TR16 CRW possible upgrades

[Rogers84]

Hi guys I have an old TR16 CRW not used for 5 years I brought it as a side arm for when I was sniping. From memory it was very loud because of the blowback, I want to upgrade it to add range and ROF, but new to the tech side of things and because of the break in airsofting not sure what’s new. Don’t want to spend a fortune as I may decide I don’t like the tech side

any assistance is greatly appreciated

i have brought a 

Maple Leaf Macaron AEG Hop up rubber 60 degree. (Yellow)
Airsoft Pro Silicone rubber omega shape HopUp nub
NineBall 6.03mm Long Inner Barrel for Marui AEP G18C & M93R (168mm) it’s the only one I could find that’s the same barrel length

View attachment 111350

 

[Speedbird_666]

Welcome to the forums. You don't state where you are based - so I'll assume UK.

My notes:

- Don't replace the barrel yet (I don't think the AEP barrel will work anyway). The TopTech stock barrel is decent enough - just give it a good clean for now.

- Start with replacing the hop rubber and nub and see how it performs: https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/hop-up-buckings-nubs/maple-leaf-macaron-60-nub

- This gun uses the older-style G&G hop unit, which isn't bad, just a bit outdated - maybe later replace it later with a ZCI Plastic rotary unit (when back in stock):  https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/hop-up-chambers/zci-rotary-hopup-chamber-plastic-m4

- Chrongraph your gun before and after any upgrades. There's a good chance that as-is, your gun will struggle to hit 300fps (TopTechs of this era were 1j/328fps from the factory to UK shores but often were below that).

- Consider a longer inner barrel/mock suppressor if you need to get the FPS up - the very short barrel means that the gun is over-volumised (hence the noise) which means a good deal of air is wasted in the firing cycle. A longer barrel will make use of that extra air and provide additional FPS as a result.

None of the above involves opening the gearbox. If the gun shoots well enough after the above, then happy days.

Given that the gun hasn't been used in some time, here are some other things to consider next if you are having any performance problems:

- If you are confident on opening the gearbox - clean and relube, particularly the compression parts (Piston, Piston Head, Cylinder and Cylinder head etc.)

- Replace the piston and cylinder head O-rings

- Important Inspect the gearbox casing for any cracks around the front/Blowback port - Toptechs are notorious for this (example below). You can do this to some extent without taking the gearbox out of the lower receiver:

View attachment 111353

- Inspect the gears for any wear/damage

- Inspect the piston rack for any damage to the teeth (G&G Pistons aren't great)

I'm sure others will chime in shortly, but my advice is to keep it simple (and cheap) to start with.

 

[Rogers84]

Many thanks Speedbird_666, I was looking at the silent piston heads think would they reduce the noise, but noticed the cylinders started at much longer barrel lengths that what I have, I will start with the hop rubber and nub and see what it does

 

[Leo Greer]

Silent piston heads are a misnomer--they're really just as loud as regular ones.

 

[Speedbird_666]

I was looking at the silent piston heads think would they reduce the noise

Short barrel AEGs are notoriously noisy things and a silent piston head will do approximately zero to ameliorate that. The noise you hear is excess air from an over-volumised cylinder compared to barrel length. You could replace the cylinder, but that may restrict your options should you wish to lengthen the barrel later. @ak2m4 Sells a ZCI 1/2 Cylinder that would be suitable for your stock inner barrel length.

G&G stock piston heads are ok, not necessary the hardest-wearing plastic, but it it isn't broken there's not much point in replacing it. 

 

[Colin Allen]

Short barrel AEGs are notoriously noisy things and a silent piston head will do approximately zero to ameliorate that. The noise you hear is excess air from an over-volumised cylinder compared to barrel length. You could replace the cylinder, but that may restrict your options should you wish to lengthen the barrel later. @ak2m4 Sells a ZCI 1/2 Cylinder that would be suitable for your stock inner barrel length.

G&G stock piston heads are ok, not necessary the hardest-wearing plastic, but it it isn't broken there's not much point in replacing it. 

Just to support what Speedbird has said, I have a home built micro M4 with a shorter barrel than yours and a 1/2 cylinder with an extended hole making it about a 40% cylinder; it shoots at about 1.03J, has good range and is quiet.

I would choose AK2M4’s red omega nub over the Airsoft Pro one.

 

[ak2m4]

forget the silent cylinder head / piston head combo, they're just too much trouble for little gain.  The rubber is notoriously difficult to get to stick to the aluminium - I no longer sell them.

 

[gavinkempsell]

Just shout BANG with each pull of the trigger, you'll eventually get used to the slight wistle from the gnu.

 

[Rogers84]

Welcome to the forums. You don't state where you are based - so I'll assume UK.

My notes:

- Don't replace the barrel yet (I don't think the AEP barrel will work anyway). The TopTech stock barrel is decent enough - just give it a good clean for now.

- Start with replacing the hop rubber and nub and see how it performs: https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/hop-up-buckings-nubs/maple-leaf-macaron-60-nub

- This gun uses the older-style G&G hop unit, which isn't bad, just a bit outdated - maybe later replace it later with a ZCI Plastic rotary unit (when back in stock):  https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/hop-up-chambers/zci-rotary-hopup-chamber-plastic-m4

- Chrongraph your gun before and after any upgrades. There's a good chance that as-is, your gun will struggle to hit 300fps (TopTechs of this era were 1j/328fps from the factory to UK shores but often were below that).

- Consider a longer inner barrel/mock suppressor if you need to get the FPS up - the very short barrel means that the gun is over-volumised (hence the noise) which means a good deal of air is wasted in the firing cycle. A longer barrel will make use of that extra air and provide additional FPS as a result.

None of the above involves opening the gearbox. If the gun shoots well enough after the above, then happy days.

Given that the gun hasn't been used in some time, here are some other things to consider next if you are having any performance problems:

- If you are confident on opening the gearbox - clean and relube, particularly the compression parts (Piston, Piston Head, Cylinder and Cylinder head etc.)

- Replace the piston and cylinder head O-rings

- Important Inspect the gearbox casing for any cracks around the front/Blowback port - Toptechs are notorious for this (example below). You can do this to some extent without taking the gearbox out of the lower receiver:

View attachment 111353

- Inspect the gears for any wear/damage

- Inspect the piston rack for any damage to the teeth (G&G Pistons aren't great)

I'm sure others will chime in shortly, but my advice is to keep it simple (and cheap) to start with.

I’ve been researching and liking the idea of changing the inner barrel with a mock suppressor, would I need to try and stabilise the part inside the suppressor or just screw on and leave?

 

[Leo Greer]

I’ve been researching and liking the idea of changing the inner barrel with a mock suppressor, would I need to try and stabilise the part inside the suppressor or just screw on and leave?

Stabilizing inside the suppressor isn't always necessary, but its always good for accuracy.

 

[Rogers84]

Stabilizing inside the suppressor isn't always necessary, but its always good for accuracy.

Silly question but any recommendation on mock suppressor I’ve looked around and some seem to just have foam and a spring in, how would you I go about stabilising 

Thanks in advance

 

[Leo Greer]

Silly question but any recommendation on mock suppressor I’ve looked around and some seem to just have foam and a spring in, how would you I go about stabilising 

Thanks in advance

I can't really recommend any brands or models--what's available is dependent on your country, and what you have locally. 

You can pretty much stabilize any way you want. You just need to create a solid interface between the inner barrel and the solid suppressor. I've done it with tape around the inner barrel, a rubber fitting, and some other DIY methods.

I should also mention, you can more easily stabilize the inner barrel within the outer barrel using scotch tape or Teflon tape, which can save you some trouble when stabilizing inside the suppressor.

 

[Rogers84]

I’ve heard that G&G MOSFET are not great so just ordered a Perun is it an easy fit, anyone got pics or a video of how to install?

View attachment 111691

 

[Colin Allen]

https://perunairsoft.pl/mosfetmanual.pdf

However, i would probably have gone for something like the Perun AB++; it gives you active braking, burst control and precocking and is installed in the same way.

 

[Rogers84]

https://perunairsoft.pl/mosfetmanual.pdf

However, i would probably have gone for something like the Perun AB++; it gives you active braking, burst control and precocking and is installed in the same way.

Many thanks any assistance on where to put it the battery goes in the the second mag, sorry if it’s stupid question 1st time upgrading 

View attachment 111716

View attachment 111717

 

[Colin Allen]

Many thanks any assistance on where to put it the battery goes in the the second mag, sorry if it’s stupid question 1st time upgrading 

View attachment 111716

View attachment 111717

As shown in the manual, you need to connect both red wires (the one to the battery and the one to the motor) to the same terminal on the trigger unit, with the signal wire going to the other terminal.  It is probably best to put the mosfet in the dummy mag, soldering the wires to it as shown in the manual.

 

[Rogers84]

Hi guys, still waiting on my chrono to arrive, got xx high torque 22TPA motor, 13:1 gears, xt14 tooth piston, zci 3/4 cylinder, 285mm zci 6.02 tightbore , running a stock G&G spring but just reading up on PME would you recommend upgrading the spring site limit is 350fps.

I know is difficult to comment not knowing what it’s fps is at present but wondering if it’s worth getting a spring on standby

any advice greatly appreciated 

 

[Leo Greer]

If it's well-built, you should be okay. I've put together similar 1J setups that avoided PME. However, that's not to say you won't have it nonetheless. The current FPS is really the piece of info you need. If the spring is closer to 350, I'd try it out and see. If not, you may need something stronger.

 

[Rogers84]

If it's well-built, you should be okay. I've put together similar 1J setups that avoided PME. However, that's not to say you won't have it nonetheless. The current FPS is really the piece of info you need. If the spring is closer to 350, I'd try it out and see. If not, you may need something stronger.

Many thanks probably a stupid question but if I just use it on semi auto when the chrono arrives would that avoid any damage of PME and if it’s close to 350 then I can try on fully auto?

 

[Leo Greer]

Semi auto can sometimes help you avoid PME, but it's always good to chrono and make sure, because semi-auto can still damage your gun if the gears overspin.