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This a good build?

Josh95 said:
I would say buy a 750w PSU, I had a 500W PSU and it blew up on my gaming PC.
Click to expand...

Totally depends on the quality of the PSU and the current on the 12v rail for the GPU. A good quality 500W PSU may well work where a cheap one would just blow up. Personally I'm a fan of the Corsair PSUs but I've also had good experiences with Seasonic.

 
The rating of wattage on a PSU is how much it can deliver not how much it deliverers all the time.

Thus there is no real disadvantage about having a few 100 more W. To be safe personally I would go for a 750W and also if he wants to upgrade certain components in the future like a more powerful GPU then obviously it will be able to produce the power to advocate for that increase in power usage.

 
His power supply is fine...

More the the point he already has it.

 
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[SIZE=10.5pt]I was going to jump in before he got his parts as I would change a few pieces of it but unfortunately I was extremly busy with course work...But I would like to clear up the crazy amount of miss information in this thread to do with his PSU. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]People who are saying he needs a higher wattage PSU do not know what they are talking about. 500watts is MORE than enough for what he has and also provides plenty of room for overclocking. there is a reason PSU's come with 80+ Bronze,sliver,gold, platinum and titanium rating. It certifies products that have more than 80% energy efficiency at 20%, 50% and 100% of rated load ( with platinum and titanium it is more like 90%) to get the best out of your power supply you must have it use most of its available amount of wattage it is able to deliver to the components for peak levels of efficiency other wise you are wasting power and negating the benefits you get from having a more effient PSU. Also if your PSU blew up its most likely becuse it was crap. only buy powersupplys from good brands and dont cheap out on them, becuse if it goes most likely everything else is gone to. Brands like Seasonic, Corsair (OEM by Seasonic) OCZ, ,XFX (Again OEM by Seasonic) Antec, Silverstone etc. Just becuse you have a higher wattage PSU doesnt mean it is better. Most high quality PSU's the fans dont even spin untill a certain wattage threshold is reached. or may not even have a fan at all. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]And welcome to the PC gaming Master Race Zak. May your tempatures be low and your overclocks forever stable. :) [/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt](Edit) If you want to test it Zak you can use your Mobo Box as a test bench. just make sure its not on the carpet or something like that and ground yourself by touching something metal, Like a powersupply connect to the wall. just means you can test things with out having to take it out of the case which is a pain in the ass at times if it doesnt work.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt](Double Edit) I forgot the say this. Am not sure if you know but I will mention it anyway. just make sure you enable the XMP Profile on your Mobo so your RAM will run at 1600Mhz. On page 36 of your manual it tells you how to do it. If you are stuck just do some googleing on enableing XMP on your motherboard.[/SIZE]

 
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Undieing_Lust said:
[SIZE=10.5pt]I was going to jump in before he got his parts as I would change a few pieces of it but unfortunately I was extremly busy with course work...But I would like to clear up the crazy amount of miss information in this thread to do with his PSU. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]People who are saying he needs a higher wattage PSU do not know what they are talking about. 500watts is MORE than enough for what he has and also provides plenty of room for overclocking. there is a reason PSU's come with 80+ Bronze,sliver,gold, platinum and titanium rating. It certifies products that have more than 80% energy efficiency at 20%, 50% and 100% of rated load ( with platinum and titanium it is more like 90%) to get the best out of your power supply you must have it use most of its available amount of wattage it is able to deliver to the components for peak levels of efficiency other wise you are wasting power and negating the benefits you get from having a more effient PSU. Also if your PSU blew up its most likely becuse it was crap. only buy powersupplys from good brands and dont cheap out on them, becuse if it goes most likely everything else is gone to. Brands like Seasonic, Corsair (OEM by Seasonic) OCZ, ,XFX (Again OEM by Seasonic) Antec, Silverstone etc. Just becuse you have a higher wattage PSU doesnt mean it is better. Most high quality PSU's the fans dont even spin untill a certain wattage threshold is reached. or may not even have a fan at all. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]And welcome to the PC gaming Master Race Zak. May your tempatures be low and your overclocks forever stable. :) [/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt](Edit) If you want to test it Zak you can use your Mobo Box as a test bench. just make sure its not on the carpet or something like that and ground yourself by touching something metal, Like a powersupply connect to the wall. just means you can test things with out having to take it out of the case which is a pain in the ass at times if it doesnt work.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt](Double Edit) I forgot the say this. Am not sure if you know but I will mention it anyway. just make sure you enable the XMP Profile on your Mobo so your RAM will run at 1600Mhz. On page 36 of your manual it tells you how to do it. If you are stuck just do some googleing on enableing XMP on your motherboard.[/SIZE]
Click to expand...
Its an AMD build. XMP only applies to Intel chipsets, his should just read the RAM at 1600 and be done with it. If not it would be a quick job to overclock it manually in the BIOS.

 
BBrotherwood said:
Its an AMD build. XMP only applies to Intel chipsets, his should just read the RAM at 1600 and be done with it. If not it would be a quick job to overclock it manually in the A
Click to expand...
AMD have their own version of XMP called AMP (AMD Memory Profile.) But its still called XMP in BIOS. And yes you are right if it doesnt work Zak can easily OC. simply change the speed to 1600 and also set the voltage and CAS timings manually.

 
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Ah, I did not know that was a thing with the later BIOS. I used the same Processor as Zak is using and an older 970x chipset so it was plug and play as far as memory was concerned.

 
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Core Temp.

Looks beasty :)

Cable management is a b****, is there no space behind the motherboard tray to run your psu and front header cables through?

 
There's a small gap to put wires behind but it's so small that most are too thick to be able to go through it as they are bundled together. There is a gap above where the HDD's go, but if I do that, i block the front fan...

 
Glad that your rig is up and runing Zak. But damn dude...Cable management, Could you not try to curl them up and zip tie them out of the way towards the bottom of the case?

For reading temp you can use software like:

CPU - Core Temp, CPU-Z and also Speecy which is a complete system scaner for temps

GPU - MSI Afterburner, ASUS GPU Tweak, EVGA Precision X

Also you will need to stress test your system if you overclock

CPU - Prime 95

GPU - Heaven, MSI Kombuster

Fan Speed:

For controling your fan speed you have 3 options

Software: I like to use speedfan becuse it gives you the most control over your fans. how fast they are running and lets you set profiles that ramp up with your temps. Only downside is that you will need to see if it supported by your mobo. Speedfan also requires that your fans are pluged in via 3-4pin headers on your mobo.

Bios: It will offer you the ability to control via Voltage and PWM. Voltage is the power that goes to the fan. Higher voltage, higher RPM. Lower voltage, lower RPM, If its to high you will do damage, to low and they wont spin. PWM sends pulses to the fans to make them spin, for the most part it depends on the fan header. 3pin is best done via voltage, 4pin PWM ( Some times PWN can be flaky and not want to work right.) The second problem with controling fans via the BIOS is that is usally only works with the CPU fan and main system fan (Depending how many headers you have on your MOBO)

Fan Controller: You power it via Molex and allows you to control every fan in your system. (Best to leave you CPU Fan be controled via BIOS)

Hope this helps.

 
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My mobo had a couple of really annoyingly placed headers for a normal mid tower case as there was no room for me to run the cables round the back. It would not be an issue with a bigger case. I had to run a some across the motherboard. Hope the picture gives you some ideas to neaten up yours.

View attachment 13853

 
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