be careful with ROF crap - we have all seen the results of:
"Let's try it with this - OOOhhh crap that don't sound good"
General rule of thumb(s)
Most guns out of box shoot at about 13rps on a good 7.4v or 8.4v
(some a little less some like ICS seem a touch faster than average G&G speed)
Most on here will run in about the 20's....
(well I would of thought imho that is about a comfortable tweak onperformance)
Some just under say 18rps, some a bit more high twenties getting into thirties
Simply reasoning once you get into low/mid twenties the gun starts to overspin (piston appearing in rear window)
Or with lower springs she starts to double fire sometimes on semi
THIS IS THE GUN TALKING TO YOU - YOU ARE STARTING TO TAKE THE PI$$ !!!
Proceed at your own risk - the faster you go the more you risk stripping pistons, faster wear & stuff burning out etc....
Getting a gun to run faster depends how much faster you wish to go - hence 20's is a wise limit to aim for
here is a very good guide....
http://www.airsoftsociety.com/forums/f10/legacys-guide-building-high-speed-aeg-87504/
BUT BUT BUT BUT BUT
IT IS 'MERICAN - they use higher limits with higher springs usually 400fps out of box is fine
So they keep m120 springs and can run at up to 30rps without to much modding
WE CAN'T - we use m100's so hence our limits without more modding is a max of 25rps
With a lower spring like m85/90 you should be going easy on 20rps max
SO PLEASE DO NOT LOOK AT LEGACY's GUIDE AND TAKE AS 101% GOSPEL !!!!
I posted it not as a UK speed guide but more to demonstrate that increasing response/rof does require some work
(it is not as many of us thought a case of whacking up the juice or shoving in faster motors etc....)
Yes you can tweak it a bit but their are limits to how far you can push $hit in its present state before mods required
TBH - if you bought a CM007 and using it for CQB with lower limits on a 363mm barrel
EDIT - f*ck me it is 390mm barrel !!!
http://www.taiwangun.com/en/electric/cm-007-full-metal-p-j
(probably have option to SS 2 teeth max)
Think I might have bought a slightly shorter barrel gun say 275-300mm & go for SS 3 or maybe 4 but 3 is my limit
The ShortStroking crap is really for when you wish to push stuff probably beyond the margins of moderation
And like all tweaking/modding it never is quite so straight forward sometimes
Personally - think you could/should aim for 20's, replace tamiya with deans etc.....
see how you go on moderate juice for now....
IF or rather WHEN it busts - THEN replace bits n bobs with better/faster stuff doing the tweaking required etc.....
Silly ROF's are just dick's trying to overcompensate for their lack of skill (usually)
And YES THAT INCLUDES ME !!!!
I'm so $hit I really do need all the help/response I can get from my toy gun
Still get taken out by a 12 year old with a JBBG
OR
A bada$$ player who switches to his secondary and removes me from game with a quick pop pop
(actually it doesn't have to be a really good player - this is quite a regular thing)
Honestly - it isn't the gun but the player etc...
sure a good snappy gun helps but a snappy high rof toy gun is not the be all & end all we all think
If you are really crap with little hope of improvement like moi then ok you need all the help you can get
If you think you are getting better each time then perhaps leave the gun alone for a while & enjoy it as is
Just get out there and use it, learn how to be a better player than worry too much how fast your gun shoots
EDIT - minor update but kind of important....
There are numerous mistakes new owners can make
well yeah there is learning hop adjustment, safety common sense, not to fit kitchen sink on toy gun
BUT 2 common mistakes to wreck guns new owners can make....
Taking the pi$$ as explained but also if/when you get a jam in barrel...
We have all seen/done it - flick to full auto and try to clear the jam....
Great way to shred pistons !!!!
The gun is jammed - use the rod if she doesn't clear dry firing on SEMI !!!
Trying to clear a jammed gun on auto is asking for trouble
The jam is blocking the air escaping so the piston won't release and return at max speed
So the piston is returning slower and thus the risk of PE/PME piston stripping greatly increases
In other words - you can learn the hard way and try to clear the jam on auto but wreck your piston
Or you can save yourself going home with a wrecked gun by using the jam/cleaning rod
The other mistake is trigger discipline - obviously safety stuff but also when firing
Sometimes releasing the trigger too early on semi it gets stuck in a dead zone
This seems to happen more on slower guns that take a bit longer to cycle completely
Slightly snappier guns that complete the cycle a bit quicker suffer less
(though it is often down to operator knowing their gun)
It can also happen going from full auto to semi - the Cut Off Lever is slightly raised
and stuck between going into semi (COL under trigger trolley)
or not just high enough for COL to slip above trolley
DO NOT FORCE THE TRIGGER - YOU JUST BUST/WEAR OUT THE TRIGGER TROLLEY
flick to auto, quick burst and she should fire properly again
If you force the trigger in this "dead zone" you will promote much quicker wear on trolley
(you will shorten the lifespan of the trigger/trolley - so don't force the gun to fire)
There are probably a number of other examples but those 2 are quite common mistakes
These are the sort of things you learn and many many other important things too
Stuff like that & learning to be a better player are way more important than a few extra rps
soz for long waffle (again)
