tamiya connectors too by the way).
Hold on let me check.

 
Back
Top