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Thank for the info and Well the site I play it is woodland but I want it for primarily a backup and when I play at a new cqb opening close to me and my budget is stuck at a max of 250 but I’d rather go cheaperHmmm, never seen a “good” P90 out of the box, I know TM do one, but I have only ever heard people complain about theirs. I love a good MP5, I have a TM SD6, lovely little gun, however it feels too plasticy to me, apparently ICS do a nice feeling and good performing MP5, however I have never seen or used one.
I have had a MP7 and MP9 GBB, and I despised both of them, gas efficiency is pathetic, reliability was non existant(I had the WE- however the TM has a lot of fans).
I like the like of the scorpion, it’s probably my next gun to get, but I haven’t used one to comment any further.
Help us a little further with a budget? Of the type of site you play at?
Haha ye I do like the look of an mp5 mainly because of the tacticool look ? and I never thought getting a older era weapon I’ll have to look into those. Thankspersonally i'd go old school and go for the mp5, but then that's because i love the mp5 and the p90 is a bit close to the f2000![]()
wouldnt get the sd version, but go for the fc3 look with a big ass can on the front.
or the same thing but with an aksu (wooden furniture obviously)
but then a 1928 thompson with obligatory drum mag.... or a ppsh41.....
yeah i should stop, you're not going to get any sensible advice on this from me![]()
Thank for the info and Well the site I play it is woodland but I want it for primarily a backup and when I play at a new cqb opening close to me and my budget is stuck at a max of 250 but I’d rather go cheaper
Haha ye I do like the look of an mp5 mainly because of the tacticool look ? and I never thought getting a older era weapon I’ll have to look into those. Thanks
While I do like the ppsh or Thomson I’m one of them mtp mofos and I don’t think I could jury rig one to match my load out So I’ll most likely end up going for a modernish one I personally have never used drum or big ammo I’m more a mid or low cap the winding of the mag really irritates mewell the thing i'd say is in favour of the likes of a ppsh or thompson is it's perfectly acceptable to run a drum mag, so there might be some cost savings there (well, if you're like me and insist on running midcaps in everything unless a drum is appropriate).
the mp5/aksu would be pretty versatile as you've got a decent range of time periods to pick a look from right up to the current day, if that's your thing.
While I do like the ppsh or Thomson I’m one of them mtp mofos and I don’t think I could jury rig one to match my load out So I’ll most likely end up going for a modernish one I personally have never used drum or big ammo I’m more a mid or low cap the winding of the mag really irritates me
Haha ye true I think it’s just my ocd tbhsame as me then (minus the mtp)
it's really up to you, personally i don't really care about being totally period correct, but if that bothers you then as you say something a bit more modern might be what you need.
one of the guys round here regularly goes with a 1928 and dpm, so mtp wouldn't be too much more of a crime.
What’s your take on the overall reliability of it, I quite like the look of one but I have no Idea the durability of aps/JG or v3 GB In general, the last thing I want is for it full apart on me ?Aug commando.
Standard V3 gearbox, spares easy to get. Nice and short, but with the advantage of having a full length inner barrel since it's a bullpup.
Mags are cheap if you go to Poland. And have good compatibility regardless of branding. 80, 110, 170 rnd midcaps are available.
Space for a small mosfet, and you don't have to open the gearbox to add a fet since it's externally wired.
A few companies produce the variant atm.
TM do a high cycle that is out of budget.
ASG do a rebrand with added trades of the APS model.
APS do a non traded version.
GFC (gunfire corp) do a variant of the APS as well.
https://gunfire.pl/product-eng-1152216089-GFG54-carbine-replica-tan.html
JG also make one now and Sow wolf are rebranding it for GFC. I'm not sure what these are like internally.
https://gunfire.pl/product-eng-1152215959-SW-020T-Carbine-Replica-Tan.html
Out of the box both models should have no problems, The JG piston and cylinder heads are better than APS, and JG has a nicer trigger, JG also use plastic bushings. APS in contrast have metal bearings, And a slightly sloppier trigger (it uses a sprung bar rather than ball dendents on JG). And a single o-ring cylinder head. Both models have QC springs, and exactly the same hop/inner barrels. The bodies are slightly different with APS having a raised area on the pistol grip and body with extra texture, JG use an all over texture with no raised areas.
Out of the box no. It's very loud to the shooter and normal to everyone else.does the aug have the same thing going on as the f2000- really loud to the user but apparently silent to everyone else?
That happens when you split the gun with a full mag. Normally you don't touch the body pin. He was probably showing off the field strip simplicity and forgot the mag was in. To clear the BB's you fully separate the upper, Invert the body and shake it. It's the same when you get BB's in the body through mag changes. You remove the mag, split the body invert and shake. Some 2mm foam double sided taped into the magwell goes a long way to stopping this. The same foam double sided taped into the body also helps deaden the gun noise. It's basic tweaks to get the gun perfect. The foam I've been using is thin roll out workshop mat I think it cost me £10 for a 3m roll, And I have most of the roll left.my only experience with working on aug's is a chap at a local site managed to somehow get the body pin loose inside the body and the whole thing had filled with bb's, but it wasnt a massively big issue to fix.
So the aug a3 is good then out curriosity what is it like performance wise stock, you know rps and range and the likeOut of the box no. It's very loud to the shooter and normal to everyone else.
Once you start to add the silent upgrades that changes, you can get the gun almost silent to everyone else but normal sounding to the shooter. Both my guns are hard to detect on the field. My A3 for instance can be shot in the house, and my missus sat downstairs has no idea. Because the noise it makes isn't sharp it's also hard to pinpoint. Often on the field people fail to find me in a fire fight as everyone else's gun is distracting them, Unless they spot me the sound my gun makes isn't going to give me away.
That happens when you split the gun with a full mag. Normally you don't touch the body pin. He was probably showing off the field strip simplicity and forgot the mag was in. To clear the BB's you fully separate the upper, Invert the body and shake it. It's the same when you get BB's in the body through mag changes. You remove the mag, split the body invert and shake. Some 2mm foam double sided taped into the magwell goes a long way to stopping this. The same foam double sided taped into the body also helps deaden the gun noise. It's basic tweaks to get the gun perfect. The foam I've been using is thin roll out workshop mat I think it cost me £10 for a 3m roll, And I have most of the roll left.
The a3 is probably the worst of all the variants TBF. It's front heavy and doesn't feel as nimble as the other models.So the aug a3 is good then out curriosity what is it like performance wise stock, you know rps and range and the like
Thank you for the info mate, it’s been a massive helpThe a3 is probably the worst of all the variants TBF. It's front heavy and doesn't feel as nimble as the other models.
Internally all augs are pretty much identical. They all have the same body, gearbox, and hop. TM tweak it a little for the high cycle but it's tweaks not a redesign.
The uppers and inner barrels are the only major differences.
A1's have a 509mm inner barrel and a built in scope with no RIS options.
A2's have a 509mm inner barrel and a single rail
A3's have the full heavy weight RIS
Para's are cut down A1 and A2 variants, generally 320mm inner barrels
Commando are cut down, 320mm inner, and the upper is a different design with a better foregrip than the A1/A2 and without the weight of the A3. The commando is the best variant IMHO. It has the most features, and the best layout without excess weight.
My A3 stock was shooting 18rps with the JG motor, 22 rps with the SHS high speed, 25rps on the asg35K. All gears are stock 18:1.
The APS stock shoots at 15rps.
All with 7.4 30c batteries.
Range is user dependant, Out of the box both of my guns were capable and didn't feel outraged on open field play. The hop is well respected and will lift a 0.28g at 350fps without problems. The CNC hop i got is actually worthless as the stock hop is just as capable, But I needed to see that so I got the CNC unit anyway.
Out of the box no. It's very loud to the shooter and normal to everyone else.
Once you start to add the silent upgrades that changes, you can get the gun almost silent to everyone else but normal sounding to the shooter. Both my guns are hard to detect on the field. My A3 for instance can be shot in the house, and my missus sat downstairs has no idea. Because the noise it makes isn't sharp it's also hard to pinpoint. Often on the field people fail to find me in a fire fight as everyone else's gun is distracting them, Unless they spot me the sound my gun makes isn't going to give me away.
That happens when you split the gun with a full mag. Normally you don't touch the body pin. He was probably showing off the field strip simplicity and forgot the mag was in. To clear the BB's you fully separate the upper, Invert the body and shake it. It's the same when you get BB's in the body through mag changes. You remove the mag, split the body invert and shake. Some 2mm foam double sided taped into the magwell goes a long way to stopping this. The same foam double sided taped into the body also helps deaden the gun noise. It's basic tweaks to get the gun perfect. The foam I've been using is thin roll out workshop mat I think it cost me £10 for a 3m roll, And I have most of the roll left.
That might actually be caused by the hop spring. It pushes the hop towards the gearbox, And the secondary effect is to tighten the body pin. If the spring is weak, Hop screws are too long, or the inner barrel has been spaced tightly then it affects the amount of clamping force put on the body pin. It's almost the polar opposite of how an M4 inner barrel and hop are expected to function! It's one of the reasons you can't generalise some aspects of airsoft because things that work on one system cause problems on another!I dont think the chap intentionally split it, he'd had it wrapped in scrim net and the pin had sort of managed to come loose internally.