THE TM MWS thread

[gunbod007]

Abbey or Nuprol 

Is this chart remotely right?

Abbey 144a = Nuprol 1

Abbey Ultra = Nuprol 2

Abbey Vertex = Nuprol 3,4

I feel like maybe the abbey is slightly weaker than the nuprol but I have been scratching my head as everyone has a different favourite gas.

Anyone with actual experience with these two? I am thinking to go Ultra by abbey or Nuprol 2 for everyday unless very hot or very cold

P.S thanks to anyone putting up with an MWS noob and all my noonish comments. I have been trying to scroll through the 160 pages and It is really useful! best forum th

 

[Cyberlawyer]

My personal experience is that Abby Ultra is a bit weaker than Nuprol 2, but the MWS is pretty gas efficient so runs well on both. I prefer Nuprol 2, (or 3 or 4 in certain conditions), but it depends what you have available.

I do have a couple of metal slide pistols that run like crap on Abby Ultra, but will chug away all day on Nuprol 2, hence my preference.

 

[gunbod007]

My personal experience is that Abby Ultra is a bit weaker than Nuprol 2, but the MWS is pretty gas efficient so runs well on both. I prefer Nuprol 2, (or 3 or 4 in certain conditions), but it depends what you have available.

I do have a couple of metal slide pistols that run like crap on Abby Ultra, but will chug away all day on Nuprol 2, hence my preference.

And can I ask what sort of FPS you get with the Nuprol or Ultra without any npas or regulator for it?

 

[Cyberlawyer]

In all honesty I have no idea, I don’t thing I ever chronoed them before I fitted an npas.

 

[gunbod007]

In all honesty I have no idea, I don’t thing I ever chronoed them before I fitted an npas.

fair enough, trying to avoid messing with an npas if possible. I think the Abbey ultra should be fine.

 

[Cyberlawyer]

I’d recommend an npas to regulate performance variations based on temperature. Over the last summer (during the small window you could get a game) it was so hot green gas was running too hot to pass chrono.

It is a bit of a pain to set up every game day, but much more precise and way cheaper than carrying multiple cans of gas. I will use 2.0 95%of the time and only switch to red/black gas if it is very chilly.

 

[gunbod007]

I’d recommend an npas to regulate performance variations based on temperature. Over the last summer (during the small window you could get a game) it was so hot green gas was running too hot to pass chrono.

It is a bit of a pain to set up every game day, but much more precise and way cheaper than carrying multiple cans of gas. I will use 2.0 95%of the time and only switch to red/black gas if it is very chilly.

Okay thanks, I know there is a doc with recommend npas but out of interest which one are you using?

What was putting me off, was hearing that they can actually be quite inconsistent 

Also are your BCG and nozzle spring stock or upgraded to handle the gas?

 

[Cyberlawyer]

I’m using the black MWS one. Most of my gun is stock internally my only internal upgrades are inner barrel, hop rubber, hop hub and npas and that’s it. 
 

I have a 450 FPS DMR as one of my MWS’ and in terms of performance the above list (with a long inner barrel) is all it took. 

 

[Reap]

Same here, I had bought the SixG nub months in advance of buying an MWS after extensive research. Bought the MK.18 so I would have the option of using the Mk18, or swapping to my Block II rail, then the barrel nut stopped me. I have a proper tool, a heatgun, and an AR clamp, but I'm nervous how much heat I should be applying. I don't want to melt or damage anything internally, if that's even possible. Do people remove the 6 hex screws holding the rail to the body before they try unscrewing the barrel nut? 

Also, I know it's a dumb question, but it IS lefty loosey, right? I don't want to find out I've actually been tightening the thing...

yes it’s counterclockwise to loosen, where did you get the tool from? I have the heat gun, but I want a tool that fits all 4 teeth so that the pressure is applied evenly, at the moment I’m leaning towards making one myself with a bit of grinding and welding.

 

[Andropheonix]

Sorry to slide in here my dudes, I'm going to be buying a TM M4A1 MWS on Thursday (First GBBR in the collection), did a lot of research before committing to it, I did read that if you want to use green gas you need an upgraded valve blocker or you'll be in trouble when the OEM part breaks, so I managed to get the Dynamic Precision reinforced aluminum valve blocker, 2 quick questions if anyone has time.

1. Is there a video or guide floating round (I did do a quick forum search) that I can follow for installing it?

2. Should the rubber hose that goes inside the spring be slightly smaller than the spring? Looking at mine, it's not so it doesn't look like the spring will ever be able to retract fully... 

Cheers, gents!

View attachment 68023

 

[Cyberlawyer]

Personally I can’t say I have ever used one and all of my guns have seen plenty of red and black gas as well as green. Only upgrade I have made to the BGC is an npas to regulate FPS and I keep a couple of spare Nozzle return springs on hand as they can go (although they can last ages, it’s a bit of a lottery).

I’d run it stock for a while and only install the upgrades if the OEM parts break.

 

[AlphaBear]

yes it’s counterclockwise to loosen, where did you get the tool from? I have the heat gun, but I want a tool that fits all 4 teeth so that the pressure is applied evenly, at the moment I’m leaning towards making one myself with a bit of grinding and welding.

I believe that MK18 barrel nut is the same spec as the standard MWS barrel nut. If so one just needS a metal tube of the correct diameter and then mill out the notches in the tube to fit the barrel nut. Drill a hole out on the muzzle end and then shove a metal bar through it for leverage. Twist. That should do it, surely? 
 

Of course my theory depends upon the MK18 nut being the same as the MWS nut. 

 

[Arassuil]

Sorry to slide in here my dudes, I'm going to be buying a TM M4A1 MWS on Thursday (First GBBR in the collection), did a lot of research before committing to it, I did read that if you want to use green gas you need an upgraded valve blocker or you'll be in trouble when the OEM part breaks, so I managed to get the Dynamic Precision reinforced aluminum valve blocker, 2 quick questions if anyone has time.

1. Is there a video or guide floating round (I did do a quick forum search) that I can follow for installing it?

2. Should the rubber hose that goes inside the spring be slightly smaller than the spring? Looking at mine, it's not so it doesn't look like the spring will ever be able to retract fully... 

Cheers, gents!

Not 100% sure on the rubber tube though I believe it's just there as a guide for the spring, so I cannot imagine it will hurt to trim it down. Eagel6 have a great video on bolt dissassembly. It's what I used to learn when I first picked up my MWS.

 

[Hypokondrikern]

So I managed to pick up a mildly abused lower to match up with my spare upper so I will have 3 complete MWS in 10” 14” and 18” barrel lengths.

My question to the collective is that this lower has had dummy anti-rotation latches fitted to it. (It is the absolute appalling manner that these were fitted in that is the cause of the abuse). Pretty sure I can fix the damage and refinish the lower to the point it will be invisible, but the original punch pin is missing. Having been replaced by the threaded rod for the latches. Any one have any experience with these? are they OK or should I make the effort to reinstate the original punch pin?

I just received my pair of dummy anti-rotation pins from Aliexpress... I am starting to get second thoughts about installing them since I read this post. What abuse has the system taken from them? Purely cosmetic? or was it the uncaring method of appliance from the previous owner that is to blame? 

 

[Cyberlawyer]

The anti rotation bolts I have require two holes to be drilled in the lower. Where the fake forward trigger box retaining pins are located. These fit two small studs in the front of the anti-rotation pins that stop them twisting.
 

These need to be drilled very carefully preferably with a pillar drill and using a punch hole as a guide. With the trigger box removed just to be safe. The maniac that installed the ones I have clearly didn’t exercise proper care and made a real mess of drilling one side.

To fix it I’m going to have to fill the crater he created and sand a refinish a bit of the receiver.

given I can see absolutely no practical reason to fit them I can’t see why anyone would want to drill holes in their receiver just for a minor aesthetic change.

 

[Hypokondrikern]

So I notice that g&p have released an extended P-Mag for the MWS.... Has anyone managed to test one, and if so how does it compare to the other P-mags out there for consistency?

https://shop.jkarmy.com/g-p-g-mag-long-ver-for-marui-tm-mws-gbbr-system-black-magazine-p-mag-style.html

This video with subtitles ( translated ) give you some ideas of what to expect. G&P does generally quality products for the MWS but I'd still wait another 2-3 months to hear more opinions. 

 

[AlphaBear]

Yes, I have managed to remove mine with a electric heat gun and 'special tool' I fabribodged at work from some (I think) 26mm OD conduit as seen the the attached pic.  It was quite the horror show, but came off pretty easily once I had got it all clamped in a vice with an AR receiver clam.

I shall be letting the tool go with the set when I flog the MK18 rail, barrel nut, flash hider, front sling loop point, rear stock and sights.

View attachment 65534

View attachment 65535

This is the tool I'm on about. One of our members made one..... 

 

[Hypokondrikern]

The anti rotation bolts I have require two holes to be drilled in the lower. Where the fake forward trigger box retaining pins are located. These fit two small studs in the front of the anti-rotation pins that stop them twisting.
 

These need to be drilled very carefully preferably with a pillar drill and using a punch hole as a guide. With the trigger box removed just to be safe. The maniac that installed the ones I have clearly didn’t exercise proper care and made a real mess of drilling one side.

To fix it I’m going to have to fill the crater he created and sand a refinish a bit of the receiver.

given I can see absolutely no practical reason to fit them I can’t see why anyone would want to drill holes in their receiver just for a minor aesthetic change.

I see, well, my MWS is in for a similar journey although with more care...

The beauty is in the beholder of they eye. I truly distaste all these FURGI-builds that have started to pop up lately, however, adore the look of the civilian AR and minor details such as anti rotation pins haha. 

I hope you got a good price for the MWS and I'd recommend an epoxy with steel fibers for the filling of the cavities. It will be an easy job, never the less, good luck! 

 

 

[AlphaBear]

For those who want to know what power you get from using Abbey Ultra Predator gas (the one that comes in a red can) see the attached pic. I did some testing using 0.3 Geoffs and 0.2 Excels at a temperature of 20c (I do believe). The left side shows a virgin G&P bolt carrier group. On the right is the standard Marui bolt. The max figure for the G&P bolt was 387fps!! With the Marui bolt it was 329fps on 0.2s. Interesting results eh? The mag was filled up each time fresh of course which explains the initial high power.

View attachment 68047

 

[gunbod007]

So I noticed the nozzle on my Marui bolt had some rotation to it. Gave it a bit of a nudge and felt like this was a lot of play Is this normal or could this cause a problem for the seal with the magazine.
So far most of the things I have worried about on this forum have actually not been a big deal and I hope this isn't either, but just checking as I can't find a video that clearly shows how much play there could be.