Which battery for an ASG evo scorpion?

[pgstroud]

Hi People

I've a new ASG CZ Scorpion EVO 3 A1 2020 Revision on the way from patrolbase. They recommend a 7.4v or a 9.9v Life. Does it make a difference? I'm not to bother about RPS but other factors could swing it.

And in the future does anyone know how I might convert it to take 11.1v. I assume a new spring but any info would be helpful

Cheers!

 

[Leo Greer]

Hi People

I've a new ASG CZ Scorpion EVO 3 A1 2020 Revision on the way from patrolbase. They recommend a 7.4v or a 9.9v Life. Does it make a difference? I'm not to bother about RPS but other factors could swing it.

And in the future does anyone know how I might convert it to take 11.1v. I assume a new spring but any info would be helpful

Cheers!

I would recommend a 7.4v LiPo, personally, as LiPo is currently the best chemistry for airsoft due to the combination of burst amps, stability, power to weight, and price.

LiFe are fine, but will be larger, with less burst discharge (what you need for airsoft electrical draw).

You don’t have to do anything to “convert” it to 11.1v. It’ll run on 11.1v right now. The caveats are the consequences. Depending on the quality of your trigger contacts, an 11.1v may burn them out. Good contacts will easily last 150K+ cycles, but we all know how allergic airsoft and quality are to each other. This can be fixed with some basic dielectric grease on the trigger contacts, or by a MOSFET chip wired into the contacts. Those units you plug in don’t actually protect anything,

Secondly, an 11.1v may give you PME, which is where your gears are moving too fast for your piston, causing heavy wear or critical failure. To test, listen for hitching in the cycle when using 11.1v, and chrono test for any drops in FPS using full auto. This can be fixed by, as you mentioned, a stronger spring. You can then shorten the barrel or short stroke to reduce FPS to correct levels.

 

[pgstroud]

I would recommend a 7.4v LiPo, personally, as LiPo is currently the best chemistry for airsoft due to the combination of burst amps, stability, power to weight, and price.

LiFe are fine, but will be larger, with less burst discharge (what you need for airsoft electrical draw).

You don’t have to do anything to “convert” it to 11.1v. It’ll run on 11.1v right now. The caveats are the consequences. Depending on the quality of your trigger contacts, an 11.1v may burn them out. Good contacts will easily last 150K+ cycles, but we all know how allergic airsoft and quality are to each other. This can be fixed with some basic dielectric grease on the trigger contacts, or by a MOSFET chip wired into the contacts. Those units you plug in don’t actually protect anything,

Secondly, an 11.1v may give you PME, which is where your gears are moving too fast for your piston, causing heavy wear or critical failure. To test, listen for hitching in the cycle when using 11.1v, and chrono test for any drops in FPS using full auto. This can be fixed by, as you mentioned, a stronger spring. You can then shorten the barrel or short stroke to reduce FPS to correct levels.

Thanks so much mate. I'll see how to performs on the 7.4 before going down the 11.1v route - which sounds a bit tricky.