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THE TM MWS thread

Which nineball bucking are you trying to fit?

Lined up the grove’s correctly?

Photos of setup will help.
Managed to get it to fit. It was a nineball wide airflow (whatever that is)

My experience with autobot rubbers is that they seem to be great in everything that isn't an MWS or AKM. I have autobots in damn near everything, my sniper rifles, my pistols... but not my MWSs or my AKM because they were just horrendously inconsistent and flung BBs all over the place.
I've not had a chance to test mine properly. Love the autobot in my pistol, so hoping it'll work well in my noveske. 

 
Huge list, i tried reading through. 

I am planning on getting this with 3 extra mags.

Can someone point me to a better deal?

I really wanted the MK18 but thats super expensive. 

Also worried that it says you will get type89 mags or MWS mags?

Also if you want to point me in the right direction in what to buy to get the MK18 look and some good to have upgrades, please pop some links below ❤️ Thanks.

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During my research I found this in french thread:

Petit retour après avoir testé des chargeurs type 89 dans ma MWS: parfaitement compatibles. Ils sont quasi identiques en dehors des marquages de munitions et d’une couleur plus sombre que le gris d’origine. Le poids et les performances sont les mêmes également. Et ils ont l’avantage d’être en stock chez AE!

[SIZE=12.8px]In english and in short, TM mag type89 are compatible with our Mws.[/SIZE]

 
So, finally got to test my mk12 MWS with the sixG nub and stock TM hop rubber. Initially I was a little disappointed as while it hopped .4s, it required me to put the hop all the way on and I want to be running .43s through it once I get through these .4s. However, as the hop rubber started bedding in it started hopping way better and when I tested it with some of my friend's .43s it fired like a dream; it's set up at 1.8J (ish) and locked to semi as a DMR. Hard to get a gauge on what the effective range will be because it was stupidly windy on Sunday, so will have to see on a less breezy day to properly zero the scope and see where I can reliably put rounds.

 
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Always remember to wash your new rubbers with fairy and hot water guys n gals!

Use your nylon barrel rod to turn it inside out without damaging it ;)

 
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Well, I've never done this - does it make a difference? Just to get any factory residue - silicone etc off it?


Indeed, how does a rubber impart backspin? Friction.

This is why you always want the rubber bone dry of all lubricants.

 
I really wanted the MK18 but thats super expensive. 

Also worried that it says you will get type89 mags or MWS mags?

Also if you want to point me in the right direction in what to buy to get the MK18 look and some good to have upgrades, please pop some links below ❤️ Thanks.


I got my MK18 from Fire Support. I seem to remember Surplus Store being reasonable but the deal with three extra mags is a good one. I contacted FS about mags at the time and they confirmed the only difference between M4 and Type 89 MWS mags is the look. I got extra mags on eBay of all places, mainly because I prefer the look of the M4 mag.

If you're looking to turn your M4A1 into a MK18 then there are some posts in this thread that would be worth you finding, although if you're planning to buy the stuff straight away you may find it more cost effective to just get a MK18 .... which is out of stock by the look of it. Fire Support's stock alerts are pretty timely though, that's how I landed mine.

 
Hello, I've been doing airsoft a couple of years but I'm very new to GBBR and the mk18 mws is my first gas gun so apologise for any stupid questions, any help is massively appreciated!

Firstly I got the gun out read the manuals (looked at the pictures) there was one picture that confused me abit about splitting the gun as I've never done it before and don't want to be stuck if I ever need to, what position does the bolt need to be in when taking out the pins and splitting, logic tells me forward but I've learnt not to trust logic haha. Also is there anything else i should know?

Secondly is there anything I should change or do to the gun immediately or just wait until I need to do it. I have had a look on YouTube but everyone seems to call things different names and I'm not massively clued up anyway. 

Third I made the decision to use nuprol 2.0 green gas as I couldn't find any dry gas available in the uk and I don't mind the extra maintenance (once I know how), problem is I use 0.28g and its firing 305fps which would be too hot for uk limits but then it fires 330 on 0.20g which is ok so I'm not really sure how that is happening and what I need to do if I want to use 0.28g as I'm worried about using weaker gas incase i break something. 

Finally, using green gas, how often would you recommend cleaning. i attend games every Sunday sometimes every other Sunday.

Once again thank you for any help i didn't realise how stressful it would be but i kind of like it haha.

 
Firstly I got the gun out read the manuals (looked at the pictures) there was one picture that confused me abit about splitting the gun as I've never done it before and don't want to be stuck if I ever need to, what position does the bolt need to be in when taking out the pins and splitting, logic tells me forward but I've learnt not to trust logic haha. Also is there anything else i should know?

Secondly is there anything I should change or do to the gun immediately or just wait until I need to do it. I have had a look on YouTube but everyone seems to call things different names and I'm not massively clued up anyway. 

Third I made the decision to use nuprol 2.0 green gas as I couldn't find any dry gas available in the uk and I don't mind the extra maintenance (once I know how), problem is I use 0.28g and its firing 305fps which would be too hot for uk limits but then it fires 330 on 0.20g which is ok so I'm not really sure how that is happening and what I need to do if I want to use 0.28g as I'm worried about using weaker gas incase i break something. 

Finally, using green gas, how often would you recommend cleaning. i attend games every Sunday sometimes every other Sunday.

Once again thank you for any help i didn't realise how stressful it would be but i kind of like it haha.


Newish here too, had my DE MWS a few months now. So take what i say with a little salt, but from my experience and research -

Firstly, the Bolt needs to be forward, and the gun has to be primed. Just rack the gun, and punch out the pins.

Secondly, especially with green gas, you need to swap the nozzle return spring. Bavtac make the best out there afaik.

Thirdly, Its a whole lot of maths and physics, but Gas guns are prone to this thing called Joule creep - far more than their AEG or spring counterparts. Without going to jargon, you'll notice that heavier BBs have proportionally more power than they would with AEGs. To remedy this you'll want to get this thing called an NPAS. The best one out there is the Federal Concepts NPAS/ FEDA valve (However they're out of stock right now, as he's swapping to a newer version, shouldn't be too long until they're back in stock), followed by the RA-Tech, then the Angry gun. 

Sub-Note, using weaker gas is actually what the TM system is made for, green gas is stronger than what the system is designed for, so using duster gas (otherwise known as 144a) is also a perfectly alright alternative to installing an NPAS.

Lastly, after every game day. Especially if its outside, and especially with green gas. Explosive enterprises made a good video on how to maintain your gun, but its mainly - wipe the barrel, wipe the BCG, wipe the visible parts of the lower and all of the inside of the upper, apply lube where needed, and go.

 
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Secondly, especially with green gas, you need to swap the nozzle return spring. Bavtac make the best out there afaik.
I just want to add that TM/ GM mags must not be used with the DE nozzle. If u changed the nozzle to the GM complete set, then there is no need to purchase the bavtac return spring.

 
Hello, I've been doing airsoft a couple of years but I'm very new to GBBR and the mk18 mws is my first gas gun so apologise for any stupid questions, any help is massively appreciated!

Firstly I got the gun out read the manuals (looked at the pictures) there was one picture that confused me abit about splitting the gun as I've never done it before and don't want to be stuck if I ever need to, what position does the bolt need to be in when taking out the pins and splitting, logic tells me forward but I've learnt not to trust logic haha. Also is there anything else i should know?

Secondly is there anything I should change or do to the gun immediately or just wait until I need to do it. I have had a look on YouTube but everyone seems to call things different names and I'm not massively clued up anyway. 

Third I made the decision to use nuprol 2.0 green gas as I couldn't find any dry gas available in the uk and I don't mind the extra maintenance (once I know how), problem is I use 0.28g and its firing 305fps which would be too hot for uk limits but then it fires 330 on 0.20g which is ok so I'm not really sure how that is happening and what I need to do if I want to use 0.28g as I'm worried about using weaker gas incase i break something. 

Finally, using green gas, how often would you recommend cleaning. i attend games every Sunday sometimes every other Sunday.

Once again thank you for any help i didn't realise how stressful it would be but i kind of like it haha.


For summer in the UK run Nuprol 2.0 / green or weaker.

Colder times of the year Nuprol 3.0 / red

Winter 0c Nuprol 4.0 / black

Basically you are using gas at different pressures to maintain the same FPS year round.

Buy a spare nozzle return spring, it will break eventually but this will be a good few thousand rounds!

The nub and the plastic buffer part 'b' are the only parts that need upgrading or protecting.

Get into the routing of cleaning your gun before or after each game day.

Lube the piston seal before or after each game day with TechT silicone grease.

Lightly oil all metal on metal moving parts with Parker Hale gun oil.

Keep the inner barrel clean, and the bucking dry.

Always store your mags with gas in them.

 
I just want to add that TM/ GM mags must not be used with the DE nozzle.
Dunno about this, couple thousand through and my DE's nozzle is fine and I've been using TM mags, and most people recommend using the GM mags with the DE because the DE mags are based off the GM mags (The GMs are just better though).
 

For summer in the UK run Nuprol 2.0 / green or weaker.

Colder times of the year Nuprol 3.0 / red

Winter 0c Nuprol 4.0 / black

Lightly oil all metal on metal moving parts with Parker Hale gun oil.
On the gas end, The max anyone should be putting through the MWS is red, black is overkill even in 0c, remember this gun was made to run duster gas in japan which has climates varying from scalding in the southerner areas to below freezing in the northernmost areas. Red is good for even 0c if you do your due diligence with sealing (Which is really required for running any gbbr in winter). Black gas is way more likely to break your gun (or even your mags, i found out).

On the oil thing, I'll admit im not lubrication expert. So I'd never heard of Parker Hale gun oil, and after looking at it, it doesn't seem to contain anything that provides a boundary lubricant (e.g. PTFE/Syncolon my beloved). It's marketed as a rust preventer(?).  What makes you recommend that?

 
DE mags are based off the GM mags (The GMs are just better though).
DE mags are not the same as GM mags, they are both based off magpul pmags, but the guts are completely different. But you are right in saying that GM mags are better.

 
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Dunno about this, couple thousand through and my DE's nozzle is fine and I've been using TM mags, and most people recommend using the GM mags with the DE because the DE mags are based off the GM mags (The GMs are just better though).
 

On the gas end, The max anyone should be putting through the MWS is red, black is overkill even in 0c, remember this gun was made to run duster gas in japan which has climates varying from scalding in the southerner areas to below freezing in the northernmost areas. Red is good for even 0c if you do your due diligence with sealing (Which is really required for running any gbbr in winter). Black gas is way more likely to break your gun (or even your mags, i found out).

On the oil thing, I'll admit im not lubrication expert. So I'd never heard of Parker Hale gun oil, and after looking at it, it doesn't seem to contain anything that provides a boundary lubricant (e.g. PTFE/Syncolon my beloved). It's marketed as a rust preventer(?).  What makes you recommend that?


Re black gas, in freezing conditions its pressure is considerably reduced, yes if you are stupid and use it when warmer breakages will occur.

You are correct Parker gun oil does not contain PTFE or any other modern slippery substance, it is a mineral oil of which its natural properties provide lubrication.

It is also lightweight, so it penetrates, does not clog, and it cleans, it is not a one time treatment, it is meant to be applied and removed with each usage of the RIF just as you would a real firearm.

I mean i havent run MWS's since they came out or anything.

 
its impossible to find 250mm maple or crazyjet inner barrel where you guys shopping those stuff?

 
its impossible to find 250mm maple or crazyjet inner barrel where you guys shopping those stuff?
they seem to be OOS everywhere, took me ages to track down a 370mm crazy jet barrel for my kc02 build.

I expect a big restock soon

 
I’ve been getting wrist ache in trigger finger hand when holding the rifle for long durations. It feels like the rear grip angle is too harsh and I’m having to bend my wrist a lot when holding the gun. 
 

Is this common? Any tips for this? Either new handle or change the way I hold the gun? 

 
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